Hi Rocky,
John
Please note the witness marks with my existing 6.650 rods. The sweep is below 0.03 . if I use my adj checker to try and center the sweep the width gets exponentially wider upwards of 0.10 when centered on the valve stem. As I have already ran leakdown test and compression which both came out good I have decided my lean issue is not pushrod related. Not to say the sweep should not be centered more but the geometry looks much better with the existing rods and obviously that should be revisited however my priority at this point is to track down the misfire and low vacuum issue. With the stock rods you can see that even at max lift the rocker arms are barely 90* to the valve. Perhaps the rocker arms need to be swapped out for a different brand but who could tell which brand would be more favorable.. Keeping in mind the miss exists equally in open and closed loop. all of the ignition components worked fine before the HCI swap so I lean towards that not being related. Im back to the vacuum leak theory but even all of the spark plugs look fine in reading the electrodes. Im wondering would it be ok to install the stock pushrods and fire it up for like a minute or two just to rule out valves being hung open. Even though the stockers are not hardened would running them for a minute cause metallic contamination ?
Hi Rocky,
I believe some of your running conditions are caused by Valve-train, but not all. Likely a simple oversight. However, had you not pulled the Valvetrain apart, it would’ve come apart itself. This was a good catch.
That in mind, a few questions, then correct that & move on.
You’re running the stock MAF, and #19 injectors which are also stock, OE, nothing aftermarkett- correct?
Cylinders were honed with deck plates, Heads were not disassembled to check other tolerances, but Compression is good, did you do a leak down test?
Fuel pressure drop quick when prime stops, engine shut down?
Was the Block Decked?
Closed Valve loads are 120Lbs@ seat, Spring pressures at full Valve lift are unknown,
#2 Spring was found unseated(Intake/Exhaust?)
. Geometry was far off, Valve runout is unknown, valve guides to Valve clearance is unknown. Runtime was 2.5 Hrs.(+/-).
Valve Spring tolerances in relation to each other are unknown.
Running a Stock Oil pump and pump drive?
I believe your running conditions are at least partially why the motor ran as it did, and partially why power was limited.
Think that’s a result of the motor requiring to be built more equally.
If Stock Intake and exhaust restrictions are not removed, it will not quite reap the full benefits of power adders as it should.
Forced induction App’s work great when bolting up and tuning with a stock setup as the mixture is Compressed and more potent an air/fuel mixture is Programmed to be rammed in/out of the motor.
NA Motors require free flow through both the Intake and Exhaust to realize gains of the components added. It’s done internally, street legal bolt-in’s will wake it up, once it runs good, then consider tuning. TF 170’s, and that Cam, Shortys, good Catted exhaust- they run very well with no tune, I’d jump to 24lb injectors & a good MAF when the time is right.
Have a Pic of a Plug after you’ve driven it? Does it Ping, aHow old is the Fuel in the Tank?
once it can breathe, it’ll wake right up once the issues are located- it may be something as simple as running through the Checklist- Alternator Output 13.4-13.9V, Battery a solid 12VDC+ when sitting?. Seems like it’ll be a small oversight, EEC’s not throwing CEL’s, which is a clue- limited things don’t throw a Code. Any Codes at all, you mentioned one..what is it?
The Valvetrain functioning poorly will not help out any power gains, once correct, it’ll run better for sure.
Fuel pressure at idle doesn’t mean it will support more volume under the same pressure when needed. Regulator?
A Wideband will certainly help, you’ll likely want one pretty soon, Mech. Oil Pressure gauge, etc. a simple fuel test kit will prove fuel Volume remains strong during high demand.
If valve to stem runout is off, , establishing proper Rocker preload placement becomes very difficult.. Machining errors in head’s, i.e. installed Valve and/or Installed Spring heights^
I’m confused, didn’t you already have decent roller tip to valve stem alignment?
Obtaining good a reasonably centered Roller Rocker tip less than 0.080 in width should not be giving you so much hassle..
Yes, you can TEMPORARILy run non hardened pushrods with Guideplates, but IMO do not RUN the Motor, only rotate the motor by hand. Can pull the Guideplates & run hardened Washers temporarily & use your other Pushrods...
ANY excess heat or Guideplates rubbing is not in the best interest of any Motor..
Ive set up quite a few of these, found one good illustrated Video that’s correct, there’s SO many ridiculous ones, lol (maybe it’s how I interpret them, IDK.)
incorrect.This is easy to follow, utilizing the 1/2 lift principle).
Check out this one, it’s how I do it, best way to establish geometry in a case such as yours is starting from a simple point, not beginning with seeking Pushrod length, it appears as you run through it. just shows as you move on..
Very easy to get it right ...
Tools you’ll need:
A small tipped permanent sharpie(Black)
A piece ofvKeystock, 8” long. 1/8”-1/2”
Carb cleaner, or Acetone.
