I checked and its all tach welded. its only on the passenger side. my stock sway bar did not hit. The new one is bigger OD.
Maybe you could bend a hanger downward to lift the pipe and muffler upward. I the hopes it would clear it over the bar. I had the stinger cat back on my old 04 gt with eibach bars. Never had a problem. Thers probably some adjustment somewhere in there.
@Dark04GT what cat back exhaust do you have with that phb? I've been told there are clearance issues. Otherwise I'd put one in the mach.
@Dark04GT what cat back exhaust do you have with that phb? I've been told there are clearance issues. Otherwise I'd put one in the mach.
Borla stinger. Had the PHB installed - driver side cat back went back on just fine with plenty of clearance.
Passenger side....... had to drive straight to a muffler shop. Right after the “over the axle” loop the exhaust directed exactly where the PHB goes. The muffler guys laughed but then they were able to custom bend the pipes on the passenger side to put the tail pipe back on. Works perfect.
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wow what a job,
installed today
Front Control arms
Koni Orange Struts and shocks
SR Camber/Caster kit
Power Steering Poly bushings
SVE Bump Steer Kit
Eibach Sport Springs
SR Sway Bars
Poly End Links
My hands are beat to %$^#&
Rear Installed last week
BMR Upper and Lower Control arms
SR Sway Bar
Rear Strut Tower Brace
I still need to get the rear situated. Sway bar hitting the exhaust.
Aluminum drive shaft is in the mail now.
installed today
Front Control arms
Koni Orange Struts and shocks
SR Camber/Caster kit
Power Steering Poly bushings
SVE Bump Steer Kit
Eibach Sport Springs
SR Sway Bars
Poly End Links
My hands are beat to %$^#&
Rear Installed last week
BMR Upper and Lower Control arms
SR Sway Bar
Rear Strut Tower Brace
I still need to get the rear situated. Sway bar hitting the exhaust.
Aluminum drive shaft is in the mail now.
Now that you are done - I’d use the MM alignment recommendations (page 5 has all the discussion):
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC9994v4r8.pdf
I had to be specific with the alignment numbers (the allowable range can be sloppy)
I have mine set for (right around the ford ‘preferred’):
0.5 neg camber
4.0 pos caster
0.25 degrees toe in
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC9994v4r8.pdf
I had to be specific with the alignment numbers (the allowable range can be sloppy)
I have mine set for (right around the ford ‘preferred’):
0.5 neg camber
4.0 pos caster
0.25 degrees toe in
Yep- write down the numbers you want them to set it to and have them print you off what they were able to get it to (it is tough to get it dead on - the numbers should be very close).
This way you know what those settings feel like (in case one day you want to start pushing the envelope towards more of a full race setup). Good settings are essential for good tire wear plus you optimize the alignment for all your components.
This way you know what those settings feel like (in case one day you want to start pushing the envelope towards more of a full race setup). Good settings are essential for good tire wear plus you optimize the alignment for all your components.
Perfect thanks. As for the exhaust hitting the sway bar. What about slotting the bolt holes on the sway bar 1/2 inch so it would move the sway bar away from the exhaust? it would move the bar forward towards the front.
I would redo the exhaust piping before I would make any changes to the sway bar. Any good muffler shop should be able to do it with no more then 1-2 hours of labor. The other option is to get a different brand of sway bar.
For your subframes - definitely go full length. “Regular” length is the old style and you are shorting yourself on connecting the rear with the front. Get those extra inches to fully connect the firewall to the mounting point for the rear lower arms.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-XL-Full-Length-Connectors-C233.aspx
Full lengths are wonderful for lifting your car (probably would of helped with all the suspension work you did). The bare ones will be easier for the installer to weld (I recommend painting them afterwards). The powder coated ones are nice but takes a smidge longer to take that coating off for the welds. Both work great.
For your subframes - definitely go full length. “Regular” length is the old style and you are shorting yourself on connecting the rear with the front. Get those extra inches to fully connect the firewall to the mounting point for the rear lower arms.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-XL-Full-Length-Connectors-C233.aspx
Full lengths are wonderful for lifting your car (probably would of helped with all the suspension work you did). The bare ones will be easier for the installer to weld (I recommend painting them afterwards). The powder coated ones are nice but takes a smidge longer to take that coating off for the welds. Both work great.
Another thought about your exhaust / sway bar issue. The flange that bolts the catback to the mid pipe has a slip fit connection after it. You should be able to loosen the rear tail pipes from the front pipe/muffler assemblies, loosen the band clamp that is behind the mid pipe connection flange and slide the whole muffler assembly forward, toward the front of the car. Then tighten the front band clamp up, readjust the rear tail pipes to fit correctly and tighten everything down again.
I had the same cat back and oversized Eibach sway bars on my 04 GT. There must be a simple answer for this.
I even blew up the picture of the catback to double check that its a slip fit after the flange, on Americanmuscles website. If you look close you can see the grooved end of the front pipe /muffler assembly, where it slides over the flange pipes that bolt to the mid pipe. I don't know how long your pipes have been installed so it may take a little persuasion to get the pipes to shift around but wd40 and mallet ought to do the trick.
Good luck. Keep us updated.
I had the same cat back and oversized Eibach sway bars on my 04 GT. There must be a simple answer for this.
I even blew up the picture of the catback to double check that its a slip fit after the flange, on Americanmuscles website. If you look close you can see the grooved end of the front pipe /muffler assembly, where it slides over the flange pipes that bolt to the mid pipe. I don't know how long your pipes have been installed so it may take a little persuasion to get the pipes to shift around but wd40 and mallet ought to do the trick.
Good luck. Keep us updated.