hey guys so i had a mechanic come look at my car and he told me one of my sensors was broken thats why i had a check engine light on. so i replaced it . i then took battery off for 209 mins and started my mustang backup, check engine light whent away! so happy. so then i took it out for a test drive, (the engine was prety warm) and seemed to work fine but hwen i came to a stop light and after about sittings there for bout 1 minute my engine rpms whent really low then the car shut off!! i turned it back on and took off becuase evveryone was honking at me lol. but yeah then the check engine came back on. Was my engine just to cold or what happend i need to gget the check engine to go away kuz i need to get it smogged soon. ...now 2nd proiblem i have found that my scraping sound wile having other people in the car is becuase my e-brake lines are hitting my drive shaft. i tryed banging the braket with a hammer but i think it mite be aluminum, and i cant get it to bend more upward to get it out of the way,, anyone else have a fix for this also???thanks i can also upload pics tomaro of the e-brake thing.thanks
check engine light/ brakes scrape
- Thread starter 94mustang0886
- Start date
MustangLX-5.0
Founding Member
Go to a parts store like Advance Auto and havve them pull the CE codes. They can do it for free. Your CE light is coming on for some reason... probably the same reason why it stalled out. I can't really tell you much more unless I know what the code is.
Get a pic of the brake line where it is scraping if you can. The lines shouldn,t be no where near the driveshaft. Is it scraping near where the cable comes from the e-brake handle, or more near the back? Does your e-brake work?
Get a pic of the brake line where it is scraping if you can. The lines shouldn,t be no where near the driveshaft. Is it scraping near where the cable comes from the e-brake handle, or more near the back? Does your e-brake work?
well i had a mechanic pull out the code and jtell me that it was a sensor that has two vacuum holes on each side it looks like a little canister. dont know what type of sensor it is though . so i bought a new one and replaced it and now when i take batter off for 20 mins the check engine gos away but the engine will stall when i get to a stop light when its in drive. then check engine will come back on.i think it might be becuase i didint reset computer correctly. what would be the correct procedure to reset it. and will try to take a picture today of e-brake lines hitting drivshaft. its supper annoying though. you can tell they hitt becuase the rubber on hte line is worn out and on the drivshaft you can see a polish.
oh and also just now i lifted the car up and hit the braket that was bent down that made the e-brakes scrape with a hammer i bent it back up to body prety close and now tthe scraping is prety much gone!! it still scrapes tiinnnnnny bit on bumps but its alrad ygeting dark over here, so ill try and work on it another day.
hotrodredneck
New Member
MustangLX-5.0
Founding Member
That little canister thing with the two vacuum holes is the evaporative emissions purge control solenoid. All it does is open or close to let stored fuel tank gases get sucked in to the intake for burning during idle. The Evap canister stores excess gases, the solenoid just lets the fumes flow. Having a CE light associated with the evaporative emissions system is very common occurence on these model year stangs. So much so that it should have been a recall. But anyway, the evap system would not cause the stalling you are experiencing.. It might run a little rough from excess fumes, but not stall. Something else is causing it. Disconnecting the battery to clear the codes only erases the codes in memory, it doesn't fix the cause, that's why the CE light comes right back on. There were probably more codes . Forget the mechanic, just take it to a parts store and have someone come out and scan it. Have them write down the codes (all codes) that way you can remember them. I don't trust mechanics...sorry. Ever since I was botched 7 years ago, I have done practically ALL work and maintanance since then. That amounts to quite a LOT of savings and experience. I don't let someone else touch my car/s. You did pretty good by at least replacing the sensor on your own. Get yourself a manual like Haynes or Chiltons. You can learn a lot from them
hotrodredneck
New Member
ok ill try and get those codes by tomaro. so guys i thought i fixed the scraping sound but i guess not. i drove today with cople people and still i get scraping sound what could it be my tired do not hit the frame! and on top of that it only makes the sound when i have my foot on the gas when i take foot off gas it goes away or when i am braking what the hek could it be. and it also at cople of times sounded like metal scrathing but only few time. what could it be.????? im so stumped.
hotrodredneck
New Member
not picking on you, but I had to read that reply like ten times to understand it. ;-)
so, the scaping sound only comes when you have your foot on the gas? and when braking? lift up your car by the center of the rear axle and then go under it and tr to shake the drive shaft. If it has play in it then your pinion bearing is shot. if not, check your universal joints for play.
so, the scaping sound only comes when you have your foot on the gas? and when braking? lift up your car by the center of the rear axle and then go under it and tr to shake the drive shaft. If it has play in it then your pinion bearing is shot. if not, check your universal joints for play.
soory iol i write my posts extremely fast , i always busy soory dont wanna seem like a dummy or anything i can spell and write , i just write really quick. oh but yeah it makes the sound when i have foot on gas vbut not on the brake. when i let go of gas its fine just when i i put foot on gas.the sound is really quite horrible, it happens when i have 2 or three other people in car.what could be problem?
MustangLX-5.0
Founding Member
It's actually very simple. You thought you got rid of the noise...well you did, but when you step on the gas hard enough, the front end lifts up a little and the back end sinks down. The E-Brake assembly is attached to the body, almost centered. When the car squats down enough, the E-brake ass'y moves with it, BUT the drive shaft dont as it moves independently from the rest oft car. Therefore the E-brake once again is hitting the driveshaft momentarily. It goes away when braking because the back end lifts up. There is more G's toward the front as the front brakes apply more force to slow the car. This is also why it scrapes when you have a couple extra people in the car. Think about it.. the weight is dropping the body AND the E-brake ass'y and.... scrrrrape. Get a pic of that E-braake ass'y would you.. There has to be some kind of damage to it. That... and your rear springs may be worn a bit. I wouldn't doubt it. I had to to replace my rear springs 2 years ago. It was sagging way too much back there. And I was getting scraping from the rear. New springs fixed it...and they were rather easy to install. Yours would have worn sooner . Convertibles weight a bit more and the type of springs they use for those aren't all that much more heavy duty than non-verts.. and with your current mileage..yeah ..they are worn.
thanx yeah i was thinking that two how probly just still hitting i will upload pics tomaro on this post. for sure dont got as much hw tomaro night so i will step to it. i bent back that braket but car probably sitting to low kuz uf springs.thanx for helping me out first car , and im alrady putting lot of money in to it.
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