Progress Thread Cars alive again, but would these items move on marketplace?

That’s what I was wondering in regards to the controller, which works best? Honestly idk how to wire and that stuff scares me. Saw a kit on lmr but I’m open to suggestions for the fan controller.
I use this controller, it's a Flex-a-lite dual fan variable speed controller. Starts both fans at 60% speed and then ramps up from there so there is less shock to the electrical system. Works perfect for me for the last year.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31165
 
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I use this controller, it's a Flex-a-lite dual fan variable speed controller. Starts both fans at 60% speed and then ramps up from there so there is less shock to the electrical system. Works perfect for me for the last year.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-31165
Thanks a lot man, idk about the wire up but appreciate that. I wanted to take out my old school viper alarm, you know that awesome stand back!! Viper armed!! Ha ha well that siren hanger broke and it fell on the header and got all messed up so now the alarm is basically silent just arms etc but no noise. Then I got scared that I’d unplug something and it would send the car into kill mode. Wiring seems confusing and easy to mess up
 
Thanks a lot man, idk about the wire up but appreciate that. I wanted to take out my old school viper alarm, you know that awesome stand back!! Viper armed!! Ha ha well that siren hanger broke and it fell on the header and got all messed up so now the alarm is basically silent just arms etc but no noise. Then I got scared that I’d unplug something and it would send the car into kill mode. Wiring seems confusing and easy to mess up
The wiring on the FAL controller is incredibly easy and is color coded. The instructions are written very clearly. Do you have the 3g 130amp alternator already?
 
Alright guys so idk what to do, I’m stuck here. So got the new starter in today, it looks like is suppose to and so I w my to install it, slipped in tightened down, super pumped for this and.......... same exact mother f’in thing. It’s got that same grindy sound, wtf!!!! I’m so annoyed idk what could be the problem. I gave away my stock starter so I can’t try it, but I had no issues starting it with the old starter in, would just crank on and run normal. The only thing different I’ve done was put in new bushings in the cross memeber, and a new trans mount. Could that throw anything off with the fly wheel. I’m so over it already, idk what to do.
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Alright guys so idk what to do, I’m stuck here. So got the new starter in today, it looks like is suppose to and so I w my to install it, slipped in tightened down, super pumped for this and.......... same exact mother f’in thing. It’s got that same grindy sound, wtf!!!! I’m so annoyed idk what could be the problem. I gave away my stock starter so I can’t try it, but I had no issues starting it with the old starter in, would just crank on and run normal. The only thing different I’ve done was put in new bushings in the cross memeber, and a new trans mount. Could that throw anything off with the fly wheel. I’m so over it already, idk what to do.

I have the PA starter from LMR and this is how my wiring is. Is yours the same? Large gauge power wire bolted on that goes to positive side of solenoid, smaller 10ga wire with female connector that goes to negative side of solenoid which should be all alone on that post.

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So the small wire on top of the fender solenoid is the wire that goes to the starter? Put a test light on that and make sure that goes out when you start the car. IIRC on my 92 I have constant power on the rear large post of the solenoid to battery. The front large post is by its self going to the starter. What is that light gauge wire that you have on there?
 
So the small wire on top of the fender solenoid is the wire that goes to the starter? Put a test light on that and make sure that goes out when you start the car. IIRC on my 92 I have constant power on the rear large post of the solenoid to battery. The front large post is by its self going to the starter. What is that light gauge wire that you have on there?
The wire on top with the black rubber 90* connector is for the ignition. The mini starter only has two wires, one large power wire that goes to battery post, one small wire that goes to the other post which typically has nothing else on it
 
That really sucks, man !!!

You could try one of these to back it of the flywheel some. Years ago it wasn't uncommon to have to shim a starter when replacing it. It's worth a try.

My local parts stores have them in stock.

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If you didn't change the bellhousing or flywheel everything should still be the same.

The bolts for the starter should go through the starter...then the block plate...and then into the bellhousing. If that thin metal plate is missing that could cause the starter to rub the flywheel.

Could you take a pic of your crank pulley and harmonic balancer ? If the motor was swapped in the past there could be a different tooth flywheel in your car.

