wiski
Member
... but, but, but, its so small, and seemingly useless! Mine was ripped off in a thankfully not-so-tragic, tragic morning "incident". I'll order one right away.
Dcc installed..up and running
- Thread starter DMAN302
- Start date
BDASPNY
Member
1993SSP said:
i'd like to know this as well. i getting ready to install a alum rad ,dual elec fans and the dcc .
As off as the stock gauge is your not going to get reliable info that you could/should base anything on. My stocker read mid way when infact I was pushing 210 and my oil pressure gauge was 1/4 mark when infact I was JUST at 10 psi. First job prior to new motor was purchase of pillar pod and autometers.
I'd agree with Derek all the way around.
The little air dam is indeed surprisingly important (it deflects a little air up in-front of the radiator, which is enhanced with the low pressure area created behind the coil). This is important for driving at speed. Most folks dont notice the difference until temps get over 90*F (Every Spring and Summer, when the first hot spell hits, is when people start reinstalling the air dams).
My stock temp gauge didnt move much from a real reading of 180-220*F so I also wouldn't care to interpolate or relate what it read.
You guys did great installs on all your fans.
The little air dam is indeed surprisingly important (it deflects a little air up in-front of the radiator, which is enhanced with the low pressure area created behind the coil). This is important for driving at speed. Most folks dont notice the difference until temps get over 90*F (Every Spring and Summer, when the first hot spell hits, is when people start reinstalling the air dams).
My stock temp gauge didnt move much from a real reading of 180-220*F so I also wouldn't care to interpolate or relate what it read.
You guys did great installs on all your fans.
wiski
Member
For those of you who use after-market gauges:
I'm looking @ AutoMeter gauges and I'm a bit stumped. I've notice there are both electric and mechanical gauges. Which one should I consider and why?
--Jonathan
I'm looking @ AutoMeter gauges and I'm a bit stumped. I've notice there are both electric and mechanical gauges. Which one should I consider and why?
--Jonathan
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
I also went electric when I made the switch. I have a huge thread somewhere about my install of the gauges.
I went with short sweep electric gauges from autometer and they worked great for my 'drive to work and back' car.
I went with short sweep electric gauges from autometer and they worked great for my 'drive to work and back' car.
wiski
Member
Phase 1
So, I have a new AutoMeter mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauge. I also have my new DC controller and Mark VIII fan. Yesterday I installed the water temp gauge and my car for a little spin. I found that she heated up quickly and with out much effort I had her running @ around 200 degrees. I took a moderate run up a long (~1 mile) but low grade hill @ 80 in 4th gear (@ around 3k RPM). Quickly my temperature read past the 240 my gauge reads to what I estimated to be ~ 260. I had no place to turn around until I got to the other side of the hill, but as soon as I hit the downgrade I began to coast. The car cooled off to around 230 and I headed back home quickly (taking it easy the whole way). When I got home I ran the car for about 15 minutes with a 24" fan blowing directly into the radiator. The temp dropped from ~ 240 to 210 but wouldn't drop any further. Anyone know how I havn't blown a head gasket yet??? I worked a bit today on the install of the Mark VIII and the DC controller, but I'm worried about the POS radiator I have. I need something better ... *sigh*
So, I have a new AutoMeter mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauge. I also have my new DC controller and Mark VIII fan. Yesterday I installed the water temp gauge and my car for a little spin. I found that she heated up quickly and with out much effort I had her running @ around 200 degrees. I took a moderate run up a long (~1 mile) but low grade hill @ 80 in 4th gear (@ around 3k RPM). Quickly my temperature read past the 240 my gauge reads to what I estimated to be ~ 260. I had no place to turn around until I got to the other side of the hill, but as soon as I hit the downgrade I began to coast. The car cooled off to around 230 and I headed back home quickly (taking it easy the whole way). When I got home I ran the car for about 15 minutes with a 24" fan blowing directly into the radiator. The temp dropped from ~ 240 to 210 but wouldn't drop any further. Anyone know how I havn't blown a head gasket yet??? I worked a bit today on the install of the Mark VIII and the DC controller, but I'm worried about the POS radiator I have. I need something better ... *sigh*
I run a two core brass from the auto parts store 90$, it's been more than enough to handle anything this summer has thrown at it...and it's been HOT at times.
With regard to the idle temperature, that's typically not a radiator problem unless it's in real bad shape. Disconnect the AC input to the controller, temporarily connect it to 12V, and let the car idle. Once it gets to temperature, touch the drivers side tank, it’ll probably be cold. If it is, the thermostat is still closed. If the temperature at this point reads higher than the thermostat rating, it’s either a gauge or thermostat problem. If it’s hot, as well as the air coming out of the fan, it’s probably a head gasket or tuning problem, if the tank is hot, but the air is cool, it’s a radiator problem
With regard to the freeway driving, it could be the radiator, but if you’re missing the lower air dam, which is often the case, it’ll also overheat at higher speeds. The clutch fan will flow about 7,000 cfm @ 3,000 rpm and will cool the car without the air dam, while even the m8 electric fan won’t
With regard to the freeway driving, it could be the radiator, but if you’re missing the lower air dam, which is often the case, it’ll also overheat at higher speeds. The clutch fan will flow about 7,000 cfm @ 3,000 rpm and will cool the car without the air dam, while even the m8 electric fan won’t
90NotchBack
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