Drivetrain Clutch stopped working and went soft

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
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My friend had a 1987 GT he bought new. When we replaced the clutch, we did TOB, flywheel, disc, pivot stud, pivot arm, clutch cable and quadrant. All Ford Motorsport items. T5-Z also installed. The clutch was a stiffer unit, and after a few weeks the clutch acted like your clutch does. The clutch pedal lever under the dash broke where it was welded around the round bar. When it was replaced, the new Ford part was an updated piece with more metal around the clutch pedal assy. We never thought about that item coming apart, but the heavier pedal and high mileage (188,000 miles, highway car) the factory item failed. After replacement everything worked as normal. The factory update was made around 1989/1990. It may not be your problem but keep this in mind when putting a HD clutch in a FOX body.
I had a Diesel VW pickup once upon a time... These were famous for the same thing... The pedal assembly needed to be removed and have some additional welding done on them...... I assume rabbits and Jettas the same thing....
Wish I still had that little truck...... 45+ MPG.......
 
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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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You should wrap the new cable with heat wrap. Longtube headers don't play nice with clutch cables. The heat will deteriorate the cable housing.
 
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AnthonyA1234

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Aug 17, 2020
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Hey guys the new clutch cable fixed it thanks for all the help everyone. This was how I routed the new cable I had to bend the bracket away from the headers and then I routed the cable between the motor mounts and the oil pan. Does this look good?
 

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AnthonyA1234

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Aug 17, 2020
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One other thing, you guys think it’s a good idea to put some loc tite on the jam nut on the cable. That thing makes me nervous.