Calling KB and 306 users

Use the search function bro. I've covered this topic many many times.

Get a Blowzilla setup for a GT-40 Lower.

What size injectors are you running?

The max boost you'll likely be able to support with the Blowzilla will be with the 7 lb pulley (you will probably not see 7 lbs with your current heads, it will be less). To be on the safe side, you may wish to run the 6 lb pulley (your slightly larger than stock TB will be worth at least a pound of boost (additional vs. the 58 mm) all by itself on a PD blower). You'll also need an FMU and a Boost-a-pump in order to get the pump and injectors to support the boost.

If you're going to shade tree tune it, you'll also need a wideband 02 meter, in-car fuel pressure gauge, and vac-boost gauge. Go one heat range cooler on the plugs gapped ot .035.

If you plan to run more boost than that on your stock fuel system then you're looking for trouble as it will not be able to support it.

With larger injectors and and in-tank 255L FP, you'll be able to support much more. It will mean upgrading your injectors and reclibrating the meter. 30 lb injectors is about as large as you can reliably go without having to get a custom tuned chip to deal with the fuel tables.

Even at a modest 6 lbs of boost, it will put a smile on your face when climbing the Pali Highway. The nice thing about purchasing the Blowzilla right from the get-go is that it gives you lots of room to grow.

If you're going to do all that you've mentioned above, then get 42 lb injectors and plan on either a custom tune or programmable ECU. That way, you'll be able to ditch the FMU altogether. A 65mm TB will do you well but a 70 would be ideal (that happens to be the size of the opening of the Blowzilla inlet). I don't recommend the Blowzilla/Flowzilla for your combination due to your use of the stock block. The Blowzilla will be able to more than exceed the capabilities of the stock block.

With a custom tune, it will not be necessary for you to change the sample tube. The tune will compensate for that within the EEC.

I probably don't need to mention this but just incase, your build should consist of a cast crank, forged rods, and forged pistons that when combined with your head selection, yield you a final comression ratio of 9 to 9.5:1. If you ever plan to upgrade your block then your money would not be wasted on purchasing a forged crank that you could one day drop into a tougher block. A custom cam would make a world of difference as well. Start with a blower pulley (labeled by Kenne Bell) for roughly 9 or 10 lbs of boost and go from there. Your heads and cam will be the largest determiners of how much boost you will actually see on the gauges.

Remember... boost "pressures" on positive displacement blowers can not be compared to pressures from other types of forced induction. Pressure is only a by-product of what the motor is incapable of consuming (the same can be said for other types of forced induction as well, only not to the same extent). A twin screw displaces air by volume per revolution, not by the amount of pressure exiting the disharge tube.

Once you get the whole thing tuned, you should be GOLDEN! You're right at sea level and your humity and ambient tempuratures are relatively constant. You should also be able to put your wideband money towards your custom tune because of that. With that combo you should be equally potent at either the race track or your local tractor pull.

If you've got aftermarket rear end gears in your car already, set yourself in for a lack of traction. You'll be putting down well over 400 ft/lbs of torque just off idle. You may find yourself swapping in 2:73s or 3:27s in place of 3:55s or 3:73s for a Kenne Bell street build. The KB does not require a winding head start to make power. Your custom cam can help reduce some of the shock at the bottom of the RPM range as well. Tell them (cam grinders) you want to keep everything under 6000 RPM with a nice flat power curve from about 5300 to redline. It will basically enable you to do no wrong when shifting.

hey daggar, ive been planning on adding KB over this winter, tried searching for somehting similar to what i want, and everythings a lot more than i want so here goes. right now im stock, cept whats in my sig, plan was to get a KB, either the standard or blowzilla, depending on how much moola. i dont plan on making any mods to this block(400 or less hp crank limit), so would the blowzilla even be worth the extra do you think? i was thinking the standard would be ample. and if i were to i would plan on new FP, Injectors. What else would i really need. ive been told a new MA. also what size injectors, since max boost would be 9psi. Thanx.

aren't KB's pretty expensive? Whats the price difference between a single-turbo kit and a KB kit?

bynummustang said:

IDK, but i like the on-demand-power. No spooling up.

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exactly! and yes a tad more expensive, but i think its worth it, plus a lot easier install

Yeah, it is definitely worth it. Mine has been a bear to tune but almost done. Blowzilla with 10# pulley, makes 8# on my 306, Edelbrock 60379 heads, Explorer lower, Crane 2030 cam, 42# injectors, 70mm TB, stock inlet and air box w/ K&N panel filter, stock FPR and 190 L/hr pump, stock block, rods, ARP fastners, Tweecer RT, all on 91 Octane.

You'll run into a few problems with 8# of boost or more without an IC:

1. High ACT temps after decelerating and on tip-in causing detonation due to two things:

a. High ACT temps requiring reduced timing.

b. Reduced timing causes the PCM to actually try to go to negative timing, but instead it goes to max. timing! Clang Clunk Bang....very bad.

Don

bynummustang said:

True, but money is a b****!

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yea it is, but u know when ur gonna be spending the money anyways, better to just go the lil extra on ur car.