Cam Change, what is needed?
- Thread starter Luminox
- Start date
65fastback2+2
New Member
Max Power said:
if we go with what do you HAVE to change, gaskets and timing chain. You can reuse the rest. Do make sure as you pull the pushrods out you mark them so they go back in THE SAME track they came out of since they are already worn to that track. We (me and ron) used a piece of word with 1/2" holes drilled in em with cylinder numbers next to em.
Replacement pushrods for a non-guide plate motor are $20. Cheap enough to just replace, IMO. As a matter of fact, I have a set on the shelf that I would let go.
Another thing to keep in mind. You won't get full rpm value from this cam because your valve springs will die at 4500-5000 rpm, while the cam makes power to 6500. If you put the proper valve springs in, your studs will need to be replaced with screw-in studs. I think Edelbrock may not even warranty the cam unless you buy their springs, but I could be wrong.
Your lifters will probably not be up to the job either.
Another thing to keep in mind. You won't get full rpm value from this cam because your valve springs will die at 4500-5000 rpm, while the cam makes power to 6500. If you put the proper valve springs in, your studs will need to be replaced with screw-in studs. I think Edelbrock may not even warranty the cam unless you buy their springs, but I could be wrong.
Your lifters will probably not be up to the job either.
I already have a timing chain and the gasket kit, I was thinking about doing valve spring as well. The cam came with lifters as well so I should be ok there. I will have to look into the push rods, any recommendations?
Next questions is what size roller rockers would be needed? 1.6 or 1.7? 3/8?
Next questions is what size roller rockers would be needed? 1.6 or 1.7? 3/8?
Part of the problem with putting the proper valve springs in to match this cam is that they will probably want to pull the press-in studs out of your heads. You should really convert to screw-in studs and guideplates if you do that.
I have a set of Edelbrock hardened push-rods that can be used with or without guide plates that I will sell you for $25. I got the set for my rebuild and they sent me 289/302 pushrods instead of 351 pushrods.
I would use the stock ratio rockers. They type would depend on whether you change the studs or not.
I have a set of Edelbrock hardened push-rods that can be used with or without guide plates that I will sell you for $25. I got the set for my rebuild and they sent me 289/302 pushrods instead of 351 pushrods.
I would use the stock ratio rockers. They type would depend on whether you change the studs or not.
6Stang7
New Member
You would also need to make sure that you don't get a ratio that could possibility have piston to valve interference. Make sure that you figure out what type of lifters you have, and the proper way to set them. Other then that, make sure to do you high idle break in.
My car is currently in the shop getting heads and a cam installed. I bought the parts and here's the list of parts:
Timing Chain, double roller.
Cam
Lifters
Hardend Pushrods
Roller Tip Rockers
Intake Gasket
Head Gaskets
Water Pump Gasket
Timing Cover Gasket
Case of Oil
Gallon of Anti Freeze
Carb./Parts Cleaner, 2 cans
Gasket Sealer
Valve Cover Gaskets
Items BOLDED are what your going to need to change just the cam. If you call Comp Cams they'll tell you that you MUST change your lifters as well. They sell all of their cams with lifters as a kit if you want it that way, or you can just get the cam. For the few extra dollars...get the lifters! Like Max has said your stock valve train may suffer with a higer lift, definatly consider screw in rocker studs and stronger springs.
Timing Chain, double roller.
Cam
Lifters
Hardend Pushrods
Roller Tip Rockers
Intake Gasket
Head Gaskets
Water Pump Gasket
Timing Cover Gasket
Case of Oil
Gallon of Anti Freeze
Carb./Parts Cleaner, 2 cans
Gasket Sealer
Valve Cover Gaskets
Items BOLDED are what your going to need to change just the cam. If you call Comp Cams they'll tell you that you MUST change your lifters as well. They sell all of their cams with lifters as a kit if you want it that way, or you can just get the cam. For the few extra dollars...get the lifters! Like Max has said your stock valve train may suffer with a higer lift, definatly consider screw in rocker studs and stronger springs.
Hack
15 Year Member
I'm posting to second TheDan. Everything I've ever heard is that the lifters and cam become wear-matched. If you reuse the old lifters, expect one or more lobes on the cam to be flat before you get out of the drive way. That's what I've heard, because I've never tried reusing lifters, so I don't know for a fact.
Also, timing chains are inexpensive. Get a good quality timing chain.
Any other parts, you want to inspect the existing ones to determine whether they must be replaced or not. If you're on a budget, that is.
I'm putting together a 351C and feeling torn wanting to skimp on parts, so I feel your pain.
Also, timing chains are inexpensive. Get a good quality timing chain.
Any other parts, you want to inspect the existing ones to determine whether they must be replaced or not. If you're on a budget, that is.
I'm putting together a 351C and feeling torn wanting to skimp on parts, so I feel your pain.
I have the gaskets and timing chain, my Edelbrock RPM Cam came with the lifters already in the package. I'm not exactly trying to skimp on parts cost but this motor is probably going away next year or so. I just want to pump the old lady up a little till then. The motor still runs strong, doesn't smoke, doesn't burn oil but the PO and I have no idea how many miles are on it or if it's been rebuilt at all.
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