Car won't start, because of the alarm.

Redsnake2

New Member
Aug 8, 2005
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Philly, PA
I think the alarm is keeping my car from starting. Disarmed the alarm, and turned the key and nothing. Hit the button again and tried to disarm the alarm again and nothing still..

Now in the past when this has kinda happened I would wiggle the B&M shifter and it would start up or I would put the car in neutral and it would start.. Now I know my trans linkage needs to be adjusted but damn, is there a switch on the trans that keeps the car from starting if it thinks it's in gear.. seems like a switch that won't let the car start.
 
the neutral safety and backup light switches are incorporated into the the manual lever position (mlp sensor) also known as the transmission range(tr)sensor on newer models.but anyway the mlp sensor houses the starting circuits for the ignition system to allow the vehicle to be started in park or neutral and determines the transmission gear selection if this sensor is not working or mounted properly you would have the symptoms you are describing...
 
I'm with Bill.

About the alarm angle (which I doubt): Most universal alarm installers wire the starter kill so in order to kill the car, input is needed from the alarm brain. So if the alarm is disconnected, the car can start. Note that not all installers do it like this (for instance, me thinks Shane does it a little different). ;)

Good luck.
 
Thanks guys, I think I'm with Bill also, cause I seem to remember that a friend told me my back up lights were out and it has done this before, but after a few bumps of the shifter it would start. So I think the MLP was going bad and finally just crapped on me at the job.

I have the part, so I'm going in!!!
 
Redsnake2 said:
I have the part, so I'm going in!!!
"Redsnake, this is Control. Do we have a problem? We noticed that you went in about 12 hours ago and have not yet returned."

:D

Just thought we'd see if that fixed it.
 
Nope No luck!!!! After laying under my car for an hour on wet pavement nothing.. So I said maybe its somthing simple so I ran to Pep boys and grabbed a battery. Still no luck!!! So now I'm down to a fuse for the starter or the starter itself... Will keep you guy up dated...
 
:bang: Ok i changed the starter relay and checked the fuses. Still nothing!! Ughhhhhhhhhh Gonna go pick up an ignition module tonight and plug it in tomorrow and see if that fixes it. if it does't then i will have to have it towed to the garage and kick out alot of bucks for something simple.. i know it's something simple:bang: :bang: :bang: :mad:
 
If you trace the crank wire (S-terminal wire) from the ignition switch towards the starter solenoid, you will find where it loses cranking power.

From your previous work, did you have cranking power into and out of the trans switch?

A little systematic troubleshooting should find the issue within short order.

Good luck.
 
Redsnake2 said:
Doing that today, starting at the ignition switch and going to see if its the alarm or what.. Gonna see where it leads me... Hopefuly it's something very simple...
That's the best way to do it. It could be coincidental that the NSS was the fix before. If you have an alarm, the starter kill relay should be wired with the wire from the switch to the common terminal and the other cut end going to the Normally closed terminal. But if it isnt wired that way and/or a wire came loose, that can open the circuit.

Good luck.
 
:bang: :bang: :bang: well today i pinned everything out and the starter relay is clicking so i know it's working and I think i heard the starter seliniod click also. so know Im down to the Ignition module and the starter.. the ignition switch checked out good and so did the alarm..

Going to throw the ig module in tomorrow and see what happens if that does'nt do it then i will put a starter in it during the weekend..
 
The car should crank with a bad ignition module AFAIK. It just wouldnt catch.

SOunds more like a ground issue to me. Jumper cables rock for quick testing. Run them in parallel to check the battery power to the solenoid and as a motor ground.

Good luck.
 
That might be it, but the car is to low to get under it to smack with a hammer.. Me and a couple guys went out during my break and did some more trouble shooting and we all pretty much agree it's the starter.. So I will do a quick test on the starter with my voltmeter and then through another one in if it's bad..

What has me stumped is usually there is some type of warning before the starter goes.. in this case there was none, unless i was just misreading the signs..
 
If you have a crank-signal to the solenoid on the back of the starter (the small wire), and the positive battery cable is sound to the starter, and the motor ground is sufficient (I would REALLY check the motor ground - see the jumper cable idea above, for a quick test), then the starter is left. You can have the old one bench tested before buying new (and if buying a reman'd unit, I would have it bench tested before purchasing it).

Good luck.
 
Glad to hear that you got it figured. :nice: When you did the testing before, did you have 12 volt power while cranking at the starter solenoid?