Code 113 And 157 Today??

[from6to8]

All I did was set my idle via the Professional products instructions. I had to loosen up the CAI tube, each clamp to twist each section some so I could see in the tb to make sure the butterfly was closed. I put everything back together and set the idle per their instructions. After setting the idle and taking for a drive the car drove a little different, different as in not that responsive on lower end or up over 3500. I mean over 3500 yes power comes on better but it still didnt feel like my car does when it has driven its best. I mean after all I have done lately it shouldn't have gotten worse.

It even popped a few times, different times while messing with it over about a 2 hr period. Almost like a pop/backfire. Twice it stalled when slowing down and threw it in neutral to come to a stop. Got it home and checked codes and with KOEO test I got a 113- IAT sensor circuit open or reads -40. Also got a 157 MAF sensor circuit below minimum voltage. I put in another IAT sensor and adjusted the maf though it was already straight up. Checked all the clamps and made sure everything was good and tight, cleared codes took for a drive and same thing. I played with the idle some more over the course of the 2 hrs and set tps each time. When I first messed with the idle today it seemed as if the throtte response was much more responsive with car idled at about 11-1200 so that was the last thing I did tonite was put it back there , reset tps and took for a drive. It felt a little better but when I got back home and checked codes I still got the 113 and 157 with koeo test.

Thoughts

 

[toyman]

Perhaps a broken wire on the IAT sensor. What was the TPS voltage KOEO? I assume you have a aftermarket TB as there is no adjustment on the stock piece. The ECU will learn and recognize the idle position from about .65v - 1.25v so adjusting it isn't that critical within the range but about 1v is the norm. Do you have a .010 gap between the throttle set screw and the butterfly lever? That's about where it should be after the reset procedure. I would use the SBF reset procedure. Don't skip any steps.

 

[from6to8]

Perhaps a broken wire on the IAT sensor. What was the TPS voltage KOEO? I assume you have a aftermarket TB as there is no adjustment on the stock piece. The ECU will learn and recognize the idle position from about .65v - 1.25v so adjusting it isn't that critical within the range but about 1v is the norm. Do you have a .010 gap between the throttle set screw and the butterfly lever? That's about where it should be after the reset procedure. I would use the SBF reset procedure. Don't skip any steps.

the tps volts was at .97
would testing the IAT sensor's wire with key on tell me anything since it's saying a circuit open or reads -40? Have to check tommorow and see bout the gap. Does that really matter though as long as the car idles where u want it at and the tps is within range? When setting the tps it's ok to have the neg wire of meter on the neg batt post am I correct?

no thoughts on the maf code 157?

 

[toyman]

You should be using the sensor ground when doing the test. Which reminds me you should ensure the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds are solid. Solid grounds are essential for the engine sensors to function properly. Check the cable under the sheathing as well as the terminals for corrosion. With respect to the 157 code check the MAF volts at idle. With the MAF connected back probe the signal and ground wires. It should read between .2v-1.5v. With the MAF disconnected test the B+ (battery voltage) terminal and ground. Should be 12+ volts.

 

[from6to8]

You should be using the sensor ground when doing the test. Which reminds me you should ensure the battery to engine and engine to chassis grounds are solid. Solid grounds are essential for the engine sensors to function properly. Check the cable under the sheathing as well as the terminals for corrosion. With respect to the 157 code check the MAF volts at idle. With the MAF connected back probe the signal and ground wires. It should read between .2v-1.5v. With the MAF disconnected test the B+ (battery voltage) terminal and ground. Should be 12+ volts.

I use a safety pin to probe the wire of the tps and have to secure the tip of meter in the hole of the pin with my other hand as I move the tps up and down some so might be difficult to try and use 2 safety pins, one for the middle wire which I always probe and the other for the ground. Are you certain the tps can't be set using the meter's lead to the neg battery cable? Shouldnt it be the same results?

I guess if I just loosen up on bolts just a tad enuff for the sensor to move some without keep moving I should be able to probe using 2 pins as I won't have to use my left hand to hold the sensor still

 

[toyman]

Are you certain the tps can't be set using the meter's lead to the neg battery cable? Shouldnt it be the same results?

Only if the grounds are good and quite often they're not.

 

[from6to8]

Only if the grounds are good and quite often they're not.

as far as I know and checked the grounds appear fine. I will further check everything under the car when I get it up in the air. Furthermore I will check the tps tommorow using the tps ground but today I set it using the neg battery post. My car is idling fine and running ok but I still think something isn't right with it. I am not getting the 113 and 157 codes any longer though after setting my idle using the unplugging the IAC method. I think that there is an issue and I want to check for a possible leaky injector. It's taking the fp about 40-45 minutes to bleed down to 0. Are there any ways to check for a leaky injector without taking the fuel rail off? I read something yesterday which said to let car sit overnight then take out the plugs. Disconnect the module and switch the car on but do not crank and if there is fuel coming out any of the cylinders that injector is leaking.

I tried the stock fp regulator on weeks ago and it didn't seem to have any affect on how the car drove. With car running, I took line off regulator and other end where it connects and didnt smell any fuel in the line. So now I want to check and make sure my injectors are fine.

 

[from6to8]

Today first thing I did was check the injectors for leaking. Car sat overnight so today I switched on 4 times without cranking and checked plugs 1-4 then switched on 4 more times and checked 5-8. All looked good, no wetness at all.

I found a procedure today after looking on the net for 94-95 idle set procedures since it appears there are some that have different ways of doing it depending on the tb you have. Now what I learned was that yes the tps just has to be within that range limit of the tolerance.

Basically what the instructions told me to do was set the stop screw to where it first gets a gap between it and the bottom of plate where it hits (by turning counterclockwise). Then it says to turn it in about a turn and a half clockwise. The screw should slightly be touching the bottom of plate. I'm saying plate because of not sure what that piece is called but it's the throttle plate you can manually rev the engine with.

It next says to unplug the IAC and start the car. If it doesn't want to stay cranked have someone rev it until you get out and in front of car. The idle bypass screw should be turned all the way clockwise to begin and if the car wants to cut off , turn the idle bypass screw in small increments to keep car running. YOu want to not go pass 2 full turns on the idle bypass screw. My car didnt want to stay running at this point so basically what I did was adjust the STOP SCREW clockwise some more in small increments until the car stayed running. I hand tightened the nut after each increment to keep the stop screw from moving on it's on. Gotta play with the throttle while doing this to keep it from dying. Once I got it idled at about 900-1000, I turned the stop screw counterclockwise a hair at a time as well as the idle bypass screw. I wanted to get it to idle as low as possible with the IAC unplugged.

The best I could get it to idle given my combination was about 800. I cut the car off and went ahead and check the tps with car switched on . I did notice that using the negative battery post to put negative lead of meter on, the difference was about .04. It read .90 on the tps ground while reading .94 using neg battery post. I set to .97 using tps ground, then took neg battery cable off for bout 15 minutes. I then reconnected IAC, put battery post back on and started her up. Car idled about 900-950, nice and smooth out of the yard, no bucking and I pretty much cruised for the first 10 minutes of driving. On way back home I drove her pretty hard and I noticed the damn car pulled hard, hard, strong, no hesitation whatsoever. Now I will see if she consistently drives like that. I really believe that since I have had that combo and that tb, never having set the idle using the IDLE BYPASS SCREW having the professional products tb was causing my issues. I will find out soon as I drive her on weekends and see if she conistently performs the same. Everything else if up to date maintenance wise