Car wont start sometimes, idk what to search PLEASE HELP

[mob]

K well like a few weeks or so ago, im at the bank, in line to get money out, as im leaving, car stalls, i think damn, i cant drive if i stalled my car, go to start the car..car wont start, it just keep trying to crank, and trying, and trying and trying, till i give up. So i push it in the parking lot, everything looks fine, idk what wrong, so i go to try and start it again, but i keep taping the key against the end and it some how starts, so i drive home everythings fine. Today i get of school, drop my friend off at his car in the parking lot, go to reverse and car stalls, i think again damn i cant drive if i stall my car, go to start it...again no start. This time when it trys to crank after holding it for like 5 seconds i hear a skckckckksuu type sound some really bad grinding idk how to describe it sounded horrible though. I check engine everyhting looks fine, after about 5 mins of trying to start it, i tell my friend to try it and while i watch the engine, he turns the key, stutters alittle then hear some grinding sounds and she starts. Anyone know what the hell this is? This cant be normal.

Like a month ago, I had Jake Lomotta here in Florida install my pa starter cause my stock one was getting stuck (even though they said nothing was wrong with it..). After alot of problems with them i have my car back, and i look at the start selonoid, and it looks like they didnt even change the factory black wire with the ones my starter included...I think what a ****ty job, ive crawled under my car before though, and ive seen a red wire connected to the start whitch is the one it came with but idk.

And also, i adjusted my idle, to about 700-900ish (i have some surging issues cause of cam) but when it does surge, when it surges back up, sometimes i hear this grinding sound, idk what it is but once it starts everytime it surges back up i hear it and it sounds bad, someone said throwout bearing? idk if that has anything to do with the car not starting. And when im in a low gear and hit the gas it makes that grinding sound also.

ANY help please?? I would have searched but idk what to search, please help! thanks guys

 

[emagdnim]

The car stalling then not starting until random time has passed sounds like a flakey fuel pump i experience a disturbingly similar situation but that does not describe that grinding noise. Can you tell at all where the noise is coming from? If its the throwout bearing it will seem like its coming from under the car kinda... next time the car dies like this check if you can hear the fuel pump turning on , if its quiet in the area you should be able to hear it with the key in the on position. If you dont hear the noise thats what it is.

 

[TooFoxy]

i had very similar problem minus the grinding , but the stalling like it had no power and the not wanting to start back up and turns out it was the piece of dump fuel pump relay under the driver seat. listen to see if the fuel pump primes next time it does it.

 

[mob]

THATS IT! i can belive i never realized it before, i even made a post about this, that my fuel pump WHINES sooo loud, when my car is just running, and its a stock fuel pump, i can hear it over my 2 chamber flows and o/r h, and they said it whines when its about to take a dump, and i remember when i was trying i didnt hear any fuel pump, and once, i noticed something different when i turned the key and i realize it was the furl pump and it almost started but it didnt tht time. thanks alot guys

Im still not sure bout the grinding. Do i need a new fuel pump or relay? ill just go with a 190 from MM its 100 bucks, ill have that installed with my gears in a few weeks, and ill ask powered by ford about the grinding noise, and yes it does kinda sound like its coming from under the car, ill try and get a video of the sound, its gotten alot louder over time, and it started when i lowered my idle

 

[emagdnim]

I got stranded a few times when my fuel pump was going out it was not fun. I could not figure out what the problem was either.. id come back a few hours later and it would start and run fine.

 

[HISSIN50]

Pull the codes. a code 95 or 96 indicates power is being lost to the pump. If no code 95 or 96, the pump might be it.

one can probe the FP relay (under the seat till 92) and note values. This is only really revealing if you have the car acting up.

Good luck.

 

[mob]

how do i pull codes

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

 

[2000xp8]

It's likely the fuel pump like the other guys have said above.

I've had similar problems twice.
My pump even made a grinding noise a couple times (which i think is the gear inside getting destroyed), within a few days it was dead.

 

[jrichker]

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. A tire pressure gauge can also be used if you have one - look for 37-40 PSI. Beware of fire hazard when you do this.