Cylinder bore prep???

[TurboFlush]

ummm my mind is gone for some reason.

when preparing aengine cylinder for new piston rings and you want to get the cross hatch.
which do you use?
A: CYLINDER GLAZE BREAKER
or
B: CYLINDER HONE

??

there is no ridge in the cylinders but I do need to bring back the cross hatches.

regards,
TF

 

[TurboFlush]

no help?

ok fine be that way!

 

[freakintiger]

Isn't it a cylinder(ball)hone? You attach it to a drill,etc..

 

[140cilx]

I just get it perfectly clean, then use a hone lightly, then clean the fresh honed cylinders w/ oil until no more black residue collects on the rag.

 

[TurboFlush]

so I should just buy a cylinder Hone then?

I know how to use the tool (they are the same, just diff stones), just cant remember what and when each one is to be used. I am guessing a Glaze breaker would be on a higher mileage motor that has a "glaze" on it. the hone would be to then smooth it back out and leave just a light cross hatch.

does this sound right?

When motor work is so expensive, you learn to do it yourself reall fast.


I want that McLaren!!

 

[Stinger]

Don't get a ball hone...use a rigid stone hone.

 

[TurboFlush]

Don't get a ball hone...use a rigid stone hone.

I will have to order one. but yah, rigid stone!

 

[Ray III]

I would recommend letting a machine shop do it with a torque plate for optimum ring sealing. I did my own hone job on one of my car engines (just a re-ring) and it burns a quart every 1000 miles cause it wasn't torque plate honed.

 

[TurboFlush]

you only need a torque plate if you are boring it out.
All I am trying to do is return some sort of cross hatch pattern for oil sealing. Only scratch the surface.

I will see how much they want though.

 

[Mike SVOR]

If you are only trying to scratch the surface to restore cross-hatch, a ball style hone is what you want.
If you are trying to properly fit a piston into a new bore by determining it's piston to wall clearance, use a straight bar style hone.

 

[Ray III]

ok I would use a rigid hone when milling off a couple thousandths from cylinder wall either to top off the boring process, or to attempt to return a partially worn bore to perfectly cylindrical.

To scratch the surface up WITHOUT altering its shape, the ball hone is more appropriate.

I stand by my original statement of not using a rigid hone without a torque plate, because it WILL disturb the shape even if only a small mount. My dad and I have done a couple motors with just re-ring and rigid hone, and it just doesn't work out to a good seal.

 

[140cilx]

strange, alway's has for me...