Yeah I’ve seen ppl talk about that issue when putting these panels in, but not sure what the fix is. I think for the time being I’d like to rivet them in like this bc I feel that’s something I can do and have a rivet gun, but once I actually do a motor swap, I’d want to shoot the engine bay and have these welded in.I am comfortable with the Aviation or Offset tin snips. The traditional big handle with little beak or HD scissor type are clumsy. I’d drill a pilot hole inside the carefully marked desired final hole and work my way out with right or left cut snips.
I wonder if those show panels are a really good water trap and will help rust out the inner fender panel and rail. If you never see a puddle and rarely get the car wet, I am probably paranoid. For a driver, drain holes underneath seem like a requirement.
I've never heard of that. InterestingOr you can do the flip mod to the factory tensioner
It's an old school mod.. I did it to two of my cars back in the day.I've never heard of that. Interesting
Just a big hole saw and trimmed with a air saw after. Yes I drilled then riveted. No issues. This is temporary until I have the time and money to do a the weld in panels and shoot the bay againOh man I’m contemplating throwing these Scott rod panels in while I have everything cleared since I’m in the process of the wire tuck. Did you have to drill then pop all the rivets in? Also what did you use to cut the hole for the passenger side?
So these are just the aluminum ones then? If you wanted to weld them in later you would need to buy the steel ones?Just a big hole saw and trimmed with a air saw after. Yes I drilled then riveted. No issues. This is temporary until I have the time and money to do a the weld in panels and shoot the bay again
To my knowledge yesSo these are just the aluminum ones then? If you wanted to weld them in later you would need to buy the steel ones?
Yes, the car is a weekend toy/show car. I drilled a hole behind the driver shock tower to run most of the wiring through. I did drill a small hole in the driver side inner fender to run the cables for the starter solenoid. I made home made panels to fit over the stock inner fender panels out of 18 gauge sheetmetal that i formed, cut, primed and painted. I then used panel bond to secure them. I am far from being a body guy, but think they came out nice. I decided to keep the MSD box in the engine bay because I kind of like it there. Many people make a bracket and relocate it inside the fender.With the AC out it’s such a cleaner look. I was like you and contemplated for awhile before I just finally said screw it, and removed it. Don’t drive it daily whatsoever, I’m more of a car show, weekend cruiser etc so I’d rather have it look clean and open. It made a huge difference I think. Also did you cut that hole for the wires to run through and up to the solenoid? I keep debating on moving my msd box from the passenger side to inside the fender some where since I’m in the process of the wire tuck, but idk if thats a good idea.
not on my setupYes lopsided, but you can move the alt. Lower down and then it will be even Steven.
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