Digital Immigrant

Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
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Central Texas
#41
I could tell some immediate differences--the AFR was leaner almost all the time. Got a little bit of pinging at max acceleration in 2/3 gear. Idle was wandering quite a bit. I thought the power on acceleration was actually better. I would like to fix the start/cold idle--it tends to stall a couple times unless I press the gas to keep it going and then it goes to high idle after about 20 seconds.
 

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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#42
So this is the final copy i am going to provide, this has the tables rescaled to fit your driving style and the engine range much better. This will help you get the rest of the tuning done easier.

The last little bit is by far the hardest part to tune. Its the last few settings that need to be adjusted. in the Idle/startup fields.
 

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Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#44
Thanks for ALL of the work you've been doing! I've been watching the videos and I'm going to work on it myself tomorrow on my day off and see if I can get it smoothed out. I won't learn this stuff unless I actually do some experimenting and some of the tedious work of tuning. I'm going to do what you did in the closed loop idle video and work through a range of timing to see where it pulls the most vacuum so I can get a good starting point and go from there. I haven't had time to load the most recent tune, so that will happen tomorrow as well.
 

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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#45
I am currently working on a video detailing exactly how to run the test's.... If you dont do it correctly the test information will be wrong.
when testing the IAC valve lock the timing.
When doing a sweep of the timing lock the valve [warm-up mode] so the car idles at around 1100-1200.

failure to do either will skew the results.
 
Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#49
I know this doesn't quite fit in the tuning category, but thought I would post a couple of places to see if anyone can help. It was running fine with the stock distributor and TFI so I decided to install the EDIS. I already had the Explorer FEAD on the front of the engine and that made it easy to install the EDIS 8 CPS. I completed all the wiring and attempted to start--nothing. Changed the polarity on the VR sensor--nothing. Changed the VR sensor and got some fire but not running. Finally went over the wiring again and decided I had the A/B coil mis-wired, so I swapped those and it started and ran horribly like it is on 4 cylinders. Won't idle. Swapped out the C/D coil today because I broke the connector on the coil. Tried to start and just got some backfires through the intake. I attached my log from it's short run. It is advancing the timing, so it must be getting SAW and PIP which I hope means the VR sensor is working. Got any ideas?I locked the timing at 10 degrees so I could use the timing light and trigger wizard after I get it running.
 

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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#50
Remove the spout to rule out anything ECU related. It should lock timing at 10*

Now let's figure out our cylinder pairs, the pairs on the coil are for an HO motor... what is your engine out of? How did you mount the tone ring? Pics please.
 
Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#52
Thanks for the reply