• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Car randomly dieng out then not starting

  • Thread starter Thread starter mus1994stang
  • Start date Start date Sep 23, 2004
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 23, 2004
#1
  • Sep 23, 2004
  • #1
for awhile i would have to crank it for a few seconds to get it started. then i was driving and the rpms drop to zero and back up to normal. a few times i will get to a complete stop and it will completly shut off and will not restart for about 10 minutes or so.
i replaced the fuel pump and its does not happen as much now
i have heard it could be the relay?
where are they located on a 94 mustang gt
also heard it could be..
MAF sensor
IAC
ignition
loose wires?

i havent been able to find any commom problems and everytime i want to test fuel/ spark it starts
any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks...
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Sep 23, 2004
#2
  • Sep 23, 2004
  • #2
Start with the basics. Yank all 8 spark plugs, and see what they look like. Report back when you do.

Get a fuel pressure gauge, and check out the pressure with vacuum, and without.

Next get a vacuum gauge, and check your vacuum. Whatever the number may be, the important part is that it is steady.

If the spark plugs are dirt brown, and the fuel pressure & vacuum check out, the likely problem is spark timing. Check the base timing with the spout unplugged. If it's at 10*, then go to your haynes manual and it will tell you how to check the timing with the spout connected, to monitor the computer's changes.

Next look at your sensor in the distributor (PIP module). They can cause serious problems when they go bad.

If your plugs are jet black, or white, then it's a a/f ratio problem.

Does the problem happen when the car is bone cold? Only when it's cold? Only when it's hot? Both? Test the car when it's cold; Also, watch the temperature gauge, and when it reaches normal operating temperature, see if it starts to happen.
Scott
 
M

_MATiC

New Member
Sep 24, 2003
140
0
0
El Paso, TX
Sep 23, 2004
#3
  • Sep 23, 2004
  • #3
same problem

im having that same problem. it started by just dropping to 0 rpm's then resuming to normal driving. but it's gotten worse to where my car completely shuts off and wont start for 10-20 minutes or until it cools down. it has no problems starting when it's cold but when it heats up, no way will it start. check my thread "yet another problem." i'm really tempted to replace the pip/stator/hall effects sensor (pick your name) tomorrow becuz it's gotten pretty dangerous when my car stops on the damn freeway.
 
F

fiveohh94gt

New Member
Dec 26, 2003
277
0
0
Sep 24, 2004
#4
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #4
this sounds very similar to the problem i had. i'm sure it was the stator(or whatever you want to call it), but i just put a MSD distributor in since my other was almost shot anyway. try the stator first since its only around $10
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Sep 24, 2004
#5
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #5
Scott and everyone else's advice sounds good. dont forget about the pick up (as mentioned) and coil itself. remember that the tach signal comes from the coil - if the tach gets funky, that can indicate an ignition malfunction.

when it wont start, are you missing spark?

good luck.
 

MLC Stang

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
210
0
0
Atlanta, GA
Sep 24, 2004
#6
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #6
mus1994stand,

Your distributor stator is going bad.

That's exactly how they fail, slowly over time. Soon it will die completely and your car will not restart.

The Stator is also called the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup). It contains a Hall Effects Sensor which is a magnetic pick-up that tells the computer when each cylinder is at TDC. Hall Effects Sensors are very temperature sensitive, and eventually die over time due to sitting right on top of the engine near the heads.

It's mounted in the bottom of your distributor and you have to remove the distributor from the engine to replace it.

Mine died in exactly the same mannner. Car would die for no reason. After a 5 to 10 minute cool-down it would restart. Finally, after about two weeks or so, it just died completely and would never restart again.

Replace it and your good to go.
 
S

Silver85TC

New Member
May 28, 2003
130
1
0
Sep 24, 2004
#7
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #7
Check the following link for more info on the Stator;
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=542627&highlight=stator

Cheers
 
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 24, 2004
#8
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #8
thanks alot guys ill try the PIP.

the problem is that everytime this happens im out somewhere and dont check spark and fuel. ive checked those two and there fine...but that is when the car is running.

everytime it does happen i have to wait for the temp to down to "n" to start it
(about 10 minutes)
it doesnt nessicarlly happen when its hot or cold though.

the car has 120,000 it could be the PIP.
any other comments ideas would be great.
 
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 24, 2004
#9
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #9
if i get a new stator or PIP
should i go with echlin from napa 33.99
or go with motorcraft
 
M

_MATiC

New Member
Sep 24, 2003
140
0
0
El Paso, TX
Sep 24, 2004
#10
  • Sep 24, 2004
  • #10
mus1994stang said:
if i get a new stator or PIP
should i go with echlin from napa 33.99
or go with motorcraft
Click to expand...

i dont really think it matters but i'd go with the motorcraft. in a few minutes im gonna run to autozone and pick one up for my car. having the same probs so i'll post if things work out w. the stator. good luck and post about your results.
 
