Clutch Cable Popping

1995Beast · Nov 19, 2020

So ever since I did the whole adjustable clutch cable, aluminum quadrant, and firewall adjuster install, I've had nothing but issues. The problem I have is a popping noise during takeoffs or whenever the car lurches a little. I never had this issue before switching to this setup. It's almost like the cable is getting bound up and temporarily slips off the clutch fork and then pops once engaged. I cannot tighten the clutch cable any more or I won't be able to engage the clutch and wouldn't make much since in my head to loosen it any more. Also when I push in the clutch all the way to the firewall I can "most of the time" hear a scratching noise as if I'm over compressing the clutch. Any ideas?

-thx
Jared

1995Beast · Nov 21, 2020

No ideas?

General karthief · Nov 21, 2020

Well where you posted may be the issue with lack of responses, you don't give any info on the vehicle or drive line parts other than the cable and stuff.
I will say that the issue of 'scratching noise may be the cable contacting the outer edge of the adjuster, not being centered when peddle is to the floor.
Give more info and I'll try to help.
It is also recommended not to use the adjustable cable with the fire wall adjuster. Stock cable is best or a Maximum Motorsports unit.

kiddiccarus · Nov 21, 2020

Could be the same issue that I had... Wrong cable and quadrant.

HemiRick · Nov 21, 2020

Have you looked at it all again and double checked your work?

1995Beast · Nov 22, 2020

General karthief said:
Well where you posted may be the issue with lack of responses, you don't give any info on the vehicle or drive line parts other than the cable and stuff.
I will say that the issue of 'scratching noise may be the cable contacting the outer edge of the adjuster, not being centered when peddle is to the floor.
Give more info and I'll try to help.
It is also recommended not to use the adjustable cable with the fire wall adjuster. Stock cable is best or a Maximum Motorsports unit.

1995 Mustang GT. I have bbk long tube headers so the rerouting was a little different. I'm almost positive the cable is maximum motorsports. The quadrant and firewall adjuster is either bbk or maybe even SR. I remember I didn't spend that much on the quadrant setup.
The scratching sounds rotational. Like a circular scratching pattern as if it has something to do with the clutch/pressure plate.
So go ahead and remove the firewall adjuster and keep everything else in there? Honestly the adjuster does me no good because it's so darn hard to turn, I'd rather get under the car and just turn the nut a couple turns.

1995Beast · Nov 22, 2020

HemiRick said:
Have you looked at it all again and double checked your work?

Literally 100 times haha I'm not seeing something or something isn't functioning correctly.

1995Beast · Nov 22, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Could be the same issue that I had... Wrong cable and quadrant.

Ordered them from american muscle and mms.

kiddiccarus · Nov 22, 2020

Here is my dilemma. If you would. Browse my Build thread. Now, I will say that AM was 100% beside themselves when I called them and they went above the board in finding me the exact parts and fitment for what I needed. When they called me back, they gave me a direct number to a salesperson who they spoke with at LMR, their competitor, who was waiting on my call. They had the exact part numbers waiting for me so I could get the best turn around time possible. If, after you read my issues that I had and believe that you are in the same situation. CALL LMR, do not use the website and talk to a human explaining it all and I do believe that you will end up with a Steeda kit with a double hook quadrant like I did. I am so much happier for it.

This is where I installed the MMS and shingle claw quad purchased from AM

Progress Thread - 1995 3.8L Vert (2002 3.8L Dual Port Engine)

Mods: (Will Edit List As Things Added/Completed) Last Update 30 January 2020 The old Engine (95 3.8l Single Port) is for sale, it is functional, has manifolds for the 2002 engine p.m. me if you want to talk Engine: Began as Bone Stock 3.8 Single Port @ 145 HP (Book Math For Current State...

stangnet.com

This is where I had to take it out and replace it with parts from LMR

Progress Thread - 1995 3.8L Vert (2002 3.8L Dual Port Engine)

February 15 (11:00 PM EST) Tonight I got off work about 3 pm and grabbed a few Taco Bell Burritos a case of Pepsi and decided to fix some Fuel lines so I can get this girl started. It wasn't the quick fix I wanted it to be. The 95 has the fuel rail delivery and return on the passenger side. The...

stangnet.com

Question: Can You Burn Up a Bran New Clutch in 1 day, like in 2 hours (Answer: Yes)

The question is simple and the symptoms I experienced is below. Did I Burn up a $375 Clutch? Chime in, here is the basic information 1. Installed a Spec Clutch kit and both bearings 2. Installed New Adjustable Cable, Firewall Adjuster, Quadrant (NO I should have not drove the car, so that...

stangnet.com

1995Beast · Nov 22, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Here is my dilemma. If you would. Browse my Build thread. Now, I will say that AM was 100% beside themselves when I called them and they went above the board in finding me the exact parts and fitment for what I needed. When they called me back, they gave me a direct number to a salesperson who they spoke with at LMR, their competitor, who was waiting on my call. They had the exact part numbers waiting for me so I could get the best turn around time possible. If, after you read my issues that I had and believe that you are in the same situation. CALL LMR, do not use the website and talk to a human explaining it all and I do believe that you will end up with a Steeda kit with a double hook quadrant like I did. I am so much happier for it.

