My question is what all has to be removed from the body to remove the cam without pulling the engine out? The bumper and the radiator and the ac?? Im thinkin about changing the cam when i swap the heads on. How much work is it to change the cam with the engine still in the car? Would it be better for me to just pull the engine out? Cuz i kno thats alot of work in itself and i really am pressed for time. Which way would be quicker any opinions?
Cam install question?
- Thread starter Lynx331
- Start date
TT91
Active Member
I believe only the radiator needs to be removed. Pulling the motor for a cam swap is a serious PITA, try the radiator and work from there. Post your results
1991vert
10 Year Member
i pulled my cam out last week. what you need to do is remove the radiator, the a/c condensor behind the radiator, and i took out all my a/c equip anyways cuz it didnt work. then remove the waterpump and timing chain cover and dont forget to get the balancer off or else you wont be pulling off the timing chain 
. then unbolt the bolt on the camshaft holding the timing chain gear to the cam and wiggle off the timing chain and remove the thrust plate.
here's what i did next to make sure i didnt damage the cam bearings. i took one of my accessory bolts out of my old heads which was about a good 6"-8" long and screwed it into the camshaft to give me some leverage. pull it out SLOWLY and straight. you will have to rotate the cam a few times to get it out because of it's shape (of course) and ur finished.
oh ya make sure you cover up the front of the oil pan with a towel or something so no crap gets in there. goodluck
*******TAKE OUT THE LIFTERS BEFORE YOU PULL THE CAM OR YOU'RE PULLING THE ENGINE. PERIOD.**********
. then unbolt the bolt on the camshaft holding the timing chain gear to the cam and wiggle off the timing chain and remove the thrust plate. here's what i did next to make sure i didnt damage the cam bearings. i took one of my accessory bolts out of my old heads which was about a good 6"-8" long and screwed it into the camshaft to give me some leverage. pull it out SLOWLY and straight. you will have to rotate the cam a few times to get it out because of it's shape (of course) and ur finished.
oh ya make sure you cover up the front of the oil pan with a towel or something so no crap gets in there. goodluck
*******TAKE OUT THE LIFTERS BEFORE YOU PULL THE CAM OR YOU'RE PULLING THE ENGINE. PERIOD.**********
ac will need to be moved so you can access the timing chain cover bolts.
ac compressor, bracket, powersteering moved to the side, timing chain cover, timing chain, radiator, balancer, pulleys, fan, ect.
pulling the motor is definately not the time consuming way to do it. how long do you have to get this done? heads alone will take quite abit of time, then adding on the cam.
ac compressor, bracket, powersteering moved to the side, timing chain cover, timing chain, radiator, balancer, pulleys, fan, ect.
pulling the motor is definately not the time consuming way to do it. how long do you have to get this done? heads alone will take quite abit of time, then adding on the cam.
You need to remove the radiator and swing the a/c condensor (in front of radiator) out of the way...just unbolt it from the supports...and you will have PLENTY of room to pull that cam out and replace it...
Oh and when pulling the cam out watch for the "drop" when you first start pulling it out...the cam itself isn't really heavy (probably 12lbs or so)...but the point of leverage (as mentioned) can get to you if you aren't ready for it...
Good Luck
Oh and when pulling the cam out watch for the "drop" when you first start pulling it out...the cam itself isn't really heavy (probably 12lbs or so)...but the point of leverage (as mentioned) can get to you if you aren't ready for it...
Good Luck
Funanin
Founding Member
TT91
Active Member
Funanin said:
uhhh..u dont need to, but its a SERIOUS PITA installing the timing cover again and lining up the gaskets.
Funanin said:
You do have to unbolt atleast 2 bolts (because they run thru the timing cover)...they are small bolts...I can't remember the particular size...but I undid 4 of the inner (middle) bolts to make it a bit easier...it is a pain the rear to get the gasket to line up...because when you try to put that timing cover on without disturbing your new gasket/oil pan gasket/and align with the dowel pins...it gets frustrating...make sure you put a nice dab of silicone where the timing cover/block/pan meet...so you don't get a leak...
you have to remove the four most forward bolts on the pan that go into the bottom of the timing chain cover.
it is a bitch to do it as sirshot mentioned. i just did it for the first time a week or so ago, the easiest way i think is to do this. you will have to cut the ends of the oil pan gaskets off and get new end pieces to re-install.
make sure you get some sealer where the gaskets meet in the corners and right in the front at the "tabs". place the gaskets, make sure they have sealer, slide the timing chain cover around the crank as cautiously as you can. put one bolt through the gasket and thread it on each side of the timing chain. then line up the gasket and start the second bolt on each side. since it will still be fairly loose, you can then slip the timing chain cover gasket behind the timing chain cover. hold the gasket in place with a couple bolts, then start tightening the oil pan to timing chain cover bolts. it will pull it towards the block, then you can start threading the timing chain cover bolts into the block.
i did that by tracing some of my own gasket end pieces and cutting them out of cork. it sealed up fine for me and only took around an hour for everything.
it is a bitch to do it as sirshot mentioned. i just did it for the first time a week or so ago, the easiest way i think is to do this. you will have to cut the ends of the oil pan gaskets off and get new end pieces to re-install.
make sure you get some sealer where the gaskets meet in the corners and right in the front at the "tabs". place the gaskets, make sure they have sealer, slide the timing chain cover around the crank as cautiously as you can. put one bolt through the gasket and thread it on each side of the timing chain. then line up the gasket and start the second bolt on each side. since it will still be fairly loose, you can then slip the timing chain cover gasket behind the timing chain cover. hold the gasket in place with a couple bolts, then start tightening the oil pan to timing chain cover bolts. it will pull it towards the block, then you can start threading the timing chain cover bolts into the block.
i did that by tracing some of my own gasket end pieces and cutting them out of cork. it sealed up fine for me and only took around an hour for everything.
