Changing out guages

69Mach351

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Apr 14, 2005
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Anyone done this and how hard is it? Which are ones to look at and which do I stay away from? I have a 69 Mach One 351 4v and am going to electronic ignition (MSD 6AL and Pertronix points replacer) if it makes much of a difference. I was thinking about changing out the guages so they would at least be accurate (tach for one) I havent looked into doing something like this before so i dont know if its something i should tackle. I have rebuilt motors, done rear ends etc, cant imagine this being extremely diffucult
 
I don't know about the whole rewiring part for new guages, but getting them out is fairly simple. Just undo the 3 screws on the top off the dash and thne the ones on the edges and above the radio. Take off the dash pad. Then simply unscrew the guage cluster and remove the wiring clip and speedo cable and it sould come right out. Do you have a tach in the car right now? Or are you wanting to rewire it for a factory tach, if so I can help you with that.
 
Here's what I did.
 

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One of our more extreme mod members named Corpse did an excellent job of modifying the stock gauge pod to accept the new JBA?? gauges since he did not want to pay the huge price they chrarge for their custom pod. It was a year or two ago but as I recall he had to fab some new inner holders out of PVC pipe to line them up and then glass them in and fabricate some fastners to hold them in place. I tried to search for it but came up empty. I see him pop up on AOL IM so I'll try to ask him about it.
 
It was fairly easy to put those gauges in, they are a perfect fit. I used all the factory pieces, just had to cut out the back to accommodate for the deeper gauges. I used the brackets that come with the gauges to hold them in place. Made my own wiring. I bought a junky gauge cluster for $10 and used that to cut up and just used my original wood grain face. I'd go with an electric speedo though.
 
1969mach1351 said:
It was fairly easy to put those gauges in, they are a perfect fit. I used all the factory pieces, just had to cut out the back to accommodate for the deeper gauges. I used the brackets that come with the gauges to hold them in place. Made my own wiring. I bought a junky gauge cluster for $10 and used that to cut up and just used my original wood grain face. I'd go with an electric speedo though.
how hard was everything to wire?
 
Well since you can hook all the gauges together you basically only need to run one keyed power source, one good ground, and one wire that comes on with your lights. And of course one wire going out to each sender unit.

Heres a pic of my three wired up.
 

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Pakrat said:
One of our more extreme mod members named Corpse did an excellent job of modifying the stock gauge pod to accept the new JBA?? gauges since he did not want to pay the huge price they chrarge for their custom pod. It was a year or two ago but as I recall he had to fab some new inner holders out of PVC pipe to line them up and then glass them in and fabricate some fastners to hold them in place. I tried to search for it but came up empty. I see him pop up on AOL IM so I'll try to ask him about it.

They were AutoMeter gauges, using their monster 5" gauges for the speedo and tach. Since this thread is mostly about wiring, I don't have much to contribute.. But like, I wired mine, and the car didn't catch on fire, and I think it all still works, and I did mine the way everyone here is talking about..
 
corpse said:
They were AutoMeter gauges, using their monster 5" gauges for the speedo and tach. Since this thread is mostly about wiring, I don't have much to contribute.. But like, I wired mine, and the car didn't catch on fire, and I think it all still works, and I did mine the way everyone here is talking about..


hey corpsey, what's up? where ya been man? how's the car coming?
 
bnickel said:
hey corpsey, what's up? where ya been man? how's the car coming?

eh, it's coming along very slowly.. the gas tank is at the shop, preparing to get a notch welded to allow the quick change to fit.

For whoever is interested - I found some of my pics of the gauges, so here they are...
pvc end cap used as the mounting cup for directional lights
gauges_howto_ts_cu.jpg


Here's the outter gauges mounted up.. Here you can see the cavity where the directional lights will go into..
smg_Structure_signalhousing_1.jpg


Side gauges complete, ready to be mounted. Yes, it looks crazy, but the purpose of this elaborate setup will be realized in the pics below.
smg_structure_sideview2.jpg


Preparing the monster gauges.. the white plastic is 5" PVC tubing, very carefully cut and hand ground to fit the gauge..
gauges_howto_pvc_backside_bounded.jpg


This next pic shows it all laid out on the cluster.. You'll notice the fiberglassed tabs for the mounting points, and the strips between the 2 big tunnels to help stabilize everything.
gauges_howto_inplace_back.jpg


Getting close to being done...
bgg_backview_almostdone_1.jpg


I don't have a picture of the final setup - but the tab that appears to be unused on the big tunnels is used for a third support for the big gauge, as just 2 mounting points make those big honkers more likely to tilt..

Here's a couple pictures of the gauges lit up...
dash_litup_darkerred.jpg

The high beam indicator is a blue led in the top of the speedo tunnel, as seen here - cool lighting effect against the red.
dash_litup_lights_with_highbeam.jpg


Here is the best turn signal picture I have... Now you see why I wanted the gauge to "float" above its housing point - as it creates a halo affect around the gauge..
smg_mounted_fuel_turnlit_gaugelit.jpg