Car running hotter than it should..

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
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New York
Ok, whenever the warm weather comes back, my car runs hotter than it should for the cooling mods I have. Today for instance, it was maybe 60* and my car was running 195*, it did hit 200* for I had the heat on full blast and it cooled down. I know those temps aren't anything thats gonna hurt the car, but it should be running that 'hot' for what I have. I have an sn95 electric fan, pep boys 3 core, mr gasket 180* thermo, stewart pump. I have no leaks and the coolant is fresh. I am wondering if my radiator is wearing out? Pump going? ( I have underdrives) Dying stat? Fwiw, in the winter it runs cool, I dont even need the fan on much, its just only when it gets warm out this happens. It'll probably be worse in the summer. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about pulling my radiator and exchanging it for a new one, I believe its lifetime warranty.

mike
 
Jerry, lean problem is gone. It only gets 'hot' when the weather is warm. Car runs too cool in the winter. I'm thinking radiator, I gotta call pep boys and make sure its lifetime warranty. If it is, ill find my recipt and return it.
 
Just wondering, how are you reading your water temp? Maybe its actually running at 180, and lower in the colder weather. Have you tried running it to see how hot it really gets? I used to worry about my temp, but with the stock gauge I really don't know what its running at. It seems to level off at the half way mark on the gauge, and if it does go past, it usually comes down soon after. What mix of water to antifreeze do you have btw?
 
Blk92, I have an autometer temp gauge and the stock one. Both read the same temps, so I know it's not the gauge. Not 100% sure on antifreeze mix, its fresh, but theres definatly more water in it, 70/30, 60/40 maybe.
 
where are you senders located. there is one decent location with good flow (stock location). the rear plug does not get full flow, so the coolant back there is heated and cooled more radiantly.
if it cools ok on the highway, but not in town in traffic, that suggests fan and related components. if it is hot on the highway too, that suggests clogged rad.
too cool in winter and too hot in moderate temps. that is weird.
 
Autometer sensor is in the front stock location and the stock sensor is in the stat housing. I'm really thinking its the radiator. Gotta dig up my recipt and exchange it for free, lifetime warranty :D Yeah, I know, my problem is weird lol..
 
Nah, over the winter I had a problem with not enough antifreeze and my radiator started slushing up. Luckily I found out before it got worse. I drained out the radiator and put more antifeeze in, the slushing went away. But I had this running hot problem last summer too and I want it fixed before the summer comes b/c I dont want to have to need the heat on full blast this summer!
 
blown93feature said:
your best bet I believe is 75/25 with water /water wetter no antifreeze.That should put it where you want it.all the antifreeze really does is prevent the water from freezing up in your engine in the winter months.
ah i dont know about that. im no expert, but antifreeze does a few things.
it raises the boiling point, as proper pressure in the system does. even with 16 psi of pressure, it does not take a lot to boil off the water.

the antifreeze also provides lubrication for the pump, etc, as well as rust protection. i dont know that water wetter can do all of that. it may; im not well versed in its corrosion prohibiting and lubrication properties.

at the strip it is done for more of a safety concern as far as i know. those cars dont often drive in city traffic.
just my two cents worth.
 
Yo mike you said underdrive pulleys. Are you running the underdrive pulley for the water pump. If so toss it, and put the stock water pump pulley back on. Also do you have the black plastic airm dam that is on the bottom of the car. If not get one, I have notice that they run 10-15* hotter with out one.
 
_JB_ said:
I thought only GT's had the airdamn since the LX's and Cobra's have an opening right in front of the radiator?


I have one on my Lx. Even if they don't come with one. Buy putting one down there, It will only bring more cooler air in. When you have all the bolt ons, on. You want the most air to cool the car.
 
With my experiance the engine will run 15 deg hotter than the stat 180 = 195 = 210. Unless the coolant is very cool in the raditor. cold weater or lots of air across the radiator. If you are that worried return the radiator get your money and buy a 3 core al.
 
Ok, hopefully this afternoon, i'll get a new radiator and see if thats the problem. Hopefully I can find the recipt since the pep boys 3 core should be lifetime warranty. If that doesn't help, i'll get a new thermostat.

On a side note, my car did something very weird today. All of a sudden while driving, the idle went high, about 2k rpm and after about 5 min, my temps were up to 210*. I tried shutting the car off, then restarting it but it didn't help. I got home and started the car up and hour later and it was fine, but while driving, the temps eventually get up to 195-200* and it wasn't all that warm out tonight, maybe low 50's. And its definatly not my elec fan thats the problem b/c I had the car idling for about 10 min waiting for a friend and the temps stayed about 165-170*. It doesnt heat up till I start moving.

Jay, i have the air dam and I don't think the underdrive pump pulley is my problem. If it were, my car should heat up at idle too, but it don't.


mat50ho, my car used to run 180* on the dot, but since last summer I been having cooling problems in the warm weather. I need to fix it this year!

mike
 
Does the car run even hotter if it's under load, or does it just stop climbing at 200? If it continues to climb past 200 when you put a load on it then you have a problem, otherwise you're probably worrying needlessly.

And yes, watter wetter does provide corrosion protection and lubrication, and the stuff works (used it in every race car i've worked on).
 
eric88gt said:
Does the car run even hotter if it's under load, or does it just stop climbing at 200? If it continues to climb past 200 when you put a load on it then you have a problem, otherwise you're probably worrying needlessly.

And yes, watter wetter does provide corrosion protection and lubrication, and the stuff works (used it in every race car i've worked on).

so im curious why everyone in here does not recommend running distilled water and water wetter? (im not trying to be a jerk, but if it is so good, why has no one said anything before)?
i mentioned that for race cars, i understand - the rules and environment are not the same as a car driven in traffic, with 2 years between coolant swaps. please educate me.