Engine Car starts then dies

Andresquintana.mma

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Hey everyone I just built a 93 and converted it to a 5speed from an auto. Bought the car as a roller. Basically rebuilt an engine I had laying around. New everything, water pump, timing cover, all front accessories, fuel pump. The engine was rebuilt doesn’t have much miles. Like 20k or less but was sitting for a while. The car will take a little while to start but when it does start it revs up to about 4K and then dies on me. I’m either thinking vacuum but I double checked the vacuum and it’s mocked up the way it’s supposed to be but with out the egr stuff it’s not in the car. Or maybe fuel pressure regulator. Thanks in advance.
 
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7991LXnSHO

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Is the fuel pressure regulator not in the car or not hooked up to vacuum?
Have you run codes yet to see what the computer thinks it is?
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Is the fuel pressure regulator not in the car or not hooked up to vacuum?
Have you run codes yet to see what the computer thinks it is?
Fuel pressure regulator is hooked up. Just really old. Almost everything else is new but that. The only reason I was even thinking that. I’ll run codes now. First time doing it. Bought one of the code readers for obd1 let’s see if I can get it to work.
 

7991LXnSHO

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You can test the regulator as part of the diagnostic procedure. For now, if the diaphragm has failed, it will usually pull gas through the vacuum tube.

Have you started on the surging idle checklist? Unless @jrichker says another procedure (like the no start checklist) is better for you, this is where I’d start.
 
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Andresquintana.mma

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Ran codes and got 81,82, 84 and 85 with engine off can’t pull codes with the engine on because can’t keep it running.
 

7991LXnSHO

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Are the air injection, EGR and charcoal canister systems present and hooked up?

After addressing those, the IAC, idle screw and TPS are next on the list.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Are the air injection, EGR and charcoal canister systems present and hooked up?

After addressing those, the IAC, idle screw and TPS are next on the list.
The bundle of green and red hoses on the passenger side fire wall are gone. The actual egr valve on the manifold is present. But not hooked up with vacuum. The charcoal canister on the passenger side by the radiator is present and vacuum line is hooked up. Maybe it came off at the gas tank some where. Cleaned IAC with no change, where should I just back out the idle screw and start it like that? Checked voltage on tps with key on and it was .83 I know a lot of the parts were reused when the engine was built plus it sat for a long time. Maybe something is faulty.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Still at a loss, checked for spark getting it all the way to the plug, fuel pump turning on and getting it all the way to the rail. Swapped out fuel injectors still no start, triple checked timing and put it to tdc, made sure all vacuums were connected, blocked off egr my buddy had a plate laying around. Still no change. Put old egr back on now. I re did the timing chan but faced the two dots together and put the new chain the same way. Not to sure what to do next. Thought of swapping fuel pump again but it’s brand new. Need to get an adapter for the gauge I got to see how much fuel pressure I’m getting. This engine ran before I can’t figure it out.
 

General karthief

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Ok, you are all over the place with this just changing stuff willy nilly will not get you started.
Now I figure it will not start at all so some basic stuff:
Will it try to run with starting fluid, if yes then it is a fuel delivery problem
If no than it is a spark/timing/compression issue.
Did you do the checklist?
I would tell you to start with the cranks but no start checklist.
You have to be methodical when diagnosing an efi system.
Jumping around like a monkey on a football will only waste time and money.
 
