Bypass smog pump question

Yank it all off and cap it either at the back of the heads, or at the metal tube that connects to the heads.

No cats, then you don't need the air injector pump.

I second keeping the parts, or offloading them. I've seen that total air setup go for $50-100 or so.
 
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Yank it all off and cap it either at the back of the heads, or at the metal tube that connects to the heads.

No cats, then you don't need the air injector pump.

I second keeping the parts, or offloading them. I've seen that total air setup go for $50-100 or so.

Really, hmmm, I do have my pump in the shed... lol.... anyway, I'm not putting mine back on, plus I have gt40p heads now, so no port on them, and have x-pipe with high flow cats, so also no hookup there... what about the TAB & TAD, I can' leave those off too, and just plug/remove the vac line right? I still will have the EGR valve, and from the diagram that was posted in another thread looks like they share the same vac line? is that black vacume ball thing behind the fender in the wheel well still needed(wasn't sure if that was used just for the tab/tad only and not the EGR)? and will the tab & tad throw the CEL since they will not be there/pluged in? sorry for all the ?, just have been wondering this, but haven't got motor back in yet...
 
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So what all do you need to do in regards to venting the gas tank. Mine is all gone now and the x pipe I just installed already had thy area cut and welded off. I read some where about needing to vent the tank or there is a risk for fire when deleting the smog system?
 
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So what all do you need to do in regards to venting the gas tank. Mine is all gone now and the x pipe I just installed already had thy area cut and welded off. I read some where about needing to vent the tank or there is a risk for fire when deleting the smog system?

that's a separate thing, there should be a charcoal canister on the the inner passside frame rail in the engine compartment... the vent line from the tank runs there...
 
Venting the fuel tank has no connection to the air pump and anytime you have vapors in an enclosed area even the engine compartment becomes a concern.
@jrichker has a thing he posts about the purge canister setup, he will likely post it before I can find it.
 
If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.


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It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?
 
I have an expanded question on this matter. I am looking to delete the smog pump system on my car, but keep the EGR and charcoal stuff. I am switching to long tube headers, off road H pipe, and the smog pump delete idler pulley. Once I remove the pump, and plug the back of the heads, which vacuum lines to I plug? Also, will the car throw any codes, or a CEL ?
 
Yank it all off and cap it either at the back of the heads, or at the metal tube that connects to the heads.

No cats, then you don't need the air injector pump.

I second keeping the parts, or offloading them. I've seen that total air setup go for $50-100 or so.
so the pipe on the back of the heads I can just cap it off at this big round thing going to the smog I'll see if it lets me post a pic and sorry I see it's a old post but this is were im at with being a 1st time owner and my vacuum lines please help me with this and I have a cap on the end to see if that's correct
 

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so the pipe on the back of the heads I can just cap it off at this big round thing going to the smog I'll see if it lets me post a pic and sorry I see it's a old post but this is were im at with being a 1st time owner and my vacuum lines please help me with this and I have a cap on the end to see if that's correct
put a hose clamp on it.
no cats right?