The only way to tell, really, is to remove the starter and mark every 10th tooth with bright paint ( nail polish ). The last spot should only have 7 teeth. Mustang 5.0 flywheels are 157 tooth. This meams you'd mark it 15 times with 7 teeth left over.

If your wiring is correct theres a way to test. Make sure the car is in park or neutral ( 5 speed ). Take a piece of wire and run it from battery positive and touch the post with the smaller wire that goes to the starter. If it turns over like normal then your ignition switch is bad. If it makes the bad noise then its something with the starter or flywheel.

What made you replace the first starter ?
 
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I have the PA starter from LMR and this is how my wiring is. Is yours the same? Large gauge power wire bolted on that goes to positive side of solenoid, smaller 10ga wire with female connector that goes to negative side of solenoid which should be all alone on that post.

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Yeah so there are the two large posts on the back, have the old late starter cable to it, the the small post I have the red cable connected to it. Does yours bolt on or is it plugged?
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You know if maybe you have some weird flywheel with an odd tooth count? :scratch:
I don’t think so, no change in flywheel from what it came with originally. Only change was clutch and my tremec t5 other wise it’s stock stuff. Just weird that it was starting up fine before I started the 5 lug swap, changed to this mini starter and now I have this issue.
 
If you jump the solenoid with a screwdriver does the starter work ok?
You might get a junk yard old style starter and see if it works.
You guys don't have your starters wired like mine. Mine is probably wrong!
But mine works?
 
@90sickfox no real reason swapping the starter besides that I wanted one, plus I’m planning on going to long tubes eventually. Motor is the stock original motor car came with. I’m the second owner of the car which I bought from a older lady back in 99 with 35k on it, she only drove it on the weekends etc. I did put pulleys on it but here is the pics. It does have the plate on it, it’s messy down there lol so don’t bash me, plus my balancer looks gross.
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Its wired correct. Looks like correct mechanical parts. Its got to be something simple that we're missing. Have you tried jumping the starter with power to the ignition side ( red/ blue stripe ) or the small starter wire ?

I've seen fender mounted solenoids go bad and hold power to the starter too ling causing noise.... I've also seen ignition switches go bad and hold power to the starter too long also causing noise. If you jump power to the small wire it bypasses both of those scenarios.

I really feel bad for you man....you're so close. You've got to get this thing starting correctly. Ive been there before. Just slow down....calm down...have a sip of something with alcohol in it and get'r done. Then celebrate with a few more drinks. We've all been there.
 
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Its wired correct. Looks like correct mechanical parts. Its got to be something simple that we're missing. Have you tried jumping the starter with power to the ignition side ( red/ blue stripe ) or the small starter wire ?

I've seen fender mounted solenoids go bad and hold power to the starter too ling causing noise.... I've also seen ignition switches go bad and hold power to the starter too long also causing noise. If you jump power to the small wire it bypasses both of those scenarios.

I really feel bad for you man....you're so close. You've got to get this thing starting correctly. Ive been there before. Just slow down....calm down...have a sip of something with alcohol in it and get'r done. Then celebrate with a few more drinks. We've all been there.
Thanks man tell me about it I’m getting frustrated. So I’m gonna try a shimming it and see what happens. Thinking I might even by a reman starter from advance for 60 just to try it. I’m not following you on the wire part, what exactly are you saying to do or try?
 
Ok so about to try this shim out and see if it makes a difference. I bought a stock starter as well so I could compare, seem like on the original one there is a difference in shaft length. Ha that’s what she said! Anyways I measured it and the original version is gapped or sits further back I guess. Think the gear itself also looks smaller on the original as well. These mini starters obviously work right I mean they are selling and people are putting them in with no issues.
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Welp I installed the mini starter with the shim and got the same thing. Can’t figure it out, could it maybe not be the starter but something else? Power steering pump? Idk!! I did pry the plate back to take a look inside and it doesn’t look like it’s hitting, at least not the gear when it’s off. Here’s some vids from different angles, and there is some weird smell like burnt, hot idk how to describe it.

View: https://youtu.be/jMm4b8_ul8g



View: https://youtu.be/FNo1aLkOBtU

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My only other option even though I didn’t want to because I was gonna return it, is put the new big starter in and see if that changes anything. I was hoping the shim would solve the problem and I just bought the big starter to compare.