Cai, Tb, And Maf Suggestions...

#41
Here is some documentation on it.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...application-docs/1988-1993-ford-mustang-5-0l/

Ignore some of this. I will explain later

This is the kit.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-ford-60-pin-eec-iv-unassembled-kit-no-connector/

You will need to source a connector from somewhere, I used one off a junk ecu it requires desoldering the connector from the stock board.

You can wire anything from this unit, I use it to trigger my fan relays (low and high speed). And a shift light. So really the options are limitless.
 
#42
a91what said:
Here is some documentation on it.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support...application-docs/1988-1993-ford-mustang-5-0l/

Ignore some of this. I will explain later

This is the kit.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/diypnp-ford-60-pin-eec-iv-unassembled-kit-no-connector/

You will need to source a connector from somewhere, I used one off a junk ecu it requires desoldering the connector from the stock board.

You can wire anything from this unit, I use it to trigger my fan relays (low and high speed). And a shift light. So really the options are limitless.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I just browsed through some of that quickly. I will have more time later. But basically you DE solder the male connector from a stock ecu and solder it to that and it is the new ecu? Does it matter if the end you use if from a MAF or SD car?

Sounds like something I can do, not that I have any tuning experience but I am a master tech So i should be able to handle that. And I have heard the auto tune is great. Not bad for the price

As far as wide bands go I don't have any experience with them. Can you replace your 02 sensors with them or do you weld in a bung and use them separately?
 
#43
You will have to build the entire ecu from parts. Before you freak out, it's easy and the instructions are good. You can use any 60 pin ford eec connector that will plug into your harness.

I WILL HELP YOU TUNE THE CAR. Lol, so don't worry about that. Once I go over it with you it'll all make sense.

For the wb you need a entire wb system. This will include a dash mounted gauge, (or where ever you want it) it's a must to see what is going on while you tune. It will get wired to the ecu using the driver side o2 wiring. The stock o2 harness can be removed. (Unless you are using something else in it).

Join us here for the MS discussion and we have links posted so you can download the base version of the software for FREE! This way you can brows thru the program and see if you feel comfortable with it.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-megasquirt-tunerstudio-help-thread.888730/
 
#44
a91what said:
You will have to build the entire ecu from parts. Before you freak out, it's easy and the instructions are good. You can use any 60 pin ford eec connector that will plug into your harness.

I WILL HELP YOU TUNE THE CAR. Lol, so don't worry about that. Once I go over it with you it'll all make sense.

For the wb you need a entire wb system. This will include a dash mounted gauge, (or where ever you want it) it's a must to see what is going on while you tune. It will get wired to the ecu using the driver side o2 wiring. The stock o2 harness can be removed. (Unless you are using something else in it).

Join us here for the MS discussion and we have links posted so you can download the base version of the software for FREE! This way you can brows thru the program and see if you feel comfortable with it.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-megasquirt-tunerstudio-help-thread.888730/
Click to expand...

Seems pretty cool, but how much else will I need to buy other Than the kit and wide band system. And what wideband would work well with that system
 
#45
Jrodstang87 said:
Seems pretty cool, but how much else will I need to buy other Than the kit and wide band system. And what wideband would work well with that system
Click to expand...
You will need a soldering iron and solder, I suggest the lead solder. And some misc stuff like heat shrink.

Any wb will work I suggest the mtxl it's what I use but as long as it has an output to wire into the ms your gtg. Plx wb are also good.
 
#46
a91what said:
You will need a soldering iron and solder, I suggest the lead solder. And some misc stuff like heat shrink.

Any wb will work I suggest the mtxl it's what I use but as long as it has an output to wire into the ms your gtg. Plx wb are also good.
Click to expand...

Oh good, as long as I would need more modules or anything bank breaking haha. I will definitely read more into it. Sounds exciting!!
 
#50
Be honest with yourself and the grinder about future plans/goals for the car. It will make all the difference between an OK motor and omg this thing made me crap my pants.
 
#52
stykthyn said:
Be honest with yourself and the grinder about future plans/goals for the car. It will make all the difference between an OK motor and omg this thing made me crap my pants.
Click to expand...

Awesome. I guess it's possible for forced induction in the future but that would be waaaay distant future. So should I just get one ground for staying NA?
 
#53
Jrodstang87 said:
Awesome. I guess it's possible for forced induction in the future but that would be waaaay distant future. So should I just get one ground for staying NA?
Click to expand...
If staying n/a for awhile then get it ground for that. My cam was done by bullet cams but it was Spec'd by a member of a different forum. He has done a lot of cams. I still have his info if you're interested. A billet core runs around 400$ to your door. FYI. Mine was Spec'd around tfs 205cc 11r heads,HolleySMII,30#inj,LT headers,manual trans,3.73 gears. It had 223/227*dur at .050 w/ .525/.525 lift. Was going to pull to around 6-6200rpm. Also most n/a cams can be run with a blower. It wouldn't be a "perfect" cam but it would run fine. Also if you're going with the PnP don't worry about buying a MAF.
 
#54
A5literMan said:
If staying n/a for awhile then get it ground for that. My cam was done by bullet cams but it was Spec'd by a member of a different forum. He has done a lot of cams. I still have his info if you're interested. A billet core runs around 400$ to your door. FYI. Mine was Spec'd around tfs 205cc 11r heads,HolleySMII,30#inj,LT headers,manual trans,3.73 gears. It had 223/227*dur at .050 w/ .525/.525 lift. Was going to pull to around 6-6200rpm. Also most n/a cams can be run with a blower. It wouldn't be a "perfect" cam but it would run fine. Also if you're going with the PnP don't worry about buying a MAF.
Click to expand...

Great. I was planning on going with FTI, heard great things. Unlesa aomeone recommends someone else for various reasons. I have basically the same mods as you except smaller heads. What did your car make for power, or run in the 1/4?
 
#55
Jrodstang87 said:
Great. I was planning on going with FTI, heard great things. Unlesa aomeone recommends someone else for various reasons. I have basically the same mods as you except smaller heads. What did your car make for power, or run in the 1/4?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I had to scrap the project and in the process of selling the car soon. Didn't get it running. Dyno tuner and cam guy predicted around 350rwhp and 11sec et's. With your combo of parts and a custom cam, you should expect around 300-330rwhp.
 
#56
A5literMan said:
Unfortunately I had to scrap the project and in the process of selling the car soon. Didn't get it running. Dyno tuner and cam guy predicted around 350rwhp and 11sec et's. With your combo of parts and a custom cam, you should expect around 300-330rwhp.
Click to expand...

Ohh that's too bad. Bummer. Part of me feels like the systemax will be too big for my setup, wondering if I should go with the street heat trick flow. Idk. Plus i would have to put my stock valve covers back on, cause I read the systemax doesn't work with tall fms Covers. I will have to make my stockers clear the 1.7rr. No big deal if the intake Is the right choice. I'm just worried that it is too big
 
#59
I'd go 75mm tb also but the 70 work fine. The reason I say 75mm tb is for a few reasons. For one there is no down side of having everything in front of the intake(tb,cai,MAF) being as big as possible. You want as much airflow capabilities as possible. It doesn't effect anything in a negative way. The Holley intake is a 75mm opening(actually it's about 73.5 lol) and you don't want any choke points. If you do add a blower or whatever you'll want a 75 at a minimum anyway. So buy once! Also I highly recommend Accufab for the brand. BBK has a tendency to whistle and are t as good. FTI is a good choice for your cam. Ed does a great job. You probably will have to buy springs for the heads/cam change just FYI. My Holley cleared some canton valve covers. Not sure on FMS brand but the tall covers are for a carb setup are t they?
 
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