COOLING MY BLOWER- RUNNING 220 HOT, WHY?

[Killer50stang]

I am currently running a holley 174 blower, edlebrock heads. I have the stock water pump still on, but I have a 3 core radiator with 18" electric fan. My car seems to run fine for a while but even on the freeway goes up past 210-215 degrees. When I stop at a light, I nearly overheat before I have to shut off the motor. The only possible thing I can think of is this. My battery isn't staying charged due to some alternator flaw I'm guessing. This causes my fan to blow about as good as me blowing on it with my mouth. Would this cause a over heat? I have been told the stock water pump will be fine. Right now I'm not happy. The thermostat is brand new 180, waterpump is new but stock, 3 core new. All parts are basically brand new. What is my choices?

 

[SloFoSho]

flush the radiator and dump some redline water wetter usualy drops temps about 10-15 degrees. maybe a new thermostat. dont know **** about stangs just getting into them but id start with that

 

[proxses]

With a blower like that you will need way more fuel than normal. Alot of it will condense on the blower rotors. What is your A/F ratio?
Also, what material is the radiator?
You may want to try a Cobra waterpump pulley.
And what is wrong with your alternator?
Oh, and I agree with SloFoSho about the water wetter.

 

[Stang8URMPRT]

Usually if your alt fails, your car will jsut shut off. Sure the fan could be turning too slow because of low volts, but at that point, your cars electrical system should shut off and your car would die. You might want to try a high flow water pump with an aluminium radiator. How much HP are you running? A 3 core brass barely cools my car. Also, what cfm is your fan pulling? If your car is a street driven car then you should be running atleast 3200-3500 cfm, usually accomplished by a dual fan set up. Also, make sure you are running a puller fan not a pusher as a push is much less efficent. If the parts are new, a flush isn't in order, and I would try to run a 160 thermo. I know your car is carbed, so it doesn't effect all the gay sensors that need to read a certain temp. I know they're expensive, but I'd get a high flow pump, aluminium rad, and fans that flow atleast 3200 cfm combined.

Also, I am very interested in the 174. I've never talked to anyone with one. How does that thing work for ya? Ya like? Hood clearance problems? Lots of fab for throttle brackets? Tuning issues with the carb? Sorry, off topic... But I'm very interested. Any pics???

Nick

 

[shttygtstang]

hey check you hose see if there all gummy and collapsed its the summer till u find the prob pull the stat right out like stang 8 said flush it make shure your fan pulling enough air to you rad right now a volt meter is your best freind get one if you got use it couldnt hurt to put a hd water pump on theres not much to a cooling system on your car...if your driving and it over heats turn your heat on high that should help some so u dont mess n e thing up

 

[Killer50stang]

The 171 is amazing! As for hood clearance I had to make a small cut, but you either have to run a Cowl 2 1/2" or a cobra R hood which is what I have. I am running a brass 3 core, how can the brass not cool as well as a aluminum? Is that true? What water pump should I go with? Thanks.

 

[riz91302]

yeah lets see some pics of that 174 on your car, i am very interested in that too, just completed an efi to carb conversion yesterday and want to put the 174 on
post the pics

 

[riz91302]

also where did you get the 174 and how much did you pay for it?
i emailed holley but they never emailed me back with the info
thanks

 

[riz91302]

even though i know i need to get a set of heads with all the other mods i have , but i still want to know how much i need to save

 

[TheUser]

The 171 is amazing! As for hood clearance I had to make a small cut, but you either have to run a Cowl 2 1/2" or a cobra R hood which is what I have. I am running a brass 3 core, how can the brass not cool as well as a aluminum? Is that true? What water pump should I go with? Thanks.

Brass cools better than aluminum I guess some people think just because aluminum costs more, it's better Aluminum is for weight savings, not necessarily better cooling, I believe. If your stuff is new, then you recently installed it. Take it for a run and come home, let it cool down and pop the rad. cap...see if the rad is full. That's the problem I was having, it would keep sucking/getting rid of somehow my coolant. I just had to keep dumping more in and let the thermo open, add more, etc. I think I *MIGHT* finally have that problem fixed.

About your battery problems...I know it's routine stuff, but make sure your terminals are cleaned and tight. Are your battery cables old? How many volts does your battery have idling? What kind of alternator do you have?

 

[GAU89LXStang]

Did you burp your Radiator. You said all your stuff was new so maybe you have an air bubble/pocket. The alternator may be your problem and since you need to replace it anyways try that too. Also if your fan is the Black Magic 18 inch fan (Flex-A-Lite part no FLX-175) then it flows 2800cfm which is good for up to 500 hp.

Gary

 

[Stang8URMPRT]

Aluminium cools much better then brass. Take something brass and stick a lighter up to it, and your finger a couple inches away. The heat will get to your finger in a matter of seconds. Now take something aluminium, like a soda can, and do the same thing. It will take many minutes, if not ever, to get hot a couple inches away from it. This is because Aluminium has a much better heat dissipation rate then brass, thus aluminium radiator.

Nick