Cable Clutch Kits for T-5: Mustang Steve, Ron Morris, or Modern Driveline?

monk302

Founding Member
Apr 18, 2001
742
2
16
New Jersey
Hey everyone,

I just purchased a 89 GT Trans and Bellhousing so I have a few questions regarding the Cable Clutch Setup.

I saw I have a few options:

MustangSteve:

With this option you have to weld a bracket onto your pedal assembly in order to have it work. This is my one area of concern. How much pressure is put on this bracket. I can weld a little bit but I am not sure I want do something that is so important and will be used constantly. I could have MS weld it on for $99. How many of you are happy with these setups if in use.

ModernDriveLine vs. Ron Morris Performance:

Now with these it does not appear that you have to weld anything. Instead, correct me if I am wrong, it seems that you just attach the cable to the pedal. This seems much easier. This kit is also a bit more pricey. How is the durability, are people happy with these kits?

http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchan...Y&Store_Code=MPFMP&Category_Code=clutch_cable

So basically I am asking which one is the superior setup. I would appreciate it if you all could help me with this. Also, I bought a pedal assembly last year since I have an automatic now. How difficult is it to take off the automatic pedal assembly? Also, does anyone have any pictures of the cable clutch exiting the firewall?

Thanks guys
 
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I have the Ron Morris in my 66 and have had it for about, oh, 2 years now. Granted the car does not see many miles at all, (about 5000 in the last two years) the clutch system is the least of my worries.
 
roler said:
I have the Ron Morris in my 66 and have had it for about, oh, 2 years now. Granted the car does not see many miles at all, (about 5000 in the last two years) the clutch system is the least of my worries.

Roler,

Thanks for the reply. So did you just bolt the cable to the clutch pedal? Also, what kind of exhaust do you have? Long tube, shorties, or stock manifolds? Where there any issues of you not having clearance. I have Hedman long tube and I am a bit worried.

Thanks,

Mike
 
I'm in the same boat as you. I decided on Steve's because it's welded on and because the quadrant is in line with the pedal. It just makes sense to me. Plus I'm going to have him install that sweet bearing in there instead of the bushing. Should be nice and smooth. As far as header clearance... I'm just going to suck it up and cross my fingers. I have Hooker long tubes. I'll make it work somehow I figure.... :)
 
I had a modern drive line cable setup and other than the one hole int he fire wall that I had to drill, it was the EASIEST thing to install. Solid as a rock and easy to adjust.


HEader clearance will be an issue with any cable setup so fab somethign to protect it from heat or do what I wish I had done and get a hydraulic set up.
 
monk302 said:
Roler,

Thanks for the reply. So did you just bolt the cable to the clutch pedal? Also, what kind of exhaust do you have? Long tube, shorties, or stock manifolds? Where there any issues of you not having clearance. I have Hedman long tube and I am a bit worried.

Thanks,

Mike

Yes, the inner part of the cable bolts to a bracket that the kit provides which bolts to the top of the pedal carrier. The outer part of the cable mounts to the pedal itself. I have a 351w with long tubes, 3" collectors and 3" exhaust. Clearance is no issue at all. The kit comes with a heat shield for headers, but that slid away on my mustang. The cable is really built. It melted a bit (the outside plastic) because it touched the header but it was fine. I just zip tied it away a little bit. I just had to get a power steering drop bracket.
 
I'm in the middle of installing the MustangSteve clutch cable kit (In addition to the roller bearings and power brake booster). I chose it mostly because of the weld-on quadrant that keeps the cable at a constant radius as it was designed to do. If you know anything about welding, you'll realize that the weld will be VERY strong, and certainly nothing to worry about as far as durability goes.

I haven't tried the other clutch systems, but I've never really heard any complaints about any of the clutch cable retro-fit kits. I have, however heard some horror stories about hydraulic units.
 
66 BLAKE 96 said:
I'm in the middle of installing the MustangSteve clutch cable kit (In addition to the roller bearings and power brake booster). I chose it mostly because of the weld-on quadrant that keeps the cable at a constant radius as it was designed to do. If you know anything about welding, you'll realize that the weld will be VERY strong, and certainly nothing to worry about as far as durability goes.

I haven't tried the other clutch systems, but I've never really heard any complaints about any of the clutch cable retro-fit kits. I have, however heard some horror stories about hydraulic units.

Blake,

The Mustang Steve Kit uses a stock 5.0 cable right?
 
Ive got a year of driving on the mustang steve setup in my 65, I think its fantastic, great feel and adjustability. I run Mac longtube headers, interference is not an issue.
 
Do any of you have some picture so your setup? Specifically where the cable exits the firewall. I have an automatic now and was wondering if I will have to cut or if there is a preexisting hole that I could punch out. What I mean by preexisting hole is that if my car came stock with a manual transmission, an area that would be used to connect the linkage through the firewall.
 
TT670 said:
Ive got a year of driving on the mustang steve setup in my 65, I think its fantastic, great feel and adjustability. I run Mac longtube headers, interference is not an issue.
You are the first person I know that has the MAC long tubes. These are the sure fit, right? Glad to hear there aren't any problems. I will soon have the same setup.
 
66P51GT said:
You are the first person I know that has the MAC long tubes. These are the sure fit, right? Glad to hear there aren't any problems. I will soon have the same setup.
The Mac system fit real nice for me, no cable interference, but typical longtube installation woes. The system from the headers back is a snap to install. I suggest you use their mufflers or at least make sure the dimensions are correct if you use another muffler. The dimensions are critical for tailpipe fit, especially if youve got a GT rear valance