Convertible Won't Open - Any suggestions???

94texastang

New Member
Apr 1, 2004
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Texas
I have a '94 5.0 and recently started having problems with my top opening. When I attempt to open the top, I hear a noise as if the top wants to open but nothing happens. Actually, if I hold the button down long enough, eventually the top will move a little but it then stops.

I should probably say that this all happened one day after I washed the car. The next time I tried to open the top I could hear what sounded like water shooting out of somewhere when i attempted to open the top. After a couple of weeks, the water seemed to all come out as now it's just air that i hear and no more water.

Can y'all give me some suggestions on what could possibly be wrong.


http://www.cardomain.com/id/txstang
 
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so are you suggesting a possible hole or fray in one of the lines. that would probably explain the gurgling type sound that i was hearing. the next question would be where do the lines run. the gurgling i was hearing was coming from the rear driver side of the convertible top.
 
To get to the hydraulic lines do the following.

1. remove the back seat. both the bottom and back.
2. There bolted to the floor is the hydraulic pump with the line running out of it to the hydraulic cylinder(s ?), just follow them. If it is one of the lines then you should notice a stream of fluid when raising or lowering the top. You can probably get steel braided lines to replace the rubber ones.

Jim
 
great information jim....thanks a bunch.

it seems to me that all the attempts i have made to open the top would mean that i have lost quite a bit of fluid - if so, where is it that i would replenish the fluid?
 
This is from the FORD TSP CD for checking and servicing the hydraulic system for your convertible top



D1 CHECK RESERVOIR FLUID LEVEL


Gain access to folding top hydraulic lift motor and plate kit as outlined.

Place absorbent cloth below the reservoir filler plug.

Remove the filler plug and check fluid level.

NOTE:
Fluid should be level with the bottom of the filler plug hole.



D2 CHECK SYSTEM FOR LEAKS


Visually inspect all folding top motor upper and lower hose (53390) for damage.

Check all fittings at folding top hydraulic lift motor and plate kit and folding top hydraulic cylinders (50600).


D3 BLEED HYDRAULIC SYSTEM


Fill reservoir with Synthetic Mercon® Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission fluid E6AZ-19582-B (ESR-M2C163-AZ) or equivalent. Fill reservoir to bottom of filler plug hole. Install filler plug.

Start engine.

Cycle the folding top several times to purge air out of the system.

NOTE:
Refill reservoir as necessary during the bleeding operation.
 
One question. Does that Ford CD say what position the top should be in to check? Just curious. I just replaced my motor about a month ago, and it seemed if you filled the resevoir while the actuators are extended, it would be overfilled when retracted.
 
i finally got around to this project. the car is out in the drive and i have the rear seats removed and can see the main hydraulic system that opens and closes the convertible top. it's a cylinder looking thingy and makes gear noises when i attempt to open and shut the top.

anyhow, i found no leaks anywhere, however i'm wondering if there just isn't any fluid to confirm. the instructions above say to check the hydraulic reservoir. is this supposed to be in the same location i'm looking or is it elsewhere??? i'm going to go back out and look again but i'm not seeing anywhere to fill fluid or even a filler plug.

advise please. :)
 
I had a similar problem with my 94. But I heard clicking sounds when I pushed the button. I got back there and figured everything out. There are 2 little black boxes on the driver side of the motor (cylinder thing). These are little switches that control the motor. One switches on for open and one for closing the top. I played around with the wires coming out of the motor and it would work for a couple of times, and then stop again. I took the end off of the motor on the passenger side and took all of the "guts" of the electric motor out. I cleaned them all out and put it all back together and it has worked fine since. I don't know if this will help you or not, but here is soming else you can check.
 
If you aren't leaking any fluid, then your problem is electrical. Look to the two black boxes outlined earlier. They are the motor relays, and if they don't work, then the top won't do anything at all. When I press the button, I hear a high pitched squealing noise from the pump.

Leaks - If you look at each cylinder, you should see the plastic lines. Examine these carefully. The leak can be anywhere. Likely, there is some dirt buildup because ATF is sticky. If one of the cylinders or lines is leaking, replace/fix the leak. Then proceed with the below description of filling the pump.

The main pump is mounted right behind the back seats. The lines from the two cylinders both go screw into the front and back of the pump.

First remove the pump from the mounting bracket. It has 4 rubber connectors at each corner. Simply pry each corner and the pump will come out. It may be tough to remove. Once you get the pump loose, look at one of the end caps of the pump(driver's side I think), there is a rubber plug. It's a PITA to remove. Get some vise grips, squeeze down on the rubber plug, and turn it left to right as you pull it out. It's about 1 1/2" long. You might need something to pry it out first, like a screwdriver. Just be careful, the rubber is hard, but not unbrakeable.

Once you get the plug out, see where the fluid level is. It's ATF by the way, which is nasty. Don't forget tons of paper towels. If the fluid level is at the bottom of the fill plug, then it is fine. If it's low, then fill the pump to the bottom of the filler plug, install the rubber plug, then cycle the top 3-5 times. Then remove the plug and check the level, adding ATF when necessary. Repeat until the fluid remains at the right level.

Remember, if the fluid level is low, you have a leak. Look for the leak first. You can refill the system all you want, but if you don't fix the leak, the problem will keep coming back!
Scott
 
I finally found the problem. The driver side cylinder has a leak. I had to remove the rear side plastics to see it. It's hard to tell if I need to replace the whole cylinder or not. It doesn't seem to be leaking where the line connects to the cylinder but rather from the top of the cylinder itself ... if this makes sense. it's where the hydraulic arm goes into the cylinder. If i'm leaking from this spot, will I have to replace the entire cylinder??
 
Tex,

If it is leaking from the top of the hydraulic cylinder, then the seal(s) are shot, and you will have to replace that cylinder. You have two choices at this point, start calling junkyards or pay Ford their blood money, and get a new cylinder. If I remember correctly, the hydraulic cylinder from a 94, 95, 96 or 97 should work, but take the bad one with you to compare with the replacement one, if you go the junkyard route.


Jim