A Clean Rag.
Dial Calipers(0–6”). Depth Mic’s if you own.
A Straightedge, I.e. a 2’ long piece of clean 1/4” x 1” flat stock, a long level, aluminum Ruler.
6” steel scale (if you have one).
.
PROCESS...
This test will give you the best Pushrod length, once you verify installed Valve Stem height, it’s best to install the Checker Springs to Number1 Cylinder’s Intake and Exhaust Valves.Round off to the closest length.....
OVERVIEW, NOTES TO REFERENCE..
Your CamCard is VERY useful, don’t lose it. All Cam spec’s are listed, and other data can be found using basic Math, and a crucial reference when you’re Degreeing a Cam in.
The OBJECT is to be certain the fine line you Drew on the #1 Cylinder’s Rocker is perpendicular to the Valve Stem sitting in the Head (Meaning the Rocker is at a 90 Degrees angle to the line drawn on the rocker)in relation)
Set the #1 Cylinder at TDC by rotating the motors bolt on the Balancer, make sure it’s on the Combustion stroke (BOTH Valves CLOSED, on the base circle, or “Heel” of the Cam, zero Cam Lift).
Remove ALL the Rockers and Pushrods on the Passenger side engine bank, set them aside.
Lay the straightedge across the tops of the Valve Stems and verify they are all equal in height, measure with a feeler gauge if any gaps are present, higher or lower...list your findings down on your pad. They
should all be exactly the same height.Continue with the test, regardless.
Measure the heights of Rocker Studs, if not fully seated Studs can flex and snap, or pull out under threads heavily loaded..
Pull-clean-line and Chase bottom with a Tap or Die Stud with cutting fluid. Threads in Aluminum will be quickly destroyed if not fully seated and torqued, the correct Compound used.
Clean the Rockers surface with Solvent so free of Oil, etc.- so a marker’s lines will stick.
Mark a Dot on the center of the Rocker’s larger pivot Trunnion and center of the Pin that holds the roller Tip in place, dots together,
Place the Rocker-you marked on the #1 Cylinder stud so you can see it well, closest so seen o of the front of the Motor.
Hold the a small straightedge against the line you drew on the Rocker and twist the adjustable Pushrod until the Valve stem sticking up through the Head and the line you drew on the Rocker are exactly 90 degrees apart from one another. Hold a small scale against the Rockers line and verify the two are at 90 Degrees from each other.
Slowly turn the adjustable pushrod so it’s adjusted to 90 degrees, that pushrod length is now the correct length.
LINK BELOW...
View: https://youtu.be/o5is9BsH5OU
Miscellaneous Notes..
you’ll see Cam LOBE LIFT, and the ROCKER RATIO the Cam is INTENDED TO be USED WITH, E.G.;. 1.6:1, or 1.7:1..ADVERTISED VALVE LIFT IS WHAT NUMBER YOU WANT.,TrickFlow Stage 1 Cam VALVE Lift:.Intake: 0.490, Exhaust: 0.510.
You can also use the LOBE LIFT, and the ROCKER RATIO to find Advertised VALVE lift, simply MULTIPLY. LOBE LIFT/ROCKER RATIO= VALVEVLIFT. 0.510 x 1.6 = 0.3187 (0.319) LOBE LIFT.
Or, you can see what CHANGE in VALVE LIFT you’ll have using a different ROCKER RATIO.
A Cam with an ADVERTISED VALVE LIFT OF 0.550 USING THE CAMCARDS STANDARD FORD Ratio listed as 1.6 can be changed to a 1.7 ROCKER RATIO INCREASES VALVE LIFT, (DURATION is NOT AFFECTED by altering ROCKER Ratio)..
DIVIDE ADVERTISED VALVE LIFT (0.550)
by the CAM Card’s (1.6) RATIO...... 0.550/1.6= 343.7(0.344, which is LOBE LIFT).
Multiply by (1.7)...the new Rocker Ratio, 0.344 x 1.7= 0.5848 (0.585).
OLD Lift=0.550, NEW Lift= 0.585 - 0.550 =.035 VALVE LIFT GAINED by running1.7:1 Ratio Rockers, VS. 1.6:1 Ratio Rockers.The OBJECT is to make sure your line should be perpendicular to your Valve Stem (Meaning 90 Degrees in relation),
Good luck
-John
PS,
RE: Rockers of this Street/mild Strip level..
TrickFlow was the lowest Profile, cut the Studs down/Adjusters & Studmount fits under a Stock Cover on GT40’sbest design IMO. Scorpions are vey good, but Roller tip is massive VS the others, Proforms, (HEARD- NOT SEEN)
LargeTrunnions coming apart on mild Cams, one sucked through the screen &through the pump drive twisted like a pretzel, Ford Comps are good Street Rockers.
Prefer Lunati’s.