Drivetrain Clutch Cable / Quad and FWA combo?

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Hey All,

I know this has been discussed around the net hundreds of times but the more I read the more I'm confused.
All I'm looking to do is replace the Clutch Cable, Quad and add a FWA.
The clutch pedal is feeling somewhat stiff and after driving it for a while, it seems as if the clutch cable stretches and doesn't full disengage. Once cooled down some, its better. I dont know if there is a OEM cable on their or not but I do see a BBK quadrant under the dash so I'm assuming its also a BBK cable. this cable is adjustable.

I'm looking to install a Firewall adjuster (finally) and change the BBK quad, but have no idea what brand to go with.
The cable I'm sure needs to be changed. I read a ton of stuff about stick with OEM cables, but I can't find any online. I know MM has some of the best cables but they have been of stock with no ETA for a very long time. I have no idea what brand or even type (adj or non adj) cable to go with when using a quad and FWA.

After reading all kinds of forum posts, I came up with this but I dont know if its correct.

FRPP Cable - non adjusting
MM - Quadrant
MM - FWA

Would this combo work or would the cable be too short or is there a better brand than FRPP? OEM and MM cables are no where to be found.

Thanks for your help!!
 
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I have run a Steeda quadrant and adjustable cable in my Coupe for over 20 years and have a firewall adjuster as well. I have replaced the cable three times as of this year, just put a new one in. Have not broken one or had one too stretched. The replacement cables have gone in the car when I first put the setup in and then twice when the T5 has been freshened up. I consider it cheap insurance.

Realize that as the clutch wears you need to back the clutch cable tension off due to the clutch fork end moving further back towards the back of the car.

A hard clutch pedal can be a few things like a bad cable, bad clutch, a worn front bearing retainer, etc.
 
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So really any aftermarket cable is ok?

What cable is preferred with when installing an aftermarket quad and FWA?
Adjustable or non.

Another question is I see so many different shaped Quads and with multiple hooks.
Does shape really make a difference? Maximum Motorsports has the oddest shape out of them all.
 
I would not say that any aftermarket cable is okay. I am just saying that I do not have problems with the Steeda units. Started doubting my memory and looked at some pictures and sure enough it's a Steeda. I believe the Steeda cables are made by the same vendor as Ford uses which is no longer domestic.

So what I do is adjust the FWA about halfway out from fully screwed in. I use the adjustable cable to get the clutch initially adjusted and then I do not touch it again. All my future adjustments are done with the FWA.

You can use a nonadjustable cable and just us the FWA so that is up to you. I just like setting the clutch up with the cable as I believe it offers more adjustment later down the road with the FWA.

Quadrant shape is all based on how they engineered the unit based on pedal pressure and length of pull on the cable vs the stroke length on the pedal. Stay with the known vendors like MM, Steeda, Ford Performance, etc. The no name brand crap on eBay and the like is just that, crap.
 
This makes complete sense about using an adj cable (Steeda), adjusting the FWA halfway, adjust the cable under the car to initial setting and then use the FWA to make final adjustments.
I'll definitely stick with MM quad and FWA.

I've read that an adj cable creates more resistance aka more pedal pressure than a non-adj cable, but I don't know how true that is.
I do like how you describe using an adj cable.
 
Most if not all adjustable cables are junk and not built correctly. I have run a Ram Powergrip clutch in the car for the last 10 years and no issues. These clutches have a bit more effort than the stock or King Cobras so if an adjustable cable was going to have an issue it would show up.
 
The MM clutch cables are supposedly made by the original supplier. From what I have read in the past, the FRPP are not. I have the MM setup in my Saleen and am perfectly happy with it. Have not tried the steeda but I trust AeroCoupe’s opinion.

Are the MM cables on back order or something?
 
The MM clutch cables are supposedly made by the original supplier. From what I have read in the past, the FRPP are not. I have the MM setup in my Saleen and am perfectly happy with it. Have not tried the steeda but I trust AeroCoupe’s opinion.

Are the MM cables on back order or something?
Yeah, the MM cables have been on back order with no ETA for a very long time. I've reached out to MM a few times and they have no idea when stock will arrive. :( So I'm looking to still use the MM quad and FWA setup but a good cable alternative. Steeda looks like the way to go as AeroCoupe was stating. I did find however a place that is selling OEM Genuine Ford non-adjust cables for $60.
 
The quadrants can make a difference I’m going to install the Steeda quick release it gives you 20 to 30% more pull...... i’ve seen some good videos on clutch adjustment... if it grinds when you put it in reverse you’re not getting a good release .... your transmission is still engaged .....
 

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The quadrants can make a difference I’m going to install the Steeda quick release it gives you 20 to 30% more pull...... i’ve seen some good videos on clutch adjustment... if it grinds when you put it in reverse you’re not getting a good release .... your transmission is still engaged .....
Hey ebone is that what a quick release is for? To "disengage" the clutch quicker? I always wanted to know what a quick release quadrant was.. hah
When you say 20 to 30% more pull would that be pulling harder on the cable or would that be the same draw or just a quicker pull so to speak?
One more thing. sorry. per the Steeda quick release and MM quad. Would the steeda quick release be a harder clutch pedal than the MM?
 
The quadrants can make a difference I’m going to install the Steeda quick release it gives you 20 to 30% more pull...... i’ve seen some good videos on clutch adjustment... if it grinds when you put it in reverse you’re not getting a good release .... your transmission is still engaged .....
There are no synchos in reverse, it will grind until the transmission stops spinning. Usually it won't mesh when putting in reverse. Put it into 4th with clutch depressed & then into reverse & it will mesh easily.
 
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The reason it’s grinding is because the clutch is still ingauged spinning the transmission...... I’ll try to upload a YouTube video explaining it.... steeda Has a good video on their site about the quick release its slightly harder but it gives you more pull.....
 
Reread what 88Blown GT posted, download the T5 manual, review the manual and then understand that 5th gear is not synchronized.

I go to 5th gear in the T5 in my Coupe as it is synchronized and then it drops into reverse like butter.
 
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Reread what 88Blown GT posted, download the T5 manual, review the manual and then understand that 5th gear is not synchronized.

I bump the T5 in my Coupe as it is synchronized and then it drops into reverse like butter
wow I had no idea 5th gear wasn’t synchronized. I would alway bump 5th before going into reverse to help it engage reverse better and there was still a little grinding or resistance. I’ll start bumping 1-4 to sync before reverse.
 
There are no synchos in reverse, it will grind until the transmission stops spinning. Usually it won't mesh when putting in reverse. Put it into 4th with clutch depressed & then into reverse & it will mesh easily.
I’ll definitely start bumping 4th before reverse. I would always either use 5th or just tap reverse and slowly / gently engage the gear