I can just imagine the heat-checks on the flywheel and pressure plate and the glaze on the clutch disc now. Think about that hardware glowing red from the heat...
This "solution" gets afrom me.
He might have purchased too harsh of a clutch disk, I read too rough of a clutch disk can and will ruined a drive-train among other components. From his upgrades and situation I think his clutch disk is working too well.
I can just imagine the heat-checks on the flywheel and pressure plate and the glaze on the clutch disc now. Think about that hardware glowing red from the heat...
This "solution" gets afrom me.
I typically got a little burning clutch smell, but pretty minimal. I wouldn't change the clutch out yet, especially given that when you adjusted your cable things were a little better. My clutch took up to 3k miles before it behaved more like the stock clutch (less noise, better driving dynamics). That being said, it still does make more noise than the stock. The break-in period is critical for the clutch. The exact number of miles you need for break-in varies, from experience, my number was 3k. Don't drive too hard on it- it will grip just fine but it will be better in the long run if you don't drive hard. It may temporarily solve the problem but you need more miles on it.
I agree with trinity_gt that the problems in reverse are weird and may represent mounts or some other issue.
I have one question though, how do you know if you have glazed it over ? I know this may seem odd but could I have been driving the clutch too easy per its design causing it too not build up enough material on the flywheel which is why it is chattering so much ? I was a little harsh on it last night but I in reality I drove it similar to my stock clutch. Where before last night, I drove the car with a very cautious left foot and basically did not slip the clutch at all, just let it out and treated it like a on off clutch.
Oh and I figured out why reverse was shaking the car so badly. I had my rear brakes done yesterday and the right rear was metal on metal and was not releasing causing it to drag. The left rear was similar. So both were greased and now reverse is fine, even before I beat on the clutch a little. Could that have been the burnt smell I always smelled ?
It could be the springs in the disc hub that are bad. Or it could possibly have something to do with the rivets in the friction material.
I bought a 2.1 Fidanza clutch and intalled it along with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel I had. Mine chattered a little, but nothing major. After being in the car about 6 months.........
The results are in the attached pics.
I was at the track, made a run, then came back into the pits and parked. Everything was fine. Decided to move the car over by a buddy's. Goosed it a little in 1st gear and BOOM..... all hell broke loose. Looed like the rivets for the friction material decided to stop doing their job.
Thats crazy, I am having it taken out of the car tomorrow and will take pictures and post them up of the damage. But that is unbelievable, hope it didn't damage your car at all.
Update
So the pressure plate was only working on one half meaning the clutch was only getting pressed into the flywheel on half of the clutch face. It torched the flywheel and the shop did not recommended me reusing the flywheel.
So..
I am getting a stock replacement 03/04 cobra clutch kit from ford. Which includes a new flywheel for the 11" clutch along with a new clutch, pressure plate, ford racing pilot bearing and throwout bearing, which is going to cost me 525 for all the parts, including flywheel. Not too bad and at least i will have a good clutch in the car that I know is DD capable and also hold lots of power when I go FI later.
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