bumpsteer on 1.5 drop?

Bumpsteer depends on many variables. Ypu can't really put a blanket statement out that says " lower than x inches needs a bump steer kit"

Some guys will need them...some won't.
 
Bumpsteer depends on many variables. Ypu can't really put a blanket statement out that says " lower than x inches needs a bump steer kit"

Some guys will need them...some won't.

+1

So many things ride on how much bump steer you have, you lower your car you WILL have some amount of bumpsteer, how bad though all depends on if you have a 5 lug conversion, front end weight, tire/rim choice, rack type, steering shaft, tie rods blah blah blah, only way to know is have it measured
 
you can make your bumpsteer kit for about 30 bucks or less! I forget how exactly to make it but if you guys are interested I can get the info on it. I measured bumpsteer before with home made kit and professional they work exactly the same. buy a laser pointer and make a little stand for it. buy a little mirror put it on a magnet or something and stick it on the hub. get a decent size peice of cardboard. you shine the laser pointer a on to the mirror and make it hit the paper around the middle with the hub jacked up to load height. mark it on the paper then go down all the way. mark it again. go all the way up and mark it connect the dots you just made and if you have bumpsteer the graph will have a arch to it. the idea is to get the line perfectly straight. adding shims or lowering the tie rod. it has been a while since I have done it but I am pretty sure that is correct.
 
you can make your bumpsteer kit for about 30 bucks or less! I forget how exactly to make it but if you guys are interested I can get the info on it. I measured bumpsteer before with home made kit and professional they work exactly the same. buy a laser pointer and make a little stand for it. buy a little mirror put it on a magnet or something and stick it on the hub. get a decent size peice of cardboard. you shine the laser pointer a on to the mirror and make it hit the paper around the middle with the hub jacked up to load height. mark it on the paper then go down all the way. mark it again. go all the way up and mark it connect the dots you just made and if you have bumpsteer the graph will have a arch to it. the idea is to get the line perfectly straight. adding shims or lowering the tie rod. it has been a while since I have done it but I am pretty sure that is correct.

Huh? the method you described does not make any sense
 
when you have the mirror on the hub and you put the hub through travel if it has bumpsteer the wheel is going to move toe in or out. that in turn is going to change the angle that it shines on the paper. think about it. if you shine a laser pointer at a mirror and tilt left and right(bumpsteer). the place the laser hit on the paper is gonna go left or right. I set up late model, modified, and arca truck like this at school...( I go to school for high performance motorsports.) the reason it will be a arch on the graph is because if you have to when you put the control arm all the way down. this is when it will show the toe. as you lift it back to ride hight the toe should be back to normal then when you lift it passed ride hight the toe sholuld look similiar to what it did when the control arm was below ride hight... If you look around online you prbably can find something referring to this way...companies make kits exactly like this and sell them for over 100 bucks.
 
The instructions that came with my bump steer kit said to put in a couple spacers and lift the control arm, watching that the arm/tie rod are parrallel throughout the range. Add/Remove spacers as needed. I did that and have had no issues (using an Eibach Pro Kit)
 
when you have the mirror on the hub and you put the hub through travel if it has bumpsteer the wheel is going to move toe in or out. that in turn is going to change the angle that it shines on the paper. think about it. if you shine a laser pointer at a mirror and tilt left and right(bumpsteer). the place the laser hit on the paper is gonna go left or right. I set up late model, modified, and arca truck like this at school...( I go to school for high performance motorsports.) the reason it will be a arch on the graph is because if you have to when you put the control arm all the way down. this is when it will show the toe. as you lift it back to ride hight the toe should be back to normal then when you lift it passed ride hight the toe sholuld look similiar to what it did when the control arm was below ride hight... If you look around online you prbably can find something referring to this way...companies make kits exactly like this and sell them for over 100 bucks.
Yeah but where are you placing the piece of cardboard?
 
its like 3 feet or something away from the hub I am not sure if what the distance is or if it even matters. I would think the further away it is the more accurate it will come out. does this method make sense to you?
 
its like 3 feet or something away from the hub I am not sure if what the distance is or if it even matters. I would think the further away it is the more accurate it will come out. does this method make sense to you?

No, where does the laser attach? Seems Like this method wouldn't be consistant to both sides unless you got it 100% the same on both side and every time you set it up
 
No, where does the laser attach? Seems Like this method wouldn't be consistant to both sides unless you got it 100% the same on both side and every time you set it up
this method is accurate and consistent, I was taught this at college. I have a performance suspension book around my home somewhere I will look through it tomorrow and write word for word the set-up. the laser pointer sits on the ground on a stand. once you get a nice straight line up and down on the card board ( by connecting your dots) that shows you that the hub is not toeing in or out.
 
this method is accurate and consistent, I was taught this at college. I have a performance suspension book around my home somewhere I will look through it tomorrow and write word for word the set-up. the laser pointer sits on the ground on a stand. once you get a nice straight line up and down on the card board ( by connecting your dots) that shows you that the hub is not toeing in or out.

Alright well you need to do that then cause the method you're describing wont work consistently, nor will it be accurate when trying to dial it in side by side
 
I understand on your thoughts about it. I am sorry very hectic day...I dont know what I am doing on here:shrug: but I will try look at that book tomorrow
one thing when your jack the hub up and down you can mark it 50 times if you want all you are trying to do is make sure the wheel is going straight up and down. so if the pattern has any arch to it at all there is toe in the bumpsteer. if the line is perfectly straight up and down when you jack the hub up and down you know that when you have 0 toe movement. so once you know that side has zero toe move to the next get zero toe in that hub and your good. you are leaving the other three tires on the car on the ground while you are doing this.
 
All Macpherson strut setups, or modified Macpherson strut setups, have bumpsteer issues. It's all part of how the dynamics of that cheap, light, design work.

Of course, when people talk about some super specialty race cars that have max of ~1" of suspension travel, then going with a light Macpherson strut can have it's benefits.

So, yes, that means that even the stock Fox POS suspension could benefit by a bumpsteer kit. That's one reason why it took Ford ~8+ modifications of the: FCA, k-frame, strut-tower, steering rack location, spindle, etc until they got to the 96+ sn95 setup.

Thankfully, since the GT is a lowered platform (it is not a 4x4 platform like many incorrect people say on the forums), there were things that Ford could do to minimize the bumpsteer (because of the reduced suspension travel).

Yes, there are things that can be done to minimize bumpsteer in a Macpherson setup. But, when push comes to pull, a double wishbone setup is better. :)


Okay, enough of the preaching. :) On the "other site", MFE did a nice thread/write_up of how he does his bumpsteer measurements.

But, since I those links get filtered, and it's still what he did, let's instead just go to the (IMHO) one place and company that so far hasn't decided to screw people by selling cr*p products and spreading pure and total BS and lies.

If people have to think about which company I'm talking about

Just go here: :)
Bumpsteer Gauge [MMT-4] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

Instructions:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/install/pdf/steering/MMTR-2-4-7r2.pdf

MMT-4_LG.webp




Oh yea, as I often say, do not take my word for it. What I said can easily proven or dis-proven. Yes, for a massive ~$200, people can easily post their results and prove that their stock_height or lowered Stang (without any other suspension mods) has no bumpsteer at all! :)