building 4.6l 2v any advice?

99Blownstang · Feb 15, 2012

this is my build sheet

teksid aluminum block

nodular iron crank

billet steel h beam rods

manley forged dish pistons 8.94 compression ratio

clevite bearings

copper head gaskets

ARP studs

1999 2v PI heads

stage 1 comp cams duration @.050 226/230 lift 550

comp cam stage 2 springs

2.1l kenne bell 15 psi

42lb injectors

75mm throttle body

90mm mass air

billet cam spacers

msd high output coils

autolite forced induction plugs

bbk shorty headers

mmr high volume oil pan

electric water pump

Im sure i am leaving things out. Do you have any tips? this is my first modular build. how many ponies do you think it will be putting out?

vertigasen · Feb 15, 2012

It doesnt look bad, but I would up the compression. At least back to 9.5:1 or even higher...maybe 10:1. You will be leaving a bunch of power on the table if you dont.

99Blownstang · Feb 16, 2012

well i think im going with all forged rotating assembly from MMR so ill prly go up to 9.5. what kind of horse to the flywheel do you think ill be looking at

vertigasen · Feb 16, 2012

I can see low 5's. The problem is the 2.1. It has several problems that you might have to address to get much more out of it. First, the bypass is in a retarded spot. It is directly over cylinder #7 and can cause some lean conditions. Then, the inlet. It is HORRIBLY inefficient. Lastly, it gets hot, REALLY hot...so you are going to have to watch the IATs after driving for a while.

There is a guy on another site that just did a bunch of upgrades to fix most of these issues. He already had the Turbocooker inlet which helped free up a lot of air. He relocated the the bypass to the rear of the manifold and I want to say I saw some cooling mods.....larger heat exchanger, larger reservoir.....

EDIT** Wait, you said flywheel...when I said low 5's I ment at the wheels. 520-530 is definatly possible (if its a stick).

midnightdriver · Feb 16, 2012

99Blownstang said:
this is my build sheet
teksid aluminum block
nodular iron crank
billet steel h beam rods
manley forged dish pistons 8.94 compression ratio
clevite bearings
copper head gaskets
ARP studs
1999 2v PI heads
stage 1 comp cams duration @.050 226/230 lift 550
comp cam stage 2 springs
2.1l kenne bell 15 psi
42lb injectors
75mm throttle body
90mm mass air
billet cam spacers
msd high output coils
autolite forced induction plugs
bbk shorty headers
mmr high volume oil pan
electric water pump
Im sure i am leaving things out. Do you have any tips? this is my first modular build. how many ponies do you think it will be putting out?

Is this a street car or track car engine, because in this build i see more track then street friendly items. Also get rid of those cams, and get a good blower based cam. N/A cams will give you some power over stock but will bleed off boost due to their design and blower cams will lay down a better power curve.

vertigasen · Feb 16, 2012

What is not exactly street friendly? I would agree with you on the cams, but since they are only stage 1s, they arent going to do much.

04torktech · Feb 16, 2012

Depending on your power output you might need more than a 42lb injector. I would recommend 60#'s. Also in terms of the compression ratio I would do some research on what is an safe amount with a blown motor. 9.5:1 sounds pretty good. And I agree you should definitely go with a blower cam if possible with a longer duration.

midnightdriver · Feb 16, 2012

vertigasen said:
What is not exactly street friendly? I would agree with you on the cams, but since they are only stage 1s, they arent going to do much.

In my book, the electric water pump, kenne bell at 15psi (extreme heat soak and inlet restriction), msd coils (due to reliability) and the low compression which unless your into boost will drive like a dog (9.5ish would be better, when under 16psi). Oh and the copper head gaskets too, the stock style is better for DD.

vertigasen · Feb 16, 2012

The water pump is very street friendly. They are rated for something like 30,000 hours. Sure, years past, they were not street friendly and were consitered a track only part. Not so much anymore. I can point out a few people that have been running them for 2-3 years with 20k+ miles without an issue.

I said in my first post that it was not an ideal setup with the 2.1KB, but with that said, there are fixes for everything. If you do it right, it can be a decent blower to a point.

The MSD coils, to each his own with that. I know people who run them fine, but I wouldnt touch them with a 10 foot pole.

The low compression, yeah, that is definately a no-no. That is too low and 9.5-10 would be ideal. The old school mentality was less comp, more boost. Now days, it is more comp, more boost.

The copper gaskets are ok. I perfer MLS gaskets. I am cutting him a little slack since he said this is his first Modular build.

Wicked65 · Feb 16, 2012

Biggest advise on building a 2v.. Build a 4v..

99Blownstang · Feb 16, 2012

this is a mostly street build. im going with 9.5. where can i find some decent priced blower cams? i really like the kenne bell, if i could sell mine which one do you think i should go with? sorry if i seem a little slow, most the work i have done is on sbc and sbf naturally aspirated

vertigasen · Feb 16, 2012

The best blower cams are from Modular Head Shop. Just talk to Nick McKinney and he will guide you to the right cam for what you want. I will be running a Stage 3 PD Blower cam on my daily driver.

You could easily sell a 2.1 for somewhere around 4k. I sold mine (twice) for that about a year ago.

If you like the positive displacement route, go with a Tork Tech kit and a Whipple. They are 100x more efficient than that 2.1, and a 2.3 would easily support 600rwhp+. I went with Tork Tech and did a 2.9 Whipple. I wanted a little insane daily driver, so I went this route. This is how my engine sits right now.

99Blownstang · Feb 16, 2012

damn that looks good. how much did the whipple run price wise

vertigasen · Feb 17, 2012

The 2.9 was somewhere around 3400, but that is only for the blower. If you add the manifold, it was 5300. I have been seeing a lot of used cobra 2.3 Whipples for sale all over the place lately. Its possible to get the manifold and a 2.3 for less than 4k these days.

99Blownstang · Feb 17, 2012

alright man thanks for the help. keep an eye out for me

99Blownstang · Feb 18, 2012

just took the charger off the 2v i blew up. broke a hole in the block and you can see a rod that broke in half. 13psi=too much for cast internals

99Blownstang · Feb 21, 2012

so im already buyin a forged rotating assembly, so i was thinkin about spendin a few hundred more and doing a 5.0 stroker kit. what are your guys opinions

99Blownstang · Feb 21, 2012

tried uploading a photo of the hole in the block and one of my car but it said it was too big

vertigasen · Feb 21, 2012

99Blownstang said:
tried uploading a photo of the hole in the block and one of my car but it said it was too big

Put it on photobucket then use the IMG link....that way, it doesnt matter the size.

vertigasen · Feb 21, 2012

99Blownstang said:
so im already buyin a forged rotating assembly, so i was thinkin about spendin a few hundred more and doing a 5.0 stroker kit. what are your guys opinions

I am not a fan of the 5.0 stroker. The 4.6 is almost a square engine as it is. Adding stroke can give you a little more torque down low, but it can also cause a lot more wear because the skirt of the piston is going to be coming out of the bottom of the bore. The only time I really like the stroker is in a big bore. That brings the engine back close to being square (same bore as stroke).

building 4.6l 2v any advice?

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