Burn out in Manual

Sick96Stang

New Member
Aug 20, 2004
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Gilbert, Arizona
I feel like a noob for asking this but how do you do a burnout in a stick car? I always thought u held down the clutch with your left foot then turned your right foot sideways and held down the brake and gas. Then hold down the brake and slowly lift up on the clutch and slowly give it gas at the same time while still holding down the brake. Then when you want to stop the burnout u let up on the brake slowly. I tried doing that today and all I did was **** up my clutch. My clutch acts really weird now when trying to take off I cant explain it but somehow I messed it up. It had that really bad clutch smell afterwards but the smell didnt stay around for long.
 
You're the same guy...

You're the same guy that posted pics of the green Mustang parked in the drive-way, after you got back from the track.... :nonono:

I tell you what...because I feel sorry for you, and you remind me a little of Jerry's Kids... I'll give you some pointers. First of all, if you let the clutch out slowly while simultaniously applying brake and gas, you're gonna smoke and galze your clutch disc... All you need to do is rev up the RPM's to above 4500 or 5K and while gently applying just enough brake to keep the car from moving, you dump the clutch. You can adjust how much brake to hold druing the burnout to keep the car from going anywhere, but you only need very little braking... And also, try to keep the rpms around 5K during the rubber-wasting. Don't let the tach bounce off the rev limiter. Well good luck, and if you want to post some pics of the car sitting in the drive-way after the burnouts, please do, but remember to take the center caps off for the pics! :rlaugh:
 
Back2Mustangs said:
You're the same guy that posted pics of the green Mustang parked in the drive-way, after you got back from the track.... :nonono:

I tell you what...because I feel sorry for you, and you remind me a little of Jerry's Kids... I'll give you some pointers. First of all, if you let the clutch out slowly while simultaniously applying brake and gas, you're gonna smoke and galze your clutch disc... All you need to do is rev up the RPM's to above 4500 or 5K and while gently applying just enough brake to keep the car from moving, you dump the clutch. You can adjust how much brake to hold druing the burnout to keep the car from going anywhere, but you only need very little braking... And also, try to keep the rpms around 5K during the rubber-wasting. Don't let the tach bounce off the rev limiter. Well good luck, and if you want to post some pics of the car sitting in the drive-way after the burnouts, please do, but remember to take the center caps off for the pics! :rlaugh:

Well you are just a natural born comedian arent you :shrug: :notnice: I would say thanks for the advice but all the dick head comments you made really didnt make a thank you seem appropriate in this situation.
 
Sick96Stang said:
Well you are just a natural born comedian arent you :shrug: :notnice: I would say thanks for the advice but all the dick head comments you made really didnt make a thank you seem appropriate in this situation.
It does come naturally to me...being a dickhead. :D But follow my advice and you'll be roasting radials like a pro!
 
Back2Mustangs said:
It does come naturally to me...being a dickhead. :D But follow my advice and you'll be roasting radials like a pro!

Hey well at least you know you are a dickhead :rlaugh: :rlaugh: It was some good advice though, that is what I was doing wrong was I was slowly letting up on the clutch and not revving it up nearly high enough. Dont worry after I do my burnout I will take some pics of it while I'm doing it but then I will pull into my driveway take off the center caps and take a picture after I did it just for you. :D

How bad do you think I messed up my clutch? I tried doing it the wrong way two times?
 
a proper burnout at the track should be done in 2nd gear not 1st gear the idea behind this is tire speed will be higher in 2nd than in 1st getting more heat in the tire and less stress on your engine
 
Your clutch is fine. Should get better after a while of driving once the top layer that you fried wears away and things smooth out. Probably took a few (thousand) miles off the life of the clutch but hey, that's life. And at least you won't do it again.

BTW, dude, as cool as it is make sure you understand that dumping your clutch is also not good for it. Not as bad as just slipping it out like before, but definitely not good for the clutch or drivetrain.

And as far as 2nd gear burnouts at the track, that's just for drag radials, not street tires. Although damn they do look sweet.
 
doing smokey burnouts at the track with your street tires is just a waste of time. the more you heat them, the more oily they get causing even more loss of traction. just go around the water box and do a clean off burnout pulling forward for best results. VHT is also not good for street radials. it does not work the same as with slicks and DR's.

second gear burnouts get you much more tire speed at lower RPM's but a stock older model stang with 3.08's or 2.73's will have difficulty unless you dump it really hard.
 
Man a 2nd gear burn seems like it would be hard on the clutch...not sure if my 04 GT would do it on dry pavement LOL.I would just get a line lock and just forget all of the "techniques" to do a proper burnout.Hold the brake, push the button, let off the brake, the nail it.
 
you could do 2nd gear burnouts on dry pavement without water or bleach? i'm sorry but I don't believe it. i tried that once and it smoked my clutch, and my tires were already hot (street tires) and had like no grip. or are you talking about with a line lock?

edit: when i say i don't believe it i mean i am suprised, not that i think you're a liar. or maybe i am not understanding correctly.
 
Back2Mustangs said:
You're the same guy that posted pics of the green Mustang parked in the drive-way, after you got back from the track.... :nonono:

I tell you what...because I feel sorry for you, and you remind me a little of Jerry's Kids... I'll give you some pointers. First of all, if you let the clutch out slowly while simultaniously applying brake and gas, you're gonna smoke and galze your clutch disc... All you need to do is rev up the RPM's to above 4500 or 5K and while gently applying just enough brake to keep the car from moving, you dump the clutch. You can adjust how much brake to hold druing the burnout to keep the car from going anywhere, but you only need very little braking... And also, try to keep the rpms around 5K during the rubber-wasting. Don't let the tach bounce off the rev limiter. Well good luck, and if you want to post some pics of the car sitting in the drive-way after the burnouts, please do, but remember to take the center caps off for the pics! :rlaugh:

Not to critique anything you said here, but why drop the clutch at 4500 rpms or higher? That puts so much stress on your drivetrain. I can easily drop my clutch at 2000 or 2500 rpms and do a nice burnout. Any higher than that really stresses the drivetrain. I will hold my rpms at 2000 or 2500, drop the clutch and as soon as the clutch engages, put the gas pedal almost all the way to the floor while lightly holding the brake with your left foot. This lets the drivetrain engage without a bad "bang" and once the tires start to spin, I usually hold the tach at 2500 or 3k for the burnout. No need to tach it up to 4500 although it does sound cool.

Maybe its just my car, but its not hard to do a burnout while dropping at 2500. Also, most street tires don't get "tacky", but I did a nice burnout the other day (trying to melt my tires so I can buy new ones(they are worn anyways)) , but after I smoked'em up for about 20 seconds, my tires were sticky as ****. You could stick a penny or a dime to them.