Is it longer than the stock one?I'm running the on3 kit melted my first cable first time out, I then replaced the cable with this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7553-E302
and sleeved the cable with this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSP-204012 been running it this way for about 3 years now
Any of the aftermarket cables for a 96-04 should be the 72" ones..Is it longer than the stock one?
Soon as the Mm cable comes back I’ll do it. I’m not gonna use the steeda cable now because I had that and it melted with heat wrap on it. I found a 96 length cable and heat wrapped it so hopefully this routing works. I appreciate the advice.Man, I've been at this a long time. I've put multiple transmissions in, including a T56 in all 3 of my current foxbodies. I've had all kinds of routing issues with my turbo kits. I have had the clutch cable problems with many aftermarket companies. Please just take my advice and save yourself time. Steeda (MM if you ever need one again)... heat wrap (use the link I sent & metal bands to secure it)... done.
Yeah that makes sense. I did go with the cable you suggested and got it routed (see picture below.) so hopefully it’ll last a while.That's because 95% of the companies sales reps don't know a damn thing about what the sell any more, its been that way for a while now.. A fox cable wouldn't reach on a 96-04 its 11inches shorter and uses a different mounting bracket
Ok... The thing to be aware of is cable stretch, leading to binding. Maybe the 3rd parties have gotten better since I dabbled, but if not you'll get to a point that pushing it to the floor still fails to disengage the motor from trans. Of course you'll eventually max out the range of adjustment Then, either the cable will snap, or become so hard to push down, you'd want to sell your car, at least, I almost did.Soon as the Mm cable comes back I’ll do it. I’m not gonna use the steeda cable now because I had that and it melted with heat wrap on it. I found a 96 length cable and heat wrapped it so hopefully this routing works. I appreciate the advice.
I’d rather not spend 600$ on that at this time.Can you go hydraulic? If so I would think that would permanently solve the issue.
Yeah for sure Ik what you’re talking about. I barely drive it anymore so if that happens it’ll take a long time and hopefully that MM cable is available by then.Ok... The thing to be aware of is cable stretch, leading to binding. Maybe the 3rd parties have gotten better since I dabbled, but if not you'll get to a point that pushing it to the floor still fails to disengage the motor from trans. Of course you'll eventually max out the range of adjustment Then, either the cable will snap, or become so hard to push down, you'd want to sell your car, at least, I almost did.
Not saying that to be a dick. Nothing's worse than replacing the same part over and over and thinking something else is going on. So, if it comes to that, you'll be in a better state of mind.
So is the McLeod hydraulic kit the one to use if going that way?I hear you on the $$$ to convert to hydraulic.
Hmmm good to know for sure. lol for sureI have personally never had a problem with a BBK part. I've been using their cables for years. I actually bought a Steeda cable this last time. The fender mount bracket was too long and interfered with my headers. So I actually bent the BBK bracket off of the old cable, and bent it onto the Steeda cable. I just did all my measurements to go hydraulic today, and I am going to need Jesus to save at this point.
Kurt
On everything since the oem ford cables, I've always removed those and done everything I could to decrease the bend in the cable and make it as smooth as possible from the firewall back to the bellhousing.I have personally never had a problem with a BBK part. I've been using their cables for years. I actually bought a Steeda cable this last time. The fender mount bracket was too long and interfered with my headers. So I actually bent the BBK bracket off of the old cable, and bent it onto the Steeda cable. I just did all my measurements to go hydraulic today, and I am going to need Jesus to save at this point.
Kurt
Yeah makes sense.On everything since the oem ford cables, I've always removed those and done everything I could to decrease the bend in the cable and make it as smooth as possible from the firewall back to the bellhousing.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?