Dcc installed..up and running

wiski

Member

Jun 24, 2003

68

0

6

Pittsburg, CA

Aug 1, 2006

#41

• Aug 1, 2006

• #41

... but, but, but, its so small, and seemingly useless! Mine was ripped off in a thankfully not-so-tragic, tragic morning "incident". I'll order one right away.

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Aug 1, 2006

#42

• Aug 1, 2006

• #42

surprisingly important pc for driving..I'd definately order it.

 

1993SSP

Founding Member

Sep 5, 2001

1,194

0

37

Ky

Aug 1, 2006

#43

• Aug 1, 2006

• #43

those of you with stock temp gauge, where does your needle stay with the DCC controller???

 

BDASPNY

Member

Jan 3, 2006

103

0

19

HAMPTON ROADS

Aug 1, 2006

#44

• Aug 1, 2006

• #44

1993SSP said:

those of you with stock temp gauge, where does your needle stay with the DCC controller???

Click to expand...

i'd like to know this as well. i getting ready to install a alum rad ,dual elec fans and the dcc .

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Aug 1, 2006

#45

• Aug 1, 2006

• #45

As off as the stock gauge is your not going to get reliable info that you could/should base anything on. My stocker read mid way when infact I was pushing 210 and my oil pressure gauge was 1/4 mark when infact I was JUST at 10 psi. First job prior to new motor was purchase of pillar pod and autometers.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Aug 1, 2006

#46

• Aug 1, 2006

• #46

I'd agree with Derek all the way around.

The little air dam is indeed surprisingly important (it deflects a little air up in-front of the radiator, which is enhanced with the low pressure area created behind the coil). This is important for driving at speed. Most folks dont notice the difference until temps get over 90*F (Every Spring and Summer, when the first hot spell hits, is when people start reinstalling the air dams).

My stock temp gauge didnt move much from a real reading of 180-220*F so I also wouldn't care to interpolate or relate what it read.

You guys did great installs on all your fans.

 

S

Sicarius428

Active Member

Jan 6, 2004

2,085

5

49

Aug 2, 2006

#47

• Aug 2, 2006

• #47

When my autometer reads 180 my stock gauge is inbetween the A and L on NORMAL. Nice work on the fans. They look factory.
Kevin

 

wiski

Member

Jun 24, 2003

68

0

6

Pittsburg, CA

Aug 2, 2006

#48

• Aug 2, 2006

• #48

For those of you who use after-market gauges:

I'm looking @ AutoMeter gauges and I'm a bit stumped. I've notice there are both electric and mechanical gauges. Which one should I consider and why?


--Jonathan

 

S

Sicarius428

Active Member

Jan 6, 2004

2,085

5

49

Aug 2, 2006

#49

• Aug 2, 2006

• #49

Mechanical is more accurate but electrical is easier to install IMO. I don't have much room to be routing tubes under the dash and in the engine compartment so I went electrical. For my 90 not being a race car I can live with a little inaccuracy if at all any.
Kevin

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

Oct 17, 2004

1,796

3

0

Woodward Ave.

Aug 2, 2006

#50

• Aug 2, 2006

• #50

I also went electric when I made the switch. I have a huge thread somewhere about my install of the gauges.

I went with short sweep electric gauges from autometer and they worked great for my 'drive to work and back' car.

 

wiski

Member

Jun 24, 2003

68

0

6

Pittsburg, CA

Sep 3, 2006

#51

• Sep 3, 2006

• #51

Phase 1

So, I have a new AutoMeter mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauge. I also have my new DC controller and Mark VIII fan. Yesterday I installed the water temp gauge and my car for a little spin. I found that she heated up quickly and with out much effort I had her running @ around 200 degrees. I took a moderate run up a long (~1 mile) but low grade hill @ 80 in 4th gear (@ around 3k RPM). Quickly my temperature read past the 240 my gauge reads to what I estimated to be ~ 260. I had no place to turn around until I got to the other side of the hill, but as soon as I hit the downgrade I began to coast. The car cooled off to around 230 and I headed back home quickly (taking it easy the whole way). When I got home I ran the car for about 15 minutes with a 24" fan blowing directly into the radiator. The temp dropped from ~ 240 to 210 but wouldn't drop any further. Anyone know how I havn't blown a head gasket yet??? I worked a bit today on the install of the Mark VIII and the DC controller, but I'm worried about the POS radiator I have. I need something better ... *sigh*

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Sep 3, 2006

#52

• Sep 3, 2006

• #52

I run a two core brass from the auto parts store 90$, it's been more than enough to handle anything this summer has thrown at it...and it's been HOT at times.

 

B

baskin

Member

Nov 1, 2003

152

0

17

Sep 3, 2006

#53

• Sep 3, 2006

• #53

With regard to the idle temperature, that's typically not a radiator problem unless it's in real bad shape. Disconnect the AC input to the controller, temporarily connect it to 12V, and let the car idle. Once it gets to temperature, touch the drivers side tank, it’ll probably be cold. If it is, the thermostat is still closed. If the temperature at this point reads higher than the thermostat rating, it’s either a gauge or thermostat problem. If it’s hot, as well as the air coming out of the fan, it’s probably a head gasket or tuning problem, if the tank is hot, but the air is cool, it’s a radiator problem

With regard to the freeway driving, it could be the radiator, but if you’re missing the lower air dam, which is often the case, it’ll also overheat at higher speeds. The clutch fan will flow about 7,000 cfm @ 3,000 rpm and will cool the car without the air dam, while even the m8 electric fan won’t

 

90NotchBack

New Member

Feb 15, 2004

306

2

0

Loxahatchee/Pembroke Pines, FL

Sep 3, 2006

#54

• Sep 3, 2006

• #54