Winter in IL has done it to me. I just picked up these original 93 Cobra intakes. I am sending the bottom to TMoss for his porting magic. I also bought LX tail lights to replace the cheese graters. Here are some pics plus some of other mods I did last fall.
Can't Drive Due To Winter? Then Modify It!
- Thread starter Bob F
- Start date
I like them and the front struts also. You can really tell when they are too soft. The first time they were too soft i had bad wheel hop and it just felt wierd when i got on it. I can adust the shocks easy but the struts are harder to get at. Car has to be in the air for that. But once you get them set you really dont need to mess with them.
Well my drivers side cheesegrater had a crack and missing plastic on the housing that bothered me. I like them on black GT's but not on white. I found a deal on ebay and i liked the way my 89 LX looked (my first new Mustang). I guess I like my cars to look a little bit custom but still "stockish". Thats why i got the chrome cobra replica wheels.
Im with ya on the euro and smoked lights, but we all have our opionions just like the chrome wheels some people hate them. Anyway the extra bracing is the fit sytem from stifflers like the other stuff in the pics. The next and final step from them is called spider bracing. It will tie the k member, cross member, and subframes together. Mon. Im buying a nos kit from a friend. Gonna keep it mild at 50 or 75hp. How about some pics of yours?
maaan, my stuff looks like shnit. Nothing like yours. btw, I wasn't being snarky or downing your car. I think it looks great. my mustang is straight and all. But when I bought it, I was lied to and keep finding stuff that I cant stand. like, the molding peeling back on the ends, the quarter glass is rough and the engine was a flop. Transmission was grinding going into second, when it was cold. like the first shift of the day and then it was fine. the black metal under the windows is kinda rough,same with the metal molding around the hatch glass. I have had to redo most the wriring under the dash and it still isn't right. P/O put in the white face overlays on the gauges, but it flickers on and off. the front right fender was replaced at some point and it leaves a HUGE gap next to the hood. It does have the "Stormin' Norman" hood and other little things. but by the time I realized all this crap, I had already wet sanded it and jammed it out. now it sits as a shell in my back yard till I finish the engine. Then the fun begins.
No worries I didn't take offense at all. I wish I had your hood! My moldings were curling too. I had a body shop remove them, lay them flat and heat them up, and re-apply them. Turned out good (not perfect but very nice) then i put on the new red stripe. My car has been repainted and has flaws. It is a driver not a show car. I also have a Cobra insert for the front bumper but that is a body shop thing above my meager skill level!
Sounds good. Maybe I should do that too? I'm kinda new to these forums and how to use them the right way. Did I already say I'm picking up a N20 kit today?
It is a Nitrous Xpress wet kit with a purge kit. The bottle is in primer so I will paint it and I need to get a WOT switch but the rest is all good. I'm thinking about a 255lph fuel pump and 24lb injectors for a safety margin. Also I think I will do some type of window switch and/or rev limiter but I don't know much about the best way to do that. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Is that their plate system or the nozzle kit? If it's the nozzle system limit your jetting to the 100-150. I prefer the plate or a dry kit because of the fuel pooling dilemma. I've ran both(wet & dry) and never had a problem.
The rest of your plans are all good ideas..except the 24's. They are unnecessary with a wet kit. The fuel jets will take care of the fueling needs of the system. For a window/rev limiter I'd recommend an msd system. The only problem is msd's quality has declined over the past decade. I'd still probably run them(I'm on the fence myself but leaning that way). Set your window switch a few hundred rpm below your rev limiter. You want the rev limiter to be an ignition cut vs a fuel cut. Either can be bad but you definitely don't want a lean condition! And rember you'll need to run colder plugs and watch your timing(10-12* at most with 93 octane). Also if you're ever planning on going to Byron...drop me a pm. I'd be more than happy to help/watch etc.
The rest of your plans are all good ideas..except the 24's. They are unnecessary with a wet kit. The fuel jets will take care of the fueling needs of the system. For a window/rev limiter I'd recommend an msd system. The only problem is msd's quality has declined over the past decade. I'd still probably run them(I'm on the fence myself but leaning that way). Set your window switch a few hundred rpm below your rev limiter. You want the rev limiter to be an ignition cut vs a fuel cut. Either can be bad but you definitely don't want a lean condition! And rember you'll need to run colder plugs and watch your timing(10-12* at most with 93 octane). Also if you're ever planning on going to Byron...drop me a pm. I'd be more than happy to help/watch etc.
It is a nozzle kit. I'm only gonna go 75hp jets partly to reduce wear and/or possible breakage and also because it gets expensive to fill that bottle! Now when I go to Byron I might jump up to 125hp but that would be max. My timings at 14* now and I planned on going 10-12*. I'm also thinking of going with an adjustable MSD timing box so I can run 14* off the bottle and retard while on it. I was on the fence on the injectors but I have had enough people tell me the same as you. I might buy new or re-conditioned ones though. Colder plugs for sure and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I will be going to Byron for sure at least twice so I will let u know. Also if u are going let me know.