M

_MATiC

New Member
Sep 24, 2003
140
0
0
El Paso, TX
Sep 25, 2004
#11
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #11
well after fighting with auto zone about the stator (went back like 3 times before getting the right one) i finally got around to installing it. after fighting with my distributor (couldn't get the gear off) i decided to buy some electronic cleaner and spray the hell out of my old stator. i'll get it installed today, for sure, and let you guys know the results.
ps: autozone sucks at getting **** right. had to ask for a 95 cobra stator...anyone had the same problems?
 
B

Black70Fastback

New Member
Dec 14, 2003
319
0
0
Dyer, IN
Sep 25, 2004
#12
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #12
if you dont have a press to get the dist apart, it may have been easier to buy a whole ramanufactured dist from them. i thouhg it was like 75 bucks to do it that way though plus your old one as a core.
 
S

smokedsaleen

New Member
Sep 13, 2004
12
0
0
Sep 25, 2004
#13
  • Sep 25, 2004
  • #13
hey can you guys tell me if this fixed your problem,

all im experienceing is the car not starting, it starts fine then all of a sudden wont start. Today i had to wait 10 minutes then it started again... but i dont know if it has to do with heat because i went to a friends shop were he works and turned it off and then started it up again and again and it worked fine.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4607360#post4607360

is my thread
 
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 26, 2004
#14
  • Sep 26, 2004
  • #14
hey guys,
today i replaced the ignition module and the PIP or stator ( inside the distibutor)

so far so good....

im not sure which one it was but it ran fine tonight

couple techs told me that if you replace the pip (pick up coil) you should replace the ignition module.

and if your up there with the miles
i would go with it

Thanks for all your help.
 
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 26, 2004
#15
  • Sep 26, 2004
  • #15
MATic,
i didnt even bother going to autozone,
i have had enough problems with them in these past few weeks...never going there again
i would go to NAPA or FORD
dont buy that china and *** crap
and the gear was a hard to get off too.
did you notice any green (corison) inside the distributor...?
 

xr8d302

I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
Apr 29, 2004
1,113
0
36
Medicine Hat, AB
Sep 30, 2004
#16
  • Sep 30, 2004
  • #16
thanks for the advice, guys, i had this problem this morning, gave up twice, restarted, i thought it was the in line filter because when i changed it last week, it was fine for a few days, then today, on the way to work, 3 times, she sputtered, died, then the third time, gone, no restarting

really hope this works...what tools do i need for the job?
 
M

mus1994stang

New Member
Aug 17, 2003
89
0
0
Sep 30, 2004
#17
  • Sep 30, 2004
  • #17
xr8d302,

on 94/95s the ignition module is under the
mass air flow sensor and this only requires a few tools ( just some sockets)

i went along and replaced the PIP/stator too
you have to pull of the distributor and take it apart. If your looking to buy a after market distributor id put that in instead.Because the gears are pretty hard to take off the distrubutor.

Any questions ... just ask

im 95% sure this is the problem
cuz it is exactly the same problem i had and its been running good now.
 

xr8d302

I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
Apr 29, 2004
1,113
0
36
Medicine Hat, AB
Sep 30, 2004
#18
  • Sep 30, 2004
  • #18
haha, i'll probably have lots of questions, with pictures...thanks alot. Won't do this till tomorrow though, the weather here's too iffy today.
 
S

smokedsaleen

New Member
Sep 13, 2004
12
0
0
Oct 2, 2004
#19
  • Oct 2, 2004
  • #19
yeah im going to try to take mine out tommorow as well.

Is the pip really hard to replace?

I heard you just take out the dist, mark it, pop out the pin for the pip and replace it.


Did you guys ever find out if it was the module or the PIP?
Thanks
 
S

Silver85TC

New Member
May 28, 2003
130
1
0
Oct 3, 2004
#20
  • Oct 3, 2004
  • #20
smokedsaleen said:
yeah im going to try to take mine out tommorow as well.

Is the pip really hard to replace?

I heard you just take out the dist, mark it, pop out the pin for the pip and replace it.
Click to expand...

It's a bit more involved than that. You need a press to remove/install the distributor gear. Once the gear is removed, it's easy. Read the following link for a step by step procedure;

http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/TFI-PIP/TFI-PIP.htm

The above article says you can use a soft mallet to remove the distributor gear. That won't work. You will need a press.

Hope that helps
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help with a 95 5L crank no start
  • TheBubbaJoe
  • Nov 4, 2025
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
3
Views
446
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Nov 5, 2025
AeroCoupe
A
1987 5.0 speed density Foxbody crank no start
  • Alan2204
  • May 23, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
282
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech May 30, 2026
Mcmahst
7
Engine Random hanging idle
  • 706 Saleen
  • Feb 11, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
9
Views
640
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Feb 19, 2026
86HO5.0
8
Hard to start when engine is cold
  • 86_Capri
  • Mar 11, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
32
Views
967
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 21, 2026
CAMTWO1070
F
2004 Mustang GT – Fuel Pump Not Priming
  • Fayio
  • Apr 22, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
282
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Apr 27, 2026
n0v8or
N
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?