Can this water fitting be relocated?

[ratio411]

The elbow fitting behind the stat housing...
Goes back to the heater core...
I can't think of any reason the heater core cannot return to the rear water passages, can you?

Most aftermarket manifolds have several threaded access points to the water passages, both front and rear of the manifold.
To keep things tidy, I put the temp sender back there, but now am considering using the other access to dump the heater core and have one less heater hose running all the way from the front of the engine.

Anyone see issues with this strategy?
I wouldn't imagine there is a special reason to dump the heater core up front.

After some thought, this should help the engine cool too!
The return water from the core would be cooler... before it would dump next to the stat, potentially keeping it shut a little longer from the cooler water.
Now the cooler water goes into the rear passages where it would benefit the heads cooling as it would have to travel back through the entire system.
Any thoughts?

 

[D.Hearne]

You could try it, but I don't think it'll flow(or maybe I should say as much water will pass thru, as it'll have to rely on the natural flow of the coolant) as much water, in fact it should flow backwards, from the rear port, thru the heater core and then back into the front port.

 

[ratio411]

Isn't that elbow behind the stat the return line from the heater core?
The pressure line should be the line from the water pump, correct?
If so, then it should still flow fine as the pressure line is not disturbed.

Do you see a flaw in my thinking?

Edit:
Or is the line at the water pump a suction line?
In that case, it's still fine as it will just suck from the rear of the engine, rather than the front passage.
Correct?

 

[BornInAFord]

Relocate if if you want, it certainly won't hurt anything. On my old Performer and my new Stealth I am running the return to the rear port. It may help keep it cooler, but I run it just to reduce clutter. With aluminum heads and a good water pump and radiator I don't overheat, even on hot days, but if you are marginal in cooling capacity it could help.

The engine was designed to run well enough without the crossover and the original manifolds (289/302) didn't even have the rear crossover. Many of the aftermarket manifolds don't have the rear crossover either, including the new performer (old one had it), RPM and the Weiand Action Plus 8124 (Steath has it, though). Even with the crossover, most I've noticed run the heater core return line back to the stock location.

Do you still have your torker 289? If so, would you might be able to tap two ports on each side where the water ports are in the head and fabricate a crossover pipe with an inlet for the heater hose I'd think. Measure, though as the ports are offset. I wouldn't run the return to just one side, though.

Daniel

 

[ratio411]

Do you still have your torker 289?

I am not running it at this time.
I have a T289, Holley Contender (stock-like 4v with rear water cross), and an iron 4v.
Right now I have the iron intake in place.
I happen to think it's a great intake...
But I am holding out to get a Weiand Stealth.
I am trying to keep the engine stock looking.
The Weiand is about as radical as I can get and still keep it hidden under a stock air cleaner.

This relocation was being discussed on another board and I wanted to run it by you guys. Lots more members here.
I intend to try it after thinking about it.
Just have to do it when I get a Stealth.

Edit:
Added a pic of the 302.
Doesn't look like much.
I want to keep it that way... no matter how rad it gets in the future.
I have added Duraspark and swapped the 1850 for a 650 DP since this pic, but it still looks very much the same. The dizzy is single can now is all.

 

[D.Hearne]

The front intake fitting is the outlet flow port to the heater, it goes intake to heater and back into the waterpump. Same as the bypass hose. So, yea, feeding the heater from the rear will work and the outflow back to the pump.

 

[rbohm]

you can relocate it if you like with no problem. the pressure for the heater core comes from the water pump. the outlet can be where you want it. in fact there are later model cars that use that location for the heater core outlet at the rear of the intake.

 

[Rusty67]

This sounds like a great idea to keep the engine bay cleaner and easier to work in. Thanks for the post =)

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

find yourself a transfer tube from a 87-93 mustang and use it with the corresponding heater core hoses that really makes it look clean under the hood!!
(no more black rubber hose for 50 feet over the intake)

 

[bnickel]

don't know for sure about other small blocks but the 351 w's came with a metal tube for the water pump line to the heater core, though most got ditched the first time someone changed the heater hoses. mine still had the original one when i got it, too bad it won't work the demon carb i have on it now or the carter i had on it before. i still have it in the garage and i'll use it on the 69 cougar with either a 4100 or stock ford style holley with the driver side inlet until i can scrape up enough dough go to fuel inject with a holley commander 950 pro-jection system