ccrm pin out

[windsordeath]

LOL! was I getting an ass chewing? Thanks for the prompt reply man.. I have checked and confirmed both engine to body grounds.. at the drivers motor mount..they are clean,dry and properly secured. All connectors under the Battery Junction Box are plugged in, also i have since removed them and checked to see if pins were pushed out or damaged/corroded.. reinstalled them.. I have cleaned all three ground eyelets on the core support and even went as far as replacing a questionable negative terminal which brought my Ohms down to a more acceptable level of .01 at the CCRM/PCM eyelets...

Currently as of this morning I have procured my CCRM pinout from a friend and some PCM power distribution stuff from a EVTM, but nothing that was showing me what was powering fuse 2.2 and 2.8 Thank you for clarifying that.. I was thinking that the EEC relay wasn't energized but wasn't sure if I was headed in the right direction..

 

[windsordeath]

I will come back with more information after I check the CCRM powers and grounds.. One thing to note.. This car is a Saleen and has that Intercooler timer scotchlocked to the CCRM harness. I wiggled the scotchlocks and even went so far as to unplug the box all together but it made no change.

 

[wmburns]

Test the CCRM pin# 8(BK/OG) and confirm +12 volts. The circuit is hot at all times so be careful.

Confirm there is +12 volts at CCRM pin#13 (WH/LB) with the key on. If not, there is a problem at fuse F2.34 (and possible ignition switch problem).

With the key off, measure the resistance from CCRM pin #15 (BK/WH) back to battery negative. Should be low. If not, STOP and find out why.

Finally, confirm +12 volts from CCRM pin #24 (Red). If not +12 volts, the CCRM is bad (assuming the previous tests were OK).

All tests need to be done with the CCRM installed.

 

[windsordeath]

Pin #8 is 12.6v
Pin #13 with key on is 12.4v
Pin #15 with key off is 0.2 Ohms
Pin #24 is 5.4v...

Guess CCRM is bad eh..

 

[windsordeath]

I believe I may have lined up another CCRM to put in its place as a tester.. gonna try that.. I believe it is from a 02' Vert..

 

[windsordeath]

Got another CCRM from an 03' Mach... Did not correct the issue.. Gonna go back and reread and recheck everything..

 

[wmburns]

Did the new CCRM make noise as well?

This is a puzzler. Let's rule out excessive current draw. Remove fuses F2.2 and F2.8. Remove the electrical connectors to each COP.

Re-check the voltage at CCRM pin#24.

If the voltage jumps back to 12 volts, we first need to rule out a high resistance connection. Throughly inspect each pin of the CCRM connector. Look for bent/pushed pins. Look for evidence of over heating or water damage. Pay special attention to the wiring modifications done. Be on the look out for water migration up the wires spliced into.

 

[windsordeath]

Ok, just read your reply.. let me say something first...
Yes, the CCRM was still making noise..
I rechecked ALL values and nothing changed.. So I decided to move on to checking ALL powers and Grounds at the CCRM..

I went from PIN #1 to as far as PIN #11 and found it to be hot when key was in the OFF position..
then proceeded until PIN #16 and found it had EXCESSIVE resistance.. I stopped and made a quick jumper wire to put PIN#16 to chassis ground..

When keyed ON, the CCRM was quiet and the cluster came back ONLINE.. I tried starting it but it din't fire.. anyhow I am now concerned with where PIN#11 and PIN#16 terminate..

 

[wmburns]

Pin #11 is a voltage pin. If grounded, likely this blew a fuse. Go back a recheck the fuses.

There are several grounds to the CCRM. Pins 15,16, 18(non Cobra).

If you look at the diagram sent, note that some pins are "doubled" up to increase current carrying capacity. Pins 8 and 10 for example. So a break there could be the source of the the problem.

When you said that the wires were "hot", did you mean temperature or voltage?

I think you are very close to finding it. It's right there in you hands. The weak ground on pin 16 is a HUGE clue.

OBTW, my upload limit has been reached. I can not upload any more files. You really need your own set of wiring diagrams.

 

[windsordeath]

Excuse me, When I said hot I meant they had Batt. voltage..

