Changed the brakes.. no pedal pressure.

[WillDuhhBeast]

I'm not big on brakes, but I know the basics..


I changed my rear rotors and used my stock calipers. All was well.


The next day I went in to change my front calipars, hoses, rotors and pads, and all hell broke loose. For one, one of the caliper bolts was stripped, so that took an hour +. Finally got it all installed and began to bleed the brakes.. but we NEVER found any pedal pressure. We spent close to an hour bleeding every caliper, including the rear and never regained pedal pressure.



Any ideas on what could be the problem? We found no actual leakage of fluid from anywhere.


I'm lost.

 

[squares98]

you didnt run the system dry did you. Ive heard that causes your symptoms

 

[DTNODYA]

My recommendation would be to:

Fill your brake fluid resovoir,
Bleed your brakes again, starting at the rear right tire (farthest from the resovoir), then do your rear left tire. Next do the front right then front left. During the process, keep filling the resovoir because if you don't, air will get into the system and will cause the mushy pedal that you probably have now.

 

[WillDuhhBeast]

I think I might reinstall my factory hoses and see if that solves the problem. I get this huge feeling that there is a bad connection or something somewhere thats allowing air in.

 

[CRZYHRSGT]

I agree with DTNODYA. Also, if you got air in your master cylinder, you mght need to bleed it as well. There are a couple bleeder screws on the side of it on the engine side. You bleed it the same way as the 4 corners...

 

[Mustang5L5]

I agree with DTNODYA. Also, if you got air in your master cylinder, you mght need to bleed it as well. There are a couple bleeder screws on the side of it on the engine side. You bleed it the same way as the 4 corners...

Normally there is no need to touch these bleeder screws, however everytime someone has a problem bleeding their brakes they usually have to bleed from these screws and it solves their probs

 

[CRZYHRSGT]

I had the same pedal problem after doing front & rear calipers. I'd never thought of touching the master cylinder but someone on here mentioned it. Sure as ***t I tried it and they worked great afterwards.

 

[WillDuhhBeast]

Thanks for your help guys, we contemplated bleeding the master cylinder, even considered if it went bad.


We'll try a few things tomorrow. =)

 

[bdcardinal]

according to my brake bleeding book at work, the bleeding precedure for our mustangs is MC, RR, LR, RF, LF, repeat.

 

[mity2]

isn't there bleeder on ABS module? i know my T/A does...

 

[bdcardinal]

no touchy the ABS module. unless you have a scan tool handy. i do all my bleeding with an automatic refiller on the master so it never goes dry.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

WillDuhhBeast did you let the resevior run dry?

Also, speed bleeders make the job much easier they are $5 per caliper.

 

[Mustang5L5]

AZ sells the speed bleeders. They are in th red HELP! packaging.


Anyone know what size threads we have? Are the M1.0 x what?

 

[CRZYHRSGT]

The Speedbleeder part numbers are as follows...

94-98 Mustang front---------------SB3824
99-04 Mustang V6/GT front-------SB1010
94-04 Cobra/Bullitt/Mach1 front--SB1010S
94-04 all Mustang rear------------SB1010S

Dimensions --- thread size / overall length, in.(mm):

SB3824----------3/8 x 24------1.29 (39.89)
SB1010----------M10 x 1.0-----1.35 (34.44)
SB1010S--------M10 x 1.0-----1.23 (31.35)

 

[DTNODYA]

according to my brake bleeding book at work, the bleeding precedure for our mustangs is MC, RR, LR, RF, LF, repeat.

I didn't do my MC but that procedure would definitely work fine. Especially since the book says so.

 

[bdcardinal]

im so glad my car doesnt have ABS, it only makes bleeding a nightmare. the only time ive ever wanted it was when i locked up the right front stopping hard from 100mph. flatspotted one of my fronts, and left a 200ft skidmark on the road.

 

[WillDuhhBeast]

Turns out the master cylinder must have gotten air in it. We bled it in about 5 minutes this morning and the brakes have never felt better.

Appreciate all of yall for helping.


I learned quite a bit about the brake system.

 

[Mustang5L5]

im so glad my car doesnt have ABS, it only makes bleeding a nightmare.

Only if you let the system run dry. Other that that it's no different than a non-ABS car. With the car off (or the fuse pulled) all the valves and such inside the ABS are open and the brakes work same as non-ABS

 

[96SCstang]

dont blow a gasket dude...take a deep breath and listen

you changed out a lot of things on your front brakes. now most people dont really know how to bleed a brake system right so.....i will explain front to back. dont take any hoses off because that is not your problem. first of all i am guessing that you let the master cylinder go dry. so you find a buddy and get him in the drivers seat. now fill the master and have him press the brake pedal down. when it is all the way down..open the two brake line fittings up a little bit untill fluid comes out. then close them back up and have your friend let off the pedal only if the fittings are tightly closed. otherwise you will let in air agian. repeat this a few times or untill you think there is no more air in master. now like someone said before start at the right rear and bleed that out..then the left rear, right front, and left front. you should have a good pedal now. if not you may have air in your abs module. which is totally different procedure, but try this and see wut happens.. gl

 

[Mustang5L5]

Um, he already posted that he fixed it and is all set.