Can someone give me a estimate on how fast my pony should be?

Right now i have a 89 LX vert 5.0 5spd with a cervinis hood and spoiler, with flomaster tips on a bassani x-pipe (no cats), with a k&n filter, bbk long tube headers and suspension.

in the future i plan to do 373 gears, high performance manifold (upper and lower), Fender well cold air induction, and 70mm throttle body w/egr spacer.

how many horses should i currently have now, compared to what i should have when i get my future mods done? how fast should i be in the 1/4 mile?

also, does brand matter? i've been debating on weather to get the BBK CAI or the MAC..
 
Well first off you've got one of the heaviest of the fox body mustangs out there. So second, let me cut to the chase and say that considering it's a 5 speed and if you were a decent driver, my guess would be low 14's and possibly high 13's afterwards.
For brands.....you get what you pay for.

You've got a long way to go to understand performance "bolt ons" and how they don't work the way a lot of people think they will and expect them to. It's all about removing limitations and the exhaust and the intake setup work as well as definitely the gears - but it doesn't remove the restrictions present in the actual engine itself (heads, camshaft, ect.). You have plenty of time to read so my advise is study up if you want to get your stang running very well and try to understand what you need to do to get it to do what you want it to do.
 
My guess would be in the 14.2-14.5 range with a mph of 98-99 with current mods.

The 3.73s will drop about .3-.4 off your E.T. and the aftermarket upper/lower will give you about 10-15hp and about 20-25 with the CAI and bigger throttle body. These estimates will also depend upon the condition of your engine. Don't forget to always have a fresh tune-up!
 
dont spend a bunch of money on a cia though because they dont do all that much. I'd focus on the more important things first.
Your HP isnt going to be a while lot over stock cause all u have is exhaust w/ long tubes.
remember that the spoiler only adds weight in your 1/4 mile.
 
shttygtstang said:
i dont think youll get high 13s mid 14s sounds right with out the gears
But he included the gear swap in what he was going to do - therefore so did I. The gear swap will drop every bit of a few tenths off, which is why I said possibly high 13's. I don't know why you disagree in the sense of leaving out the biggest key component, if you included it your post would be stating the same thing I did........????? - sorry for my rant.
 
bolting stuff on is great and all but youre never going to make more than 250 rwhp without good heads, you can flow as much air to a motor as possible but it hits a wall with stock heads. an intake is worth about 5 rwhp on a stock motor, with heads its good for 12-17 rwhp.

if u want to get a CAI dont get mac, it doesnt work with aftermarket mass air meters, get a cheap one because its not worth anything on a mild motor anyways, just looks good (wait doesnt that equate to psychological horsepower?)

get a gear an hope to hit 13's, dont feel down if it doesnt, do all the "free" mods first, advance your timing to 14-15 degrees, get a electrical fan, and a k&n cone to replace that stock airbox, to free up a little horsepower and get a little quicker throttle response.
 
In your current condition, you won't see better than 14.8-15.1 tops. i see this at the drags every time I go, + I raced my bone stock vert many times. Your exhaust mods make the car sound great, but have done nothing above stock for power. Don't even bother throwing money at the 70 mm, upper and lower intake, and cold air intake. Without heads, your gonna spend a ****load of cash to gain maybe a tenth. Spend the money on traction, gears, and arms

Good news is my buddy hits 13.5 in an 89 vert with gears, drag radials, msd ignition, cai, full exhaust, and upper/lower rear control arms. your VERY first mod should be full length subframe connectors, followed by upper and lower control arms. The full lengths will do wonders for your stiffness and cornering, and the arms should shave off a couple of tenths, maybe more. Next should be your gears, then add some drag radials/slicks. If you can drive, that will get you into the high 13s without a question.
 
Some good advise on this thread.

I would go ahead with the gears, but 4.10's for an auto, also do subframes, it will save your chassis from damage and stiffen up the ride alot. Ditch the CAI, TB, and intake ideas until you fix some other problems areas. Making power is all about getting more air to the engine. The stock E7TE heads are a kink in that line. The factory valve springs are horrid about float in the upper RPM's. Like a bra at Mardi Graw, they need to come off. There are many choices out there. AFR and TFS would be the best, but you pay alot for them and with stock intake and exaust the gains won't be that great. I would suggest some GT40's or Thumper's with upgraded valve springs, they will give you similar gains as the high dallar heads with alot more money in your wallet. Maby get the lower intake ported for about $130 from TMOSS, and I gaurantee this will wake your car up alot and then you can do some other bolt on upgrades and see good results for all of them. However at that time you will probally be looking to get this new power to the ground.