Visiting it one last time last night, I noticed PATS was flashing "16".. Is VIN verified through the PCM on New Edge cars? if so I might be FUBAR anyhow..

I'm gonna get my head right.. then go out and blow through all the fuses again...

 

[wmburns]

A couple of things. Is there still low voltage on fuse F2.2 and F2.8? If so, the flashing PATS code is a SYMPTOM of the base problem not the problem.

Why? Because the voltage is too low to active the logic in the PCM. The PCM and PATS have to exchange information. When this information exchange does not happen, a PATS fault is generated.

Has the PCM been changed? Has the cluster been changed? As a reminder on the 99-04 MY Mustang, the PCM and cluster are programmed for EACH other. Change either one and both need to be reprogrammed.

I thought that the opening post gave the impression this car worked before the swap. Is this not accurate?

Besides, PATS can't make the CCRM buzz. Go back and focus on the CCRM, CCRM wiring, CCRM ground, CCRM connector, CCRM itself, and inputs to the CCRM.

Where does the black wire on pin 16 go? What is the resistance value back to battery negative?

 

[windsordeath]

I'm sorry, I'm assuming folks will take my link back to Corral.

This car is an 03' Saleen.. It has a new engine.. due to catastrophic failure of the supercharger.. The customer wants to drive the car in between the time needed for repair or replacement of the blower so we decided to use a GT intake on it.... rather than flashing the computer in the car I decided to use a computer from another car and shelve this Saleen one until the blower issue is rectified..

I have swapped computers in SN's before with PATS and Haven't done so in New Edge cars until now....

I will verify Voltage at Fuses #2 and #8.. relatively sure I have the correct voltage there now as I don't hear CCRM buzzing anymore..

I'll have more info in a bit..

 

[windsordeath]

Ok. closure to my dilemma.. I came back to the car this morning..had to babysit.
I pulled the CCRM connector down to look into maybe making a permanent jumpe and found pin 16 pushed back... i you moved it a certain way the pin would slide back in from tension on the harness. which is why I missed it before... anyhow Pin16 was not seated properly in the CCRM so I pushed it in and found the lock wouldn't hold it.. Of all things I slid the end of a tooth pick in behind the lock in the connector and broke off the excess. Pin doesn't move now.. Put the car back together and it's running great.

Thank you for the Help Mr. Burns..

 

[jasonmw]

I am having similiar issues with my 98 3.8 and have narrowed it down to a ground issue from the pcm that controls the fuel pump relay at the ccrm. I'm glad to hear your issues have been resolved as this type of problem is mind-boggling.
Anyways, in the future if anyone has such issues or needs any help obtaining wiring diagrams for any year/model mustang, pm me. I have a subscription to Mitchell and dont have a problem helping out.



Jasonmw :SNSign:
PRAY FOR THE FALLEN 9/11 WILL NEVER BE FORGOTTEN

 

[4.6modmotor]

Yehh, I'm thinking the same. Was kind of hoping it wasn't, but I've exhaust pretty much everything else. I just got finished running the scanner on it and had access to the GEM module and it is power up ok, it just isn't getting the SCP signal from the PCM. I was also able to get into the ABS and airbag stuff. Everything but the PCM

I guess the thing that was messing me up was I was getting power to the FPDM and had power at the inertia switch. I at first just assumed that the PCM was sending the signal for the 12v hot and it was working. It's just driving me nuts that the cluster did work right after the engine install, and so did the security. And I used to be able to link to the PCM to run datalogging. Now all the PCM connections are gone. And it was right after I noticed the battery voltage was low and charged the battery.

Hey guys, this would be my first time posting here in a while i came across this thread because im in the same boat as ttopmach1. First off ttopmach1 were you able to find a solution.

