cooling question

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MattTheBat83

New Member

Mar 31, 2006

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Jul 4, 2007

#1

• Jul 4, 2007

• #1

last night i was in a drive thru line for a long time, like 20 mins, and the temp gauge went to about 250-260. i have a stock water pump, stock fan, and stock radiator. do i need to upgrade or is there something else?

 

cenok is family

15 Year Member

Jun 25, 2003

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79

Norman, Ok

Jul 4, 2007

#2

• Jul 4, 2007

• #2

what thermostat you using? sitting for 20 mins is a pretty good amount of time just sitting. you might want to invest in a bigger radiator. how old's your waterpump? all my stock stuff has been fine for me so far, but i'd like to get an aluminum radiator eventually.

 

M

MattTheBat83

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Mar 31, 2006

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Jul 4, 2007

#3

• Jul 4, 2007

• #3

the water pump has like 7000 miles on it the radiator is like 3 years old

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

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Jul 4, 2007

#4

• Jul 4, 2007

• #4

Did it cool down once you start moving?

Still running stock fan setup? Hows the clutch? If you spin it by hand, does it spin very easily? If so, replace the clutch.

 

RYC CUKR

Founding Member

May 19, 2002

1,437

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Orlando

Jul 4, 2007

#5

• Jul 4, 2007

• #5

It sounds like a fan clutch issue. In general if you heat up while sitting in traffic or in a drive thru in you case it is an air flow issue i.e. bad fan clutch no shroud stuff like that.

If it heats up while driving its a coolant flow issue or missing air deflector. My 88 was fine in traffic or while stopped but when you would get going down the road at 55 or 60 it would slowly heat up. The stock radiator was clogged up. Flushed the engine and put a new aluminum 2 core in and it stays right at 185* during the summer with the AC on in Florida.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

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Jul 4, 2007

#6

• Jul 4, 2007

• #6

I agree. If it cools at speed but soaks when you're idle, the clutch is likely. A clutch on the outs will often seep silicone around the hub (thermal clutches use silicone as a viscous coupling, modulated via a bi-metallic spring).

Check your fan blade for cracks while in there - replace as necessary (FAL makes a metal replacement blade which works very well).

Good luck.

 

M

MattTheBat83

New Member

Mar 31, 2006

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Jul 4, 2007

#7

• Jul 4, 2007

• #7

i bought the police interceptor fan clutch should i replace the fan with one of those flexlite fans or is it not worth it?

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

43,147

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Jul 4, 2007

#8

• Jul 4, 2007

• #8

I beleive the PI clutch only works with the stock fan. The flex fans directly bolt to the water pump if i recall correctly

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Nov 29, 1999

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Jul 4, 2007

#9

• Jul 4, 2007

• #9

If the flexalite fan blade question was for me, you certainly could do that. FWIW, I think Mike and I are talking about different items. He is talkin about a flex fan (most folks run one with a spacer in lieu of a clutch) and I'm talking about a replacement fan blade (but it's metal, which is neat to me). The one I use accepts a fan clutch just like the stocker.

If your fan blade has cracks (the OEM blade was known for them - really check it over because you dont want that POS breaking at 5K RPM), then I think the new fan blade is 35 bucks well spent.

We should add: If you need a fan clutch and fan blade (or even just the clutch - a HD or SSP version is upwards of 100 bucks), consider an E-fan and 3G alt. YOu can get both for 100 bucks or so (or less) at a J/Y. It is a nice upgrade, though I'm actually a proponent of mech fans for cars that dont tach up much. If you like to tinker, it's a fun upgrade.

Good luck.

 

M

MattTheBat83

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Mar 31, 2006

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Jul 6, 2007

#10

• Jul 6, 2007

• #10

took a look at the fan and yea its got some serious cracks in it. can anyone recommend what kind of blade to get its going to be used with a police clutch

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Jul 6, 2007

#11

• Jul 6, 2007

• #11

MattTheBat83 said:

took a look at the fan and yea its got some serious cracks in it. can anyone recommend what kind of blade to get its going to be used with a police clutch

Click to expand...

In case it helps:

I'd need to doublecheck my paperwork but I think the Flexalite 5918 is what I used (it's FLX-5918 on Summit).

 

M

MattTheBat83

New Member

Mar 31, 2006

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Jul 7, 2007

#12

• Jul 7, 2007

• #12

so i bought the police interceptor clutchi even bought a ne fan blade cause there was a big crack in the old one... temp is still high... coolant is full so i bought a new thermostat. the car runs at about 200 w/ a 180 but if it sits it gets to about 250 any ideas would help

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mod Dude

Feb 18, 2001

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Jul 7, 2007

#13

• Jul 7, 2007

• #13

What's the condition of the radiator?? Is it fairly new? Are the fins bent?

What about the coolant? Is it fresh? 50/50 mix or 75/25?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Jul 8, 2007

#14

• Jul 8, 2007

• #14

And if you happen to know, if you hold the RPM's at 1500-1800, does it cool down or get hotter?

Unless your radiator is shot (which would have shown you hot operating temps across the board), your new fan clutch and fan should be doing well. Was the fan installed facing the correct direction (pulling air rather than trying to push it forward)?

 

Black1987Stang

Active Member

Aug 22, 2004

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Jersey Shore

Jul 8, 2007

#15

• Jul 8, 2007

• #15

I have a stock water pump, bone stock radiator, clutch (locked up), fan, with a 195 thermostat, the highest I've seen with the engine running is 205-208degrees. Although the locked up clutch might be sucking in a little more air than normal, I also have underdrive pullies which will slow down the speed a little. I have a Taurus 2 speed electric fan im waithing to put on, just need a 130 alternator, I have a spare taurus fan in my classifieds if you're interested. I would put on an electric, youll have better mpg and more power (much less rotating mass on the crank)