Cheap Modifications...

Strype · Aug 9, 2006

Okay, so MyBad70 got my electric fan on last night and I was thinking, what else can I do to this car for cheap horsepower? So I'm making a list of what I have.

Air Silencer Removed
K&N Cone Filter
Timing Bump from 10-16 degrees
TPS set to .99
Short Belt to bypass Smog Pump
Electric Fan
FlowMasters
H-pipe
After Market Tail Pipes
Delete Hose from Valve Cover to Throttle Body
70mm Throttle Body w/ blank spacer
76mm Mass Air Meter
65mm Explorer Intake w/ 1" spacer
3.73 Gears
Blaster Coil
Subframe Connectors
Underdrive Pulleys
Mickey ET Street Radials

I know I'm missing headers & roller rockers what else can I do for cheap w/o buying heads

Also, anybody got any dyno #'s or Track Times for a full bolt on car??? I refuse to take off the dogbone or the sway bar or change to drag shocks or springs

FSTRDNU · Aug 9, 2006

12.6 w/ slicks, with a cobra intake, stock cam, boltons, and slicks on a 3100 lb speed density hatch

Strype · Aug 9, 2006

FSTRDNU said:
12.6 w/ slicks, with a cobra intake, stock cam, boltons, and slicks on a 3100 lb speed density hatch

So I could get into the 12's theoretically once I get it all put on?

RUNINAGT · Aug 9, 2006

Does it affect anything by bypassing the smog pump.. I think I remember doing that on my 86. Can I just install a smaller belt. Do you know what the belt part # was. Theres a tube going to the exhaust, do you just plug it off?? Mine is still operational, but I would like to free up some pony's as well, does it make that much of a difference?
I know a bunch of questions thrown in one paragraph.

ryan218 · Aug 9, 2006

Strype · Aug 9, 2006

RUNINAGT said:
Does it affect anything by bypassing the smog pump.. I think I remember doing that on my 86.

Just makes your car a little stinky

RUNINAGT said:
Can I just install a smaller belt.

Yep!

RUNINAGT said:
Do you know what the belt part # was.

Hmmm... I had one underdrive on the crank. Go to autozone and just bug the hek out of them, that's what I do

RUNINAGT said:
Theres a tube going to the exhaust, do you just plug it off??

Yep

RUNINAGT said:
Mine is still operational, but I would like to free up some pony's as well, does it make that much of a difference?

You can tell

RUNINAGT said:
I know a bunch of questions thrown in one paragraph.

That's alright

88gt · Aug 9, 2006

Strype needs a cookie for being so efficient!!!!:SNSign:

Strype · Aug 9, 2006

88gt said:
Strype needs a cookie for being so efficient!!!!:SNSign:

View attachment 449673

88GT17MA · Aug 9, 2006

mud flaps

RUNINAGT · Aug 9, 2006

OK then I might attemp that this weekend. Im bringing it to the shop on Sat to replace rear wheel cylinders,(fluid leak @ backing plate on driver rear hope its just wheel cylinders and not axle seal.) I might just do it then.
Stype thanks for the answers.

FSTRDNU · Aug 9, 2006

my DD is a full bolton 119k stock 93 with unported e7's, and just about every bolton in the book, but i do have an e-cam

gruvee87vertgt · Aug 9, 2006

How do i adjust the tps? and how does that help?

Aliate X · Aug 9, 2006

I dunno if Id go with MT's for that setup.

Reed · Aug 9, 2006

Hey, how does removing the tube from valve cover to TB add horses?

5.0Droptop · Aug 9, 2006

Port your lower intake at home and gain some free ponies..

jrichker · Aug 9, 2006

n a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.

*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

grey5.0beast · Aug 9, 2006

thats a damn fine post!

GreatWhite · Aug 9, 2006

Is there anyway a 200amp inline fuse would harm or hinder the charging of the 3G system?

grey5.0beast · Aug 9, 2006

got a 200 amp eh?

lol

Strype · Aug 9, 2006

Thanks for the replies guys

Reed said:
Hey, how does removing the tube from valve cover to TB add horses?

We have a saying in Alabama...

"The cooler the air- the hotter the fire"

"Fire" is pronounced "Far"

That is HOT HOT HOT air being sucked right into your throttle body my friend

gruvee87vertgt said:
How do i adjust the tps? and how does that help?

It's not a hp adder, but it does increase throttle response. Goto Walmart and get a "Volt Meter" (yellow digital) from the automotive section. Place a pin through the Green (I think I'll double check the holes in mine) and through the black wires.

Now, place the meter on .20 on the dial on the right at about 3-4 o'clock.

Put the key in the ignition and place it in the on position.

When you touch the black meter wire to the black pin, and the red meter wire to the green pin, you should get between .90 and .99.

If not, shave the plastic off of the inside of the screw hole on the tps sensor until you can rotate it clock wise enough to get that reading.

PS: I've done it 10 times and still can't remember, I believe it's the green and not the orange, but search the site to make sure.

Whew

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