If you're going to do all that you've mentioned above, then get 42 lb injectors and plan on either a custom tune or programmable ECU. That way, you'll be able to ditch the FMU altogether. A 65mm TB will do you well but a 70 would be ideal (that happens to be the size of the opening of the Blowzilla inlet). I don't recommend the Blowzilla/Flowzilla for your combination due to your use of the stock block. The Blowzilla will be able to more than exceed the capabilities of the stock block.
With a custom tune, it will not be necessary for you to change the sample tube. The tune will compensate for that within the EEC.
I probably don't need to mention this but just incase, your build should consist of a cast crank, forged rods, and forged pistons that when combined with your head selection, yield you a final comression ratio of 9 to 9.5:1. If you ever plan to upgrade your block then your money would not be wasted on purchasing a forged crank that you could one day drop into a tougher block. A custom cam would make a world of difference as well. Start with a blower pulley (labeled by Kenne Bell) for roughly 9 or 10 lbs of boost and go from there. Your heads and cam will be the largest determiners of how much boost you will actually see on the gauges.
Remember... boost "pressures" on positive displacement blowers can not be compared to pressures from other types of forced induction. Pressure is only a by-product of what the motor is incapable of consuming (the same can be said for other types of forced induction as well, only not to the same extent). A twin screw displaces air by volume per revolution, not by the amount of pressure exiting the disharge tube.
Once you get the whole thing tuned, you should be GOLDEN! You're right at sea level and your humity and ambient tempuratures are relatively constant. You should also be able to put your wideband money towards your custom tune because of that. With that combo you should be equally potent at either the race track or your local tractor pull.
If you've got aftermarket rear end gears in your car already, set yourself in for a lack of traction. You'll be putting down well over 400 ft/lbs of torque just off idle. You may find yourself swapping in 2:73s or 3:27s in place of 3:55s or 3:73s for a Kenne Bell street build. The KB does not require a winding head start to make power. Your custom cam can help reduce some of the shock at the bottom of the RPM range as well. Tell them (cam grinders) you want to keep everything under 6000 RPM with a nice flat power curve from about 5300 to redline. It will basically enable you to do no wrong when shifting.
