TobyGaff said:I want to cut my front coils to improve the stance of my 65. I would like to drop it an inch to an inch and a half. Does anyone have any suggestions on how much coil to cut so that I don't have to take these things in and out several times?
dodgestang said:Everyone has made suggestions without asking a clarifying question.
Do you have the old stock coils in there now, or have you replaced them already?
For most people when they pull out the old 35yr springs and replace them with the 1 inch drop springs they discover their car to be sitting at the same height and in some cases higher than it was before. Old springs sag with age and the car sits lower because of it.
So, if you have original springs, then FIRST, you want to get drop springs. You do not want to cut and re-use 35 yr old springs...SECOND after installing springs every single time drive around the block to let them settle then look at stance.
After you have done this, or if you already have new springs in your car cutting the springs should be done 1/4 coil at a time...you can always take more off, but you can't put it back on once you cut it off. As a point of note, if you have drop springs now taking the springs out is easy, you don't even need a spring compressor and if you have stock hiehgt new springs, once you start cutting them you will also be able to pop them in and out with a compressor after you have lopped off a little. This whole project should only take an Afternoon and that is including 4-5 repetitions and cutting if you REAALY NEED TO get that low...which you most likely won't.
Also note, cutting the springs will increase your spring rate resulting in a firmer ride....if its firm now, you will approach harsh ride charateristics quickly. I have made this recommendation before that if you are running 620 drop springs and want to start cutting them, you might consider buying a softer spring, installing it to see height, and then cutting to suit....since each cut will increase the spring rate.
To cut the springs, take both out of the car, sit them next to each other and mark them at the smae time so you can be sure that you are removing the same amount from each spring other wise one side will sit lower than the other and you will have different spring rates from side to side.
Mark your springs, and cut them with a cut off wheel...do not use a torch this will 'hurt' the springs.
68GEETEE said:The point is not about new or old springs, the point is cutting coils is old school technology and is unnecessary with the quality parts available that will achieve the goal the first time out of the box, no guessing games.
Good point, you can't accurately set the ride height until everything is on the car. Another trick is to weight the car with the weight of any passengers regularly carried. Early Mustangs are very softly sprung and 300lbs of passenger (that is passenger and driver) weight makes a height difference of nearly an inch on my car. Set your car too low with no weight inside and you might find it riding on the bumpstops when it comes time to actually drive it. A trick used by pro builders is to fabricate something to take the place of the springs that is adjustable when trying to get an idea of what looks good to you. For instance, make up a solid bar with a piece of pipe slid over it and holes drilled every half inch and a pin place through the holes. Then you can mount this jig in where the spring would go and try various heights until you get it to look like you want. Then measure the fender height, install your springs and you'll at least have a "target" to try for if you decide you need to cut your springs. Yes, it is a lot of work, but the results are well worth it. Before I stripped my car for paint, I dropped it, added the wheels and tires I wanted, and drove it almost daily for nearly a year. I was amazed at how many times I looked out the window of the shop I work at to see someone stopped to look at the car. I mean the thing was not perfect at all! It had faded paint (and a mis-matched repair on one side), ripped driver's seat, rusty bumpers, etc. and people would gawk at it like it was the nicest car in the lot! I attribute that solely to wheel and tire size and stance. Get that right and all else is forgiven, get it wrong and all the paint and chrome in the world won't matter.67GTA-FB429 said:WOW. You go Zoo.
Toby: You should wait to do anything with you suspension until you have your engine back in the car. That way it will be loaded down. The engine weight will do funny things the springs. I know having gone from a 289 to a 429, and clamped down sporings to supported springs. The 620s are going to work for me, but I took my time deciding. Take your time and do one project at a time.
67GTA-FB429 said:WOW. You go Zoo.
Toby: You should wait to do anything with you suspension until you have your engine back in the car. That way it will be loaded down. The engine weight will do funny things the springs. I know having gone from a 289 to a 429, and clamped down sporings to supported springs. The 620s are going to work for me, but I took my time deciding. Take your time and do one project at a time.
67GTA-FB429 said:not to beat the dead horse...but I just finished putting in new 620 drop coils, and my front end is approximately the same height as when I started.
The new 5leaf rear mid-eye springs have put the back a little too low, but I think the right rim-tire combo will fix things.
67GTA-FB429 said:not to beat the dead horse...but I just finished putting in new 620 drop coils, and my front end is approximately the same height as when I started.
The new 5leaf rear mid-eye springs have put the back a little too low, but I think the right rim-tire combo will fix things.
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