Here is the back story to my case. I recently had a paint job done and i pulled the motor and installed it once the engine bay and the rest of the car was done. It was put back toghether in a hurry becasue i wanted to make it to a local car show needless to say i couldnt finsh but was able to get running after wards and soon after little by littel started noticeing grounds and wires that were overlooked and not fastened properly now for the most part im pretty sure they are all fastend. The last thing i dealt with before my car decided to go in a coma was the main power wire goin to the distrubution box had been some what loose and caused the car to stall sevral time the last time it happend on the road and i didnt have tools with me so i ended up stuffing a bottle cap to force a good contact and buala it ran great for the rest of the day......until i had gone to pick up my bro we were going to go to the alignment shop and just as i pulled out of his street the car hesitated and shut off as if it had run out of gas.....but ofcourse i had filled up that morning, I checked the bottle cap rig and it had come loose i was hopping it would last the day until i got home so i can fix it properly...o well so much for wishfull thinking this time the car shut off and stayed off......

Sooooooo..... this is where im at, turn the key forward ---------- odometer and the radiator fan kicks on and stays running fast blinking theft light the changes to a repeatative 6 blink 1 blink then after a while the theft light stops its a crank but no start situation

Its pretty obvious the PCM is not powering up if anyone has any ideas im all eyes and ears thanks!

 

[4.6modmotor]

Just an update i managed to figure out what was causing my PCM to not power up. Im posting this here incase others come across this issue and run into this thread as i did which in really only help me get a better understanding of how our cars are wired up. This is what i went through and hopfully it may help someone else.

After checking the CCRM and other components fuses,relays, ect... it was poking me right in the eyes.... Since i had to modify the pig tale harness for the TPS because of an after market lower and uper plenum it some how grounded and fused the wires together. Now first thing i did to test my theory of that bieng the colprate i cut the pig tale from where it first showed signs of melting insulation then separated the three tips i then turned the key forward and bwala the milage was reading again i head my noisey SCT focus pump perge. Once that was done I turned the key back luckly i had an extra engine harness lying around cliped the TPS pigtale from it and solderd it to vehicle's harnes now im back on the road.

Im no mechanic just a DIY kinda guy i know if i had taken it to any ohter shop i would have been ripped a new a hole my advice to anyone in a simaler situation dont give up!

 

[95_stang]

wow ive been looking forever for a solution to my problem. im having a case very similar to all you guys. i have a 2001 saleen s281 my motor blew up awhile back so i decided to swap the motor out to a 95 mark 8 motor easy swap. or so i thought. i originally was using my stock harness and ecu. well somehow some injector wire got pinched inbetween the throttle body and intake manifold and ended up frying my ecu. well i bought a new ecu and it ran fine for awhile. i went out to start it and finish up the car one day and boom nothing. wont crank or anything. so i was talking to some people and i altered my harness to use cobra coils so i figured maybe the harness was fryed also. so i decided to buy a 03 04 mach 1 harness and ecu. figured thatd help but no thatd be to easy. i was very frustrated at this point so i let the car sit for a few months while i did research. i went out to work on it one day and now the obd 2 port wont connect to ne thing ive checked to see if it has power and it does. then i thought aybe the starter went bad. took it out and checked it and it still works. i then got a jumper wire from the batter to the signal wire for the starter while it was in the car. doing that allowed the car to turn over. when i turn the key the gauge cluster and light go out but when its on accesory the theft light blinks "16" code. i had the car at ford dor awhile to get my new computer programmed with the gauge cluster and keys but they cant do it because of the obd2 port. im so frustrated and have no clue where to go from here please help!!!!

 

[wmburns]

95_stang, are you doing the work yourself? Do you have a full set of wiring diagrams? For a problem such as this, the wiring diagrams are vital. If interested in getting a set for yourself I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

Once you have the wiring diagrams, a problem like this should be in it's own thread. Good luck.

 

[js1916005]

8 years later and I am researching the same problem after 306+c5 swap and I repositioned the battery. Ive found the issue and it might not help the OP but hopefully future problem havers

It turns out there is a small 2 pin plug under the fusebox on the driver side, the plug is black and has two black or black with white striped wires going to the connector from the harness. The other side just has two black wires going to the ground screw on the core support just to the left of the battery if standing over the driver fender.

Its the wire I have looped in this image, I reconnected that plug (after I actually threw it away) and my problems went away. My odometer came back and it no longer buzzes!