So I replaced the stock upper and lower intake with an Explorer upper/lower with the EGR port that I tapped for the ACT in #5 and the EGR coolant line at the water passage at the passenger back, stock throttle body with a 70MM and EGR plate, stock FPR with a Kirban, stock headers with FMS shorty ceramics,new 195 thermostat and the k&N filter that is on the end of the MAF sitting in the engine with a fenderwell CAI. The only thing left is to install the 95 MAF which didnt come until after the install. I polished up the intake, TB, EGR, fuel rail and a set of stock valve covers and used ss header bolts with allen wrench heads and lock washers. All new felpro gaskets 0n intake-used the felpro Mustang intake gaskets that were tacked to the heads with weatherstrip adhesive so they didnt move and used red rtv around water jackets and at the ends of the front and back rubber gaskets , exhaust - put copper rtv on both sides on both sides of the gasket as an extra precaution, and the explorer upper to lower intake , used the premium rubber valve cover gaskets to replace the leaking crappy stock cork valve cover gaskets, and new injector o rings.
I sprayed down all the header and collector bolts every day for a week with PB blaster and not one snapped. I found it very odd that every valve cover bolt was barely on snug- hence the leak, and the header bolts came off with almost no need to strong arm them. Hardest part of the whole job was getting all the damn vacuum lines back on- three of the stupid hard lines snapped and patched them with rubber hose and shrink wrap- and the back passenger header bolts. Very tight with the Thermactor tubes to the cats still on. I was going to put on an H Pipe but ran out of time and frankly wondering if its worth it to rip off the smog equipment and cats for another 10 HP. You can hear the headers give off a deeper tone, but the car actually sounds quieter than with the stockers on.
Torqued everything per specs.Set the timing to 10 BTDC with spout out, the FP to 42 with vacuum hose off . The car idles at 750 and runs like a champ. No roaming idle . Took me about 6 hours total with a friend, taking our time to make sure everything was done right. Going to check the header and intake bolts tomorrow again and retorque them even though no exhaust leaks. Overall, felt good to work on a 5.0 again after a 10 year haitus, even though I'm not as young as the last time and Advil is my best friend tonight. I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.
Only two issues that I would appreciate some input on from the group.
1. Before the swap, the car normally ran at the A in normal. After filling back up the cooling system and making sure the stat opened- level in radiator dropped, and also running the heat on high to get the heater core open, the car sat idling for about 5-10 minutes and ran at the A. The drive home was about 40 minutes on the highway and about 5 minutes into the drive the temp gauge went up to about the M. Nothing to get alarmed about but thats about 10-15 degrees hotter. I 've heard the explorer setup runs a little leaner? No leaks anywhere that I can see. Perhaps an air pocket? I reused the same temp sensor from the stock lower that worked fine. I'll check the coolant to see if it needs to be burped some more and refilled and also the oil to make sure there is no intake leak. Like I said, the car runs fine. Maybe disconnect the battery again for the computer to relearn everything?
2. Other issue is the car seems to start a little slower now, almost like kind of a battery that is a little low on voltage. I'll go check the wires at the alt to make sure nothing is grounding.
Any thoughts on these two bugs?
I sprayed down all the header and collector bolts every day for a week with PB blaster and not one snapped. I found it very odd that every valve cover bolt was barely on snug- hence the leak, and the header bolts came off with almost no need to strong arm them. Hardest part of the whole job was getting all the damn vacuum lines back on- three of the stupid hard lines snapped and patched them with rubber hose and shrink wrap- and the back passenger header bolts. Very tight with the Thermactor tubes to the cats still on. I was going to put on an H Pipe but ran out of time and frankly wondering if its worth it to rip off the smog equipment and cats for another 10 HP. You can hear the headers give off a deeper tone, but the car actually sounds quieter than with the stockers on.
Torqued everything per specs.Set the timing to 10 BTDC with spout out, the FP to 42 with vacuum hose off . The car idles at 750 and runs like a champ. No roaming idle . Took me about 6 hours total with a friend, taking our time to make sure everything was done right. Going to check the header and intake bolts tomorrow again and retorque them even though no exhaust leaks. Overall, felt good to work on a 5.0 again after a 10 year haitus, even though I'm not as young as the last time and Advil is my best friend tonight. I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.
Only two issues that I would appreciate some input on from the group.
1. Before the swap, the car normally ran at the A in normal. After filling back up the cooling system and making sure the stat opened- level in radiator dropped, and also running the heat on high to get the heater core open, the car sat idling for about 5-10 minutes and ran at the A. The drive home was about 40 minutes on the highway and about 5 minutes into the drive the temp gauge went up to about the M. Nothing to get alarmed about but thats about 10-15 degrees hotter. I 've heard the explorer setup runs a little leaner? No leaks anywhere that I can see. Perhaps an air pocket? I reused the same temp sensor from the stock lower that worked fine. I'll check the coolant to see if it needs to be burped some more and refilled and also the oil to make sure there is no intake leak. Like I said, the car runs fine. Maybe disconnect the battery again for the computer to relearn everything?
2. Other issue is the car seems to start a little slower now, almost like kind of a battery that is a little low on voltage. I'll go check the wires at the alt to make sure nothing is grounding.
Any thoughts on these two bugs?