This is where I installed the MMS and shingle claw quad purchased from AM

Progress Thread - 1995 3.8L Vert (2002 3.8L Dual Port Engine)

Mods: (Will Edit List As Things Added/Completed) Last Update 30 January 2020 The old Engine (95 3.8l Single Port) is for sale, it is functional, has manifolds for the 2002 engine p.m. me if you want to talk Engine: Began as Bone Stock 3.8 Single Port @ 145 HP (Book Math For Current State...

stangnet.com

This is where I had to take it out and replace it with parts from LMR

Progress Thread - 1995 3.8L Vert (2002 3.8L Dual Port Engine)

February 15 (11:00 PM EST) Tonight I got off work about 3 pm and grabbed a few Taco Bell Burritos a case of Pepsi and decided to fix some Fuel lines so I can get this girl started. It wasn't the quick fix I wanted it to be. The 95 has the fuel rail delivery and return on the passenger side. The...

stangnet.com

Question: Can You Burn Up a Bran New Clutch in 1 day, like in 2 hours (Answer: Yes)

The question is simple and the symptoms I experienced is below. Did I Burn up a $375 Clutch? Chime in, here is the basic information 1. Installed a Spec Clutch kit and both bearings 2. Installed New Adjustable Cable, Firewall Adjuster, Quadrant (NO I should have not drove the car, so that...

stangnet.com

I'm pretty confident my cable isn't the wrong size/length. What exactly are you saying with all this? Not trying to be rude or anything it's just a lot of information you're sending my way. Whatever is "off" with my setup is minute because the car drives just fine. I just keep hearing this damn popping noise at takeoffs and it's driving me nuts. Also don't want to be damaging anything.

kiddiccarus · Nov 22, 2020

Is it safe, Actually asking this, for someone to lay on the ground to better hear where the popping is coming from.
Meaning, can you begin to drive at 5mph and it happen or does it happen at a higher speed? Can you put the rear on jack stands so the tires are off the ground and the sound re-creates? If the sound is from where you have done the work or if it is unrelated and just became noticeable because you are in tuned because you just did work.

If you are pushing in the clutch and the sound is happening when the clutch is released without the car moving forward then it may be the cable. I hope that this is not the case though.

1995Beast · Nov 23, 2020

It only pops when I let out the clutch and it definitely comes from under the vehicle. Could it be rear end? I could try to jack it up and engage it to see if it makes a sound but I believe we tried that some already. Almost like it needs to be under a load. Also not quite sure what the scratching noise is when pushing the clutch in all the way to firewall.

kiddiccarus · Nov 23, 2020

visualizing the clutch releasing in my head. the cable would have slack when depressed and get taught upon release.

Did you do anything to the clutch fork or throw out bearing?

If you did, did you remember to grease the input shaft so that bearing and fork will move freely.
If you did, did you make sure that the bearing is installed correctly on the shaft.

If you did not.... This MAY (not definite) be what is causing the popping noise

I have a T5 that is sitting in my garage and will try to remember to take a picture tonight of how the fork is installed on the bearing.

1995Beast · Nov 23, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
visualizing the clutch releasing in my head. the cable would have slack when depressed and get taught upon release.

Did you do anything to the clutch fork or throw out bearing?

If you did, did you remember to grease the input shaft so that bearing and fork will move freely.
If you did, did you make sure that the bearing is installed correctly on the shaft.

If you did not.... This MAY (not definite) be what is causing the popping noise

I have a T5 that is sitting in my garage and will try to remember to take a picture tonight of how the fork is installed on the bearing.

I have all that replaced correctly. Did everything by the book and very meticulously. New mcleod fork, new pivot stud, new ford racing pilot and throw out, greased all the right spots. This was an issue before I did all these things.

kiddiccarus · Nov 23, 2020

I understand. It is frustrating to know that you followed steps and still the problem persists. I am inclined to believe that the items that you replaced are installed proper and the issue may be outside of what was done.

What else can cause the sound, popping when the clutch is released and scraping when fully depressed. Off hand I cant think of anything

Can you get the car up off the ground so that someone can look inside the bell housing while another is engaging and disengaging the clutch? My thought is to shine a light directly on the clutch fork and see what that cable end is doing. If it is slipping and causing the pop then you have one answer at least. But I am not sure that is the issue now that you said it was there before your current work.

1995Beast · Nov 23, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
I understand. It is frustrating to know that you followed steps and still the problem persists. I am inclined to believe that the items that you replaced are installed proper and the issue may be outside of what was done.

What else can cause the sound, popping when the clutch is released and scraping when fully depressed. Off hand I cant think of anything

Can you get the car up off the ground so that someone can look inside the bell housing while another is engaging and disengaging the clutch? My thought is to shine a light directly on the clutch fork and see what that cable end is doing. If it is slipping and causing the pop then you have one answer at least. But I am not sure that is the issue now that you said it was there before your current work.

As soon as I can get a helper I'll message back. Thanks for the help.

Stangster5.0 · Dec 7, 2020

A popping you can hear , I am going with the cable . If you can feel it when it pops , the throw out bearing . I have the BBK quadrant and have had no issues in over 15 years with it . Doesn't help you , I get that . Just a silly little thing that once you find it will be like DOH .

Clutch Cable Popping

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

The first widely accepted Tranny

I'd be looking at jacking under the house

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The first widely accepted Tranny

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The first widely accepted Tranny

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