Building 306 , need your opinion/suggestions

[Slow5.0]

Ok here is a deal
I was going to build 347 using stock 302 block and then put some boost from turbo ,but since 347 and boost will kill stock block quickly i decide to stick with 306 and turbo

Local machine shopw will do machining stock block and local Ford engine bulder will install all parts

Now questions are:
What parts i gonna need to to complete this whole project (main gridle.......,i talkin about bottom end,so top end and fuel parts are left for other thread)

Also should i go with CHP or DSS kit

Boost will be whatever i need to make around 450HP just to keep safe and crack block
Heads i gonna use are mine TFS TW and does anyone knows what CC pistons i need to made 9.0:1 compression with TW heads

Also what crankshaft i should use one that need 50,28 or 0 oz ballance

BTW don't try make me go with aftermarket block because i wanna stick with stock block for some time

Thank you

 

[blksn955.o]

As far as CHP and DSS call them and find out about the comp. with your heads if you want to go with or check out a kit.

I would look at a kit that had rods/pistons only really as the crank seems to handle more power than the block. I am totaly happy with my DSS pro-bullit 306 shortblock and would rec. them. I also have heard GREAT things from and about CHP.

I would aim for 8.5-9:1 comp. and would guess with those heads and 12-15lbs of ter-bo boost would reach that goal with suporting/matched parts.

 

[MattZ281LE]

here is a thumbnail for doing a bottom end.

0 Balance is always preferred. Most kits I see are 28oz imbalanced. If you keep stock throw crank you can probably stay with a 50oz FW and balancer saving some cash (check the balancer for slipage)

Good head bolts or studs. ARP

Good quality Head gasket. SCE....this should be considered now for compression ratio.

Lower end gasket set. Rear Main seal and pan gasket.

Cam bearings/Installed by the machine shop after line bore.

Freeze plugs, the machine shop should pull and install new ones when the clean the clock. Use brass.

Rod/Main bearings. should be STD/STD

Camshaft (unless a carryover)

Good quality timing set.

All your old hardware cleaned and ready to go. Bolts/studs/nuts etc.

You have a few factors regarding comp ratio
1. Head CC
2. Piston comp height
3. Head gasket thickness and diameter
4. Piston dish cc
5. Has the heads or block been milled.

You will have to ask the rotating assembly supplier about the piston specs.

Oil pump

With a main girdle you will probably need an aftermarket oil pan. If you go with a pan from canton/moroso/milodon you will need their pickup also.
Canton has a kit that includes the girdle/pan/PU etc.

I would look into a set of ARP main studs. I think some girdles require them.

 

[Slow5.0]

OK ,what aftermarket oil pan will fit 94-95 5.0 and since i have Convertible that comes with X-brace will any of those fit with X-brace or do i have to remove it ???

 

[mo_dingo]

Do you plan on replacing the crank? If you do, then I would get an internally balanced one which means you have to get a 0oz imbalance balancer. Anything you can do to relieve the stress on the block is a good thing.

If you are keeping the stock crank, you will have to use a 50oz balancer and stock flywheel/DS.

Also keep in mind that if you get an internally balanced crank, you will have to get a 0oz flywheel and a balanced driveshaft.

Since you don't want to go the aftermarket block route, you are saving money; That needs to go to the int. balanced crank and balanced rotating assembly IMO.

Scott

 

[Slow5.0]

Keep 'em coming guys

 

[blksn955.o]

on the main guirdle you can use the older fox pan (its like a 90 or 91 and earlier). The area in the middle of the two humps (were you drain the oil) is diff. on on the "newer" pans and will not fit but the older ones fit.

With the DSS main support the install ins. gave the info needed and I used the older pan on mine and everything cleared.

 

[botlfed306]

I myself used Bennett racing when i built my motor. I had a 306 in my 89 but mine was also a carb with nitrous with a stock block and crank and it went 9.90 and the block was fine when i sold it to a friend since then he has had it for three years running 10.20 without any problems.