Carb Problems - I'm About to Call a Pro

[D.Hearne]

Ditto, replace the dual advance with a single. ( parts houses still stock these) As for the difference between the Ignitor I & II, the only thing I noticed was the II unit didn't develop a miss after a "hiccup" backfire thru the carb. The "I" did and required rebooting ( turning the ignition completely off) and restarting. As for performance, they're both the same, I can't tell the difference. Bad points? It won't start, hard starting,etc. Just what your problem is now. A good set of points will last you a year at most and require periodical adjustment to keep in tune. Pertronix ? Install it and forget it.

 

[palerider94]

Thanks - I'll go ahead an order the Petronix.

 

[jbuening]

Well if you are going as far as ordering a different vac advance or dizzy, plus a pertronix (which i have heard many problems people have with them) you might as well get a reman'd duraspark dizzy and the duraspark ignition box. The money you have spent on the pertronix and advance, you could have gotten a $45 electronic dizzy and a $10 duraspark box and converted it to a much much more reliable setup. I'm running the duraspark setup and have not had a lick of trouble. Go ahead and get the larger cap unless you like the small cap style. Another thread on adjusting the floats on a holley: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1046915&an=&page=&vc=1

 

[D.Hearne]

If you're going to recommend the Duraspark, then you need to also steer him to a site that's got wiring diagrams for it too. Pertronix has 2 wires between the coil and distributor. Duraspark's got a few more.

 

[krash kendall]

Pertronix II for over a year now - Hasn't skipped a beat.


Points prior to that - Constant problems.

 

[dennis112]

If you're going to recommend the Duraspark, then you need to also steer him to a site that's got wiring diagrams for it too. Pertronix has 2 wires between the coil and distributor. Duraspark's got a few more.

Correct, there are a few more wires to hook up.

Here is the schematic that most people use for the Duraspark.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

And some more info:

http://users3.ev1.net/~bmarr/duraspark_ignition_upgrade.htm

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

http://home.cfl.rr.com/mustangsix/Engine/duraspark.htm

 

[palerider94]

I just ordered the Pertronix 1 and flame thrower. I'm hoping it the points kind of exhausted everything else. Just did not think it was ignition related. Symptom is it basically turns over get a quick fire and and does not start and then you have to go thru process again. I thought if it was points or igntion would not get any firing at all and it would keep cranking. Although to be honest has been 30 years since I had a car with points in it. In any case I'll keep at it until I figure it out - has become an obsession. This weekend for sure!! thanks

 

[doug68hoss]

i got rid of my points on my 289 68..it started to get hard to start.
i eventualluy go to the points ..so i adjust them so they are gapped at specks...starts and runs fine...next time i go to start it..same problem..hard to start..readjust the gap..starts fine..ok whats going on why do i have to keep readjusting the silly thing....turns up the metal platfrom where the points or on..which also turns with the vacuum advance has a hole on it..well it was sorta a hole..egg shaped no longer round..so the slack was enough to make my points out adjustment around half of the time..depending on where the pin was in the egg shaped hole..got a replacement plate.and pertonix things ..no problems since...oh yeah except i sold the car lol

 

[Pakrat]

One other thing to note if this does solve your problem, points and condensor are very cheap and a pertronix like anything is not fool proof, it can fail eventually and stop working. When I replaced mine they were fine, so I keep them as a back up set in my roadside bag in the trunk just in case I ever get stranded. A flat head screw driver and a match book cover as a gap gauge and you are back up and running in minutes, FWIW.

 

[palerider94]

Thanks for the tip - starting to build a roadside kit as time goes on - I'll add that to it.

I'm a little apprehensive about this being the problem. Basically when I turn the ignition, it get a quick fire but does not start and does not allow me to keep cranking. Not like the continuous turning over when you get a bad or short.

But, I was planning on buy electronic ignition anyway.

This weekend I plan on going thru everything using some of the tips from this site to figure it out.

 

[krash kendall]

If it doesn't keep cranking then you may want to check your battery cables, connections, ground strap, battery strength, starter, etc. You hadn't mentioned this at the beginning. It was kinda, real important!

 

[palerider94]

I should be clearer hard to always describe exactly in writing - but itfires up for a less than a second and if you keep turning the ignition you get the same response if you tried turning your igntion if the car was running. I did unplug the coil cap and the car will keep turning over becuase there is no spark - so I don't beleive it is starter/battery/ground related. thanks for checking though.

 

[pabear89]

From you discription, it sounds like your not getting voltage to the coil in the key on-position.

try testing for voltage at the pos side of the coil with the key in the on position.

PB

 

[D.Hearne]

From you discription, it sounds like your not getting voltage to the coil in the key on-position.

try testing for voltage at the pos side of the coil with the key in the on position.

PB

I agree, but the Pertronix unit will help in that regard. The engine will fire faster, letting the alternator boost the voltage to the coil. My 427 would get like this between tune ups. Since I've gotten back into cars and been using Pertronix I, II, and now a Crane Hy-Fire, hard starting is a thing of the past, just a bad memory....................... Only my Merc takes a while to start, and that's due to it sitting a couple weeks between running it. It sits long enough for the fuel to evaporate from the fuel bowls on the carb. Once the fuel gets back in there, it fires right up.

 

[palerider94]

When the key is in the "ON" position no voltage but when I turn the key to the point the engine cranks it does have voltage - is that how it is suppose to work?

 

[pabear89]

With the key On you should have voltage to the coil pos side.
the voltage your getting in start position is from the sol feed.

Check your Ign switch lead to the coil.

Is this a Factory Tach'ed car? could be your tach went bad.

PB

 

[palerider94]

No Tach - but it sounds like we are on to something - How do I check the ingition switch lead? I check the hot wire coming from the firewall harness both the coil + and the electic choke are hooked to it. Same thing No voltage in "ON" but voltage when I put to start.

 

[pabear89]

Check wire continanuity from coil to key.
If it is good your key contacts are bad. replace key assy.

Run a Wire from the positive side of your batt to the pos side of the coil,
turn key to start and it should run.

PB

 

[palerider94]

I'll try tomorrow - thanks - this would explain alot. Appreciate your help!!

 

[palerider94]

Thanks!!!!!!!!

Pabear89 - you are the man!!! Could not wait - tried what you said and it fired right up.. Hooked coil to battery - fired up instantly!! Where do I send the check? Having a cold one right now to celebrate - this one was definitely bugging me. I did order a new harness yesterday when I ordered the petronix. Hopefully that will take care of it - in any case I know what the root problem is now. This site is great, I appreciate everyone that posted help and I hope I can return advice to others in the future.. :SNSign: