Sorry to hear that man. I have the FRPP cable and BKK quadrant and adjuster. Definitely go with the Steeda or MM one. I hate the BBK unit
Clutch selection
- Thread starter deathb4dismount
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Sorry to hear that man. I have the FRPP cable and BKK quadrant and adjuster. Definitely go with the Steeda or MM one. I hate the BBK unit
Another vote for the King Cobra at those power levels. The only other clutch I would recommend looking at is the Dual Friction Center Force, particularly if you've got gears installed. Light pedal and clamps down hard when spinning up.
As for flywheels, I run a billet steel flywheel. It's heavier (more mass), can handle any amount of heat regardless of traffic/racing/clutch riding/whatever. You can have them turned as many times as you like (they hardly wear and are really hard to burnish) and un-like Fastdriver, I do notice a difference during gear shifts (probably because I rarely ever fast-shift in traffic or on the street; It's usually, "brrrrrr-uuuuu-UUUUUUUUM Bbbvvvvv brrUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHH!" and the extra mass carries RPM through my lazy shift.
As for flywheels, I run a billet steel flywheel. It's heavier (more mass), can handle any amount of heat regardless of traffic/racing/clutch riding/whatever. You can have them turned as many times as you like (they hardly wear and are really hard to burnish) and un-like Fastdriver, I do notice a difference during gear shifts (probably because I rarely ever fast-shift in traffic or on the street; It's usually, "brrrrrr-uuuuu-UUUUUUUUM Bbbvvvvv brrUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUHHH!" and the extra mass carries RPM through my lazy shift.
My stock clutch/flywheel had well over 300 runs on it, and over 35k street miles... at the time the car made 292tq at the wheels... probably at or over 300 at the track (ice, short-belt) on dot's launching at 5000+rpm and scratching the dot's on every shift. (dot, as in, a slick with a few groves)
It was still going strong when i pulled it in hopes of a little more ET.
Having said that there were signs of slipping, which was likely in the first 20' feet of the track and on each up-shift.
Never noticed any slip playing around on street radials. It would roast the tires from a roll in 2nd, roll them over good going into 3rd and chip them going into 4th.
- that was back when i was younger, more fit, and could drive - .
Car went low 13.tens (as in 13.10x-13.11x) like a broken record with that clutch making a mere 232hp, but the aforementioned 292tq (dyno, more at the track)
I put a stronger clutch in it (over kill, a puck style with ceramic/organic) and the car became harder to launch.
This is also when my wife stopped driving the car... a little heavier pedal, a little chatter if not released perfectly... aka modulation was no longer foolproof (not that my wife is a fool by any means -engineer at mayo, the Hospital folks-, but she is also not a gear head)...she hated it.
Ended up launching at 6000rpm to get the tires to spin a bit to make up for the lost clutch slip.
Car went low 13.ohhs (as in 13.004-13.008) like clockwork until I finally cracked off a 12.9 in good (for Phoenix) air... 2600'.
If I had a Fox with 300/300 that was going to live on the street with street radials, I'd have a real hard time convincing myself to throw anything in it other than an organic replacement clutch from a reputable manufacturer... with a good quadrant/adjuster and firewall reinforcement.
It was still going strong when i pulled it in hopes of a little more ET.
Having said that there were signs of slipping, which was likely in the first 20' feet of the track and on each up-shift.
Never noticed any slip playing around on street radials. It would roast the tires from a roll in 2nd, roll them over good going into 3rd and chip them going into 4th.
- that was back when i was younger, more fit, and could drive - .
Car went low 13.tens (as in 13.10x-13.11x) like a broken record with that clutch making a mere 232hp, but the aforementioned 292tq (dyno, more at the track)
I put a stronger clutch in it (over kill, a puck style with ceramic/organic) and the car became harder to launch.
This is also when my wife stopped driving the car... a little heavier pedal, a little chatter if not released perfectly... aka modulation was no longer foolproof (not that my wife is a fool by any means -engineer at mayo, the Hospital folks-, but she is also not a gear head)...she hated it.
Ended up launching at 6000rpm to get the tires to spin a bit to make up for the lost clutch slip.
Car went low 13.ohhs (as in 13.004-13.008) like clockwork until I finally cracked off a 12.9 in good (for Phoenix) air... 2600'.
If I had a Fox with 300/300 that was going to live on the street with street radials, I'd have a real hard time convincing myself to throw anything in it other than an organic replacement clutch from a reputable manufacturer... with a good quadrant/adjuster and firewall reinforcement.
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I was having my rear main seal done recently and the clutch in the car was a King Cobra I put in back in the 90’s. Since the motor and trans were gonna be separated, I figured it would be a good time to do the clutch/flywheel as they were 20+ years old. Went to a very reputable mustang shop here on Long Island. They recommended a spec stage 2 clutch and billet steel flywheel. Broke the clutch in for about the first 500 miles by being easy on it. No issues. Car feels great. Dropped the clutch off a red light early last Saturday morning. Rubber all the way through first, nice second gear chirp. Didn’t even push it too hard. Car makes a little over 300hp at the wheels. No complaints.
I don’t think spec are bad clutches by any means but they hold a lot of power and can be pretty harsh on the trans Heck I think the stage 1 even holds like 450 tq. What trans are you running?
Stock T5. But I don’t drive it anything like I did 20 years ago. Then again, 20 years ago I didn’t have a wife and a daughter, so I really can’t afford to break anything. Lol
