I have not checked my bump steer yet.
Out of curiosity, how do you check bump steer?
When I installed my Eibach pro-kit I just went with offset bushings in the steering rack. Maybe not the best solution but it seems to work fine.
Bumpsteer depends on many variables. Ypu can't really put a blanket statement out that says " lower than x inches needs a bump steer kit"
Some guys will need them...some won't.
you can make your bumpsteer kit for about 30 bucks or less! I forget how exactly to make it but if you guys are interested I can get the info on it. I measured bumpsteer before with home made kit and professional they work exactly the same. buy a laser pointer and make a little stand for it. buy a little mirror put it on a magnet or something and stick it on the hub. get a decent size peice of cardboard. you shine the laser pointer a on to the mirror and make it hit the paper around the middle with the hub jacked up to load height. mark it on the paper then go down all the way. mark it again. go all the way up and mark it connect the dots you just made and if you have bumpsteer the graph will have a arch to it. the idea is to get the line perfectly straight. adding shims or lowering the tie rod. it has been a while since I have done it but I am pretty sure that is correct.
Yeah but where are you placing the piece of cardboard?when you have the mirror on the hub and you put the hub through travel if it has bumpsteer the wheel is going to move toe in or out. that in turn is going to change the angle that it shines on the paper. think about it. if you shine a laser pointer at a mirror and tilt left and right(bumpsteer). the place the laser hit on the paper is gonna go left or right. I set up late model, modified, and arca truck like this at school...( I go to school for high performance motorsports.) the reason it will be a arch on the graph is because if you have to when you put the control arm all the way down. this is when it will show the toe. as you lift it back to ride hight the toe should be back to normal then when you lift it passed ride hight the toe sholuld look similiar to what it did when the control arm was below ride hight... If you look around online you prbably can find something referring to this way...companies make kits exactly like this and sell them for over 100 bucks.
its like 3 feet or something away from the hub I am not sure if what the distance is or if it even matters. I would think the further away it is the more accurate it will come out. does this method make sense to you?
this method is accurate and consistent, I was taught this at college. I have a performance suspension book around my home somewhere I will look through it tomorrow and write word for word the set-up. the laser pointer sits on the ground on a stand. once you get a nice straight line up and down on the card board ( by connecting your dots) that shows you that the hub is not toeing in or out.No, where does the laser attach? Seems Like this method wouldn't be consistant to both sides unless you got it 100% the same on both side and every time you set it up
this method is accurate and consistent, I was taught this at college. I have a performance suspension book around my home somewhere I will look through it tomorrow and write word for word the set-up. the laser pointer sits on the ground on a stand. once you get a nice straight line up and down on the card board ( by connecting your dots) that shows you that the hub is not toeing in or out.
can you explain to me why it will not work accurately.Alright well you need to do that then cause the method you're describing wont work consistently, nor will it be accurate when trying to dial it in side by side
can you explain to me why it will not work accurately.
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