Contemplating ditching the PS and AC

I am comfortable with the Aviation or Offset tin snips. The traditional big handle with little beak or HD scissor type are clumsy. I’d drill a pilot hole inside the carefully marked desired final hole and work my way out with right or left cut snips.
I wonder if those show panels are a really good water trap and will help rust out the inner fender panel and rail. If you never see a puddle and rarely get the car wet, I am probably paranoid. For a driver, drain holes underneath seem like a requirement.
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Yeah I’ve seen ppl talk about that issue when putting these panels in, but not sure what the fix is. I think for the time being I’d like to rivet them in like this bc I feel that’s something I can do and have a rivet gun, but once I actually do a motor swap, I’d want to shoot the engine bay and have these welded in.
 
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Oh man I’m contemplating throwing these Scott rod panels in while I have everything cleared since I’m in the process of the wire tuck. Did you have to drill then pop all the rivets in? Also what did you use to cut the hole for the passenger side?
Just a big hole saw and trimmed with a air saw after. Yes I drilled then riveted. No issues. This is temporary until I have the time and money to do a the weld in panels and shoot the bay again
 
Just a big hole saw and trimmed with a air saw after. Yes I drilled then riveted. No issues. This is temporary until I have the time and money to do a the weld in panels and shoot the bay again
So these are just the aluminum ones then? If you wanted to weld them in later you would need to buy the steel ones?
 
You could cut some revit heads off and glue them to the panel. Then glue the panel in the car. You could seal the perimeter and it would be removable without damage to the car.
 
Each idea you are proposing here seems to be form over function.
Which is fine in a race car, in anything else they just seem senseless.

I personally think missing AC looks worse. The visual balance of the engine bay is gone and even if you don't see it that way, still looks like something is missing.

You have a nice car.
I'd do none of these ideas.
 
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Imo you should do it, keep all parts you remove just in case. Before my lx I daily drove a 72 Monte Carlo , no ac. I moved from n.y.c. To henderson,Nevada
( surface of the sun) . Five summers here and finally had a change of heat. Change of heart and since then a.c. And ps are my won't do withouts.
 
With the AC out it’s such a cleaner look. I was like you and contemplated for awhile before I just finally said screw it, and removed it. Don’t drive it daily whatsoever, I’m more of a car show, weekend cruiser etc so I’d rather have it look clean and open. It made a huge difference I think. Also did you cut that hole for the wires to run through and up to the solenoid? I keep debating on moving my msd box from the passenger side to inside the fender some where since I’m in the process of the wire tuck, but idk if thats a good idea.
Yes, the car is a weekend toy/show car. I drilled a hole behind the driver shock tower to run most of the wiring through. I did drill a small hole in the driver side inner fender to run the cables for the starter solenoid. I made home made panels to fit over the stock inner fender panels out of 18 gauge sheetmetal that i formed, cut, primed and painted. I then used panel bond to secure them. I am far from being a body guy, but think they came out nice. I decided to keep the MSD box in the engine bay because I kind of like it there. Many people make a bracket and relocate it inside the fender.

I havent decided what I will do with the A/C and PS yet. This car is a weekend toy driven to shows and on sunny days. It will never be sold or daily driven. What is holding me back is the cost- can't see driving 17 x 9 245/45/17's with a manual rack

New front skinnies- no one makes 17 x 4 Cobra R 4 lugs so I would have to get a set narrowed $150 a wheel
New front tires- $300
Manual rack- $200-400 depending if I get stock , flaming river,
Manual steering shaft $125
Brackets. new belt, etc $100

so about $1000 to do it . think I can find a better use for that money/ I could just ditch the AC which would be maybe $100 for the belt and PS relocaiton.. Looked at the Volvo electric PS but that runs about $500-$600 to do it from what I see.
 
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I run those same wheel and tire sizes. I know it’s subject to personal opinion, but it’s not really that bad at all. I bought a used power rack before I drove the car then ended up selling it because I didn’t mind the lack of power steering. Maybe you could bypass your power steering temporarily to try it out?
 
To each their own, however, by this standard the Forced Induction guys should take off their superchargers and turbos for a cleaner look. Who needs all that horsepower when you can have an empty engine bay that no one really sees anyway? :O_o: I don't get it....but oh well. Here is one of my engine bays. I will take this cluttered look any day and enjoy blasting my AC cold enough to chill a Coors light at the vent, and one fingered turning through the mall parking lot.

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@mikestang63

Skinnies up from on a street driven car is just asking for a collision. Over 75% of the braking power is done by the front wheels. A panic stop for a car that runs a stoplight or a child that runs out into the street in front of you will leave emotional scars that may never heal.

Skinnies are OK on a track only car that gets trailered to and from the racetrack. That accident that could have been avoided if you had only decided to trailer the car to the racetrack will stick in your wallet, your mind and maybe in the broken and injured parts of your body.
 
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