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Andresquintana.mma

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Nov 28, 2014
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Ok, you are all over the place with this just changing stuff willy nilly will not get you started.
Now I figure it will not start at all so some basic stuff:
Will it try to run with starting fluid, if yes then it is a fuel delivery problem
If no than it is a spark/timing/compression issue.
Did you do the checklist?
I would tell you to start with the cranks but no start checklist.
You have to be methodical when diagnosing an efi system.
Jumping around like a monkey on a football will only waste time and money.
I had actually bought a lot of this stuff new because I was rebuilding the engine and the engine was missing or had a lot of broken/missing parts. I did follow the check list I get spark from the coil and the spark plugs wire number 1 but it kinda seems like it isn't strong enough when it wouldn't start I grabbed the one off my running race car and no luck. I feel like I am getting spark just not sure if it's enough or working at times and failing sometimes. I say that because sometimes I have a hard time getting spark to the block. It also wants to start when I spray starting fluid in it so I checked fuel pump and it's on for sure. I have a gauge to check fuel pressure but didn't have the fitting to put it on the fuel lines. Checked to see if I had gas at the lines just wasn't sure of the pressure Got one today.The new regulator I have is adjustable so I will check for 39 lbs of fuel right now. Of course checked timing and tdc. I'll keep you guys updated. That's where I'm lost is it's getting gas but not sure of how much pressure and it's also getting spark. And timing is good. Checked compression when I was building it so that's good also. Hopefully it's something small that I'm missing. One more question I gave an egr delete plate on there does that change how the vacuum is set up? I'll post fuel pressure shortly.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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No pressure at the line now. Last night it would have gas in the line. Maybe there’s a clog somewhere or it’s kinked. Inertia switch good. Adjusted fuel pressure regulator up and down. Fuel pump turns on with key.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Got the car to run. Bought a msd coil and new factory fuel pump. Dropped fuel pressure to 40 from 45 ran a lot better. Any other tips on tuning the car? It’s timed at 14 degrees I believe, maybe 12 dies t run bad but not perfect.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Update got the car running tried to take it for a drive but kept on dying and sputtering. Anyone know how to make a smoke pump so I can check for vacuum leaks tomorrow.
 

Andresquintana.mma

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Nov 28, 2014
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Ran thru the surging idle check list and still no luck. I have codes 81,82,84 and 85. But I have an egr delete and no egr related parts.
Got a new tps and set it to .82 ran the same as the old one.
Had a new iab but cleaned it again no change. Checked for 12 volts on iab also. Made a smoke pump and ran it thru the vacuums didn’t seem anything coming out I have the egr stuff blocked off. Ac line plugged for now and brake booster ran to far right plug on vacuum tree, new pvc valve and hoses ran to the manifold and tree.
Cleaned salt and pepper connectors. Cleaned and swapped maf sensor with the factory. Ran a little worse because I have 24 lb injectors.
I do have a cold air intake on the inside of the engine bay just until I got a bigger throttle body for my Anderson power pipe. Have a new fuel filter.
made a new ground with a 4g wire since I have a 3g alternator.
i have triple checked my timing and even pulled and swapped the distributor from me running car. Put it on tdc and put the timing to 12 degrees
Don’t really know what else to do it seems like my timing because it kind of backfired here and there a little, throttle response is horrible I can push the gas pedal to the floor and still won’t respond just barley stay on. Also sometimes when I start it it’ll rev pretty high by itself. I’ve adjusted everything I can think of. If needed I can post a video of the car turning on.
 

jrichker

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Ran thru the surging idle check list and still no luck. I have codes 81,82,84 and 85. But I have an egr delete and no egr related parts.
Got a new tps and set it to .82 ran the same as the old one.
Had a new iab but cleaned it again no change. Checked for 12 volts on iab also. Made a smoke pump and ran it thru the vacuums didn’t seem anything coming out I have the egr stuff blocked off. Ac line plugged for now and brake booster ran to far right plug on vacuum tree, new pvc valve and hoses ran to the manifold and tree.
Cleaned salt and pepper connectors. Cleaned and swapped maf sensor with the factory. Ran a little worse because I have 24 lb injectors.
I do have a cold air intake on the inside of the engine bay just until I got a bigger throttle body for my Anderson power pipe. Have a new fuel filter.
made a new ground with a 4g wire since I have a 3g alternator.
i have triple checked my timing and even pulled and swapped the distributor from me running car. Put it on tdc and put the timing to 12 degrees
Don’t really know what else to do it seems like my timing because it kind of backfired here and there a little, throttle response is horrible I can push the gas pedal to the floor and still won’t respond just barley stay on. Also sometimes when I start it it’ll rev pretty high by itself. I’ve adjusted everything I can think of. If needed I can post a video of the car turning on.
It is time to beg, borrow or buy a vacuum gauge to troubleshoot the problem. Most auto parts stores will rent or load one if you have a credit card.

Vacuum Gauge readings