car times slower after mods

Tony01GT

New Member
Dec 16, 2002
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Orland Park, IL
I know the gtech is worth crap but it is good to see gains with mods. but after i put my new tb, intake pipe, superchips tuner, and nitto 315's and 275's, my gtech is showing 2 second loss on the same road from before, but it feels so much stronger i dont understand. also i didnt have the right upper intake so i couldnt put it on, so i just did the 75mm and c&l intake pipe without it. I heard something about setting the voltage on the tb, and i didnt doo anything like that, what are they talking about?is it neccessary?i have an aluminum ds and 4.10s i still need to put on too! i had 3.73's ford racing but baught 4.10s ne ways. if anyone wants to buy them never used pm me
 
Tony01GT said:
I know the gtech is worth crap but it is good to see gains with mods. but after i put my new tb, intake pipe, superchips tuner, and nitto 315's and 275's, my gtech is showing 2 second loss on the same road from before, but it feels so much stronger i dont understand. also i didnt have the right upper intake so i couldnt put it on, so i just did the 75mm and c&l intake pipe without it. I heard something about setting the voltage on the tb, and i didnt doo anything like that, what are they talking about?is it neccessary?i have an aluminum ds and 4.10s i still need to put on too! i had 3.73's ford racing but baught 4.10s ne ways. if anyone wants to buy them never used pm me
Sounds like you hit the nail on the head - The GTech must be worth crap. Either that or you are excessively spinnning the tires...?
No need to mess with a volt meter on the TPS. The only amount of adjustment is the microscopic amount you can turn it while the screws are loose. This only needs adjusting if you have an idle quality problem. If no prob with the idle, don't mess with it. I didn't have to touch mine, though the idle did like to hang around 1200 when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, especially with the A/C on. This corrected itself after about a week of driving. Now it idle like stock.
Did you reset the computer?
 
The GTech is not the greatest

1) Maybe your throttle body is too big. I know there is a school of thought that says you can't have them too big, but if you're trying to maximize total area under the dyno curve, that's not necessarily true. You really want the smallest throttle body you can get away with without hurting your peak power number. I'm not an expert on your exact combination, but it seems like you've done a great deal to open up the upper intake tract and the exhaust, without doing any work on your cylinder heads. I'm not saying you should port your heads (this doesn't always work on the PI heads), I am just putting out a theory. If your heads can't are your bottleneck, opening up the upper intake tract won't help.

2) Weather affects these cars (e.g. the ignition timing) more than most people realize.
 
I agree with Tony! Let's face it, the tires are for looks...mostly. What wheels do you have? If they are heavier too, they are slowing you down and its not just the weight added to the car, but the angular torgue on them.

Don't feel back. I have 10.5 inch wide rims in the back with 285/40's. Next time, i am putting 315's on them. They look awsome. They might slow the car down a tad, but hey, they look like they adds at least 50 hp. :D

If you think I am nuts. Consider this. What is the total weight of one stocker rim and tire? Now, compare that to the weight of the wider rims and tires? Multiply this by 4 (almost, as the fronts are closer to stock). Now think of each wheel/tire as a driveshaft. If you belive the fact that a lighter driveshaft will give you more rwhp, you should be able to see that heavier wheels/tires have the opposite affect.