Centerforce owners get in here!

[crew_dawg16]

Not quite sure what happened on my way home today, so I'll explain it to you guys and hopefully you can answer my question.

On the way home, pulled up next to an old Mach 1 and he revs his engine at me. I show him what 4.10s are made for and light up the tires through 1st and part of 2nd before I let off.

I just installed my dual friction clutch yesterday and had babied it for the last 50 miles. My clutch pedal height was extremely high, it almost felt like the clutch wouldn't fully engage. After the romp I had with the Mach 1, my clutch pedal height was at the floor. It starts to grab as soon as I move my foot off the floor. I killed it at the next stop light because of this and it felt to me like it wouldn't fully disengage. However, it works fine while shifting even if I only push the pedal halfway.

Question: Did my clutch disc settle or something? The clutch starts grabbing lower than the stock clutch and feels REAL solid.

Also, while pulling into a parking space at slow speed holding the pedal in, I think it is chattering. I've never heard what "chattering" sounds like before, but it feels like the clutch is trying to grab and it makes a very fast, very quiet clunk that I can feel in the drivetrain. It stops after a second or two.

Any suggestions? Is everything normal?

 

[crew_dawg16]

bump

 

[crew_dawg16]

is it my quadrant? I looked under the hood and it looked fine.

 

[2002BLGT]

look on steedas website and get you an adjustable clutch cable and aluminum quadrant assembly ....

 

[Redfire03GT]

This has happened to me a number of times. I think the tension in your cable is too loose after a couple of hard smashes on the clutch. Check the cable tension and check the quadrant. They just might need adjusting. Although, I'd suggest an after market quadrant/cable adjuster.

edit: correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't the quadrant the part that's next to your clutch pedal under the dash that holds the end of the cable? Looks like a white plastic trianglur piece.

 

[Mr GT 02]

yea that white plastic peice of **** is the stock quadrant! Damn it is so inconsistant

 

[tygr1]

With 50 miles on it? You may have just ruined your 'new' Centerforce...I hope not.

I hope it's something with the cable.

It's also definitely NOT normal to have any chatter with a new Dual Friction.

Kids....sheesh!

 

[Route666]

Doesn't the Centreforce website say you should give the clutch 500 miles of break in?

 

[crew_dawg16]

a lot of new parts have suggested break in periods. That being said, a quick 1-2 shift in my car is not going to ruin a centerforce clutch that holds 90% more power than stock. If it was that weak, nobody would buy one. The quadrant is under the pedal, huh? I'll check that then, it must be the firewall adjuster I'm looking at. It would make sense if that piece of plastic is bending or something as to why my clutch is inconsistent.

 

[BossShinoda9701]

Yes there is a 500 mile break in period for the Centerforce DF.

Did you make sure you re-surfaced your flywheel first?

I have had two in my car so far and the two mistakes I made the first time was:

1. Didn't resurface the flywheel
2. Put full power to clutch before break-in period

You have to let both sides of the clutch set their "groove" before spinning it too fast.

10,000 miles later and it was ready for a new clutch....Now I have had the one in, after babying it for 500 miles, for 2 years and still going strong!!!

Also put Steeda quadrant (under dash) and firewall adjuster on and helps a lot. Make sure you get the firewall adjuster with the allen head screw to tighten so adjuster wont move from vibrations.

I like the grab of Centerforce, but I am going with Spec III next time...NO BREAK IN PERIOD !!

 

[Jay99]

ok heres the top things needed when doing a clutch job on a mustang.

1. resurfaced and/or new flywheel
2. backing off the self adjusting clutch adjuster/ or aftermarket firewall adjuster. readjust after clutch is fully installed
3. new pilot and throwout bearings

all this helps ensure the best possible install and satisfaction. other previous posts picked on most of this, but it sounds like you never backed off and readjusted the factory adjuster, or simply your adjuster got stripped. in either case its best to have an after market adjuster. I would start there first. I have steeda's full kit.

or possibly some piece(s) in your centerforce kit are defective.

 

[crew_dawg16]

well, i did get my flywheel resurfaced, what it seems like is that the clutch cable is too short or long, it feels like there should be more travel after my pedal touches the floor. It starts to grab as soon as i lift my foot off the floor.

What could have caused my clutch pedal height to change so drastically after a short romp? I'm guessing its from the aggresive push on the pedal as opposed to spinning the clutch to 5500 rpm.

 

[crew_dawg16]

how do you back off the stock adjuster?

 

[Jay99]

hmm well first off follow your pedal up to the pivot point, trace it to the right (i think its just before gas pedal pivot)and look at the big white plastic assy attached to your clutch cable.

http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/clutcha.htm

 

[Route666]

a lot of new parts have suggested break in periods. That being said, a quick 1-2 shift in my car is not going to ruin a centerforce clutch that holds 90% more power than stock. If it was that weak, nobody would buy one. The quadrant is under the pedal, huh? I'll check that then, it must be the firewall adjuster I'm looking at. It would make sense if that piece of plastic is bending or something as to why my clutch is inconsistent.

I think the thing with clutches is that they are like brakes, for the engine. Pads need to be seasoned and bedded, well performance ones usually need seasoning, so a performance clutch may have the same requirement. I think glazing the material is what happens if you heat it too much while it is still "green". Your clutch may support 190% of stock power, once it is broken in, meaning that beforehand it is most likely not very grippy, just like brakes, outgassing the excessive binding compound. I doubt this would cause inconsistancy, I think it would be consistantly crap, so the quadrant theory sounds right.

It also sounds like you haven't seen a clutch quadrant, it looks well, as it is named, like a quadrant, a quarter of a circle. It has the clutch cable looped over it, should be easy to spot, and you should be able to see if it has any stress lines in it, if it creased at all, but it doesn't have to be creased to flex, and I'd upgrade to an alloy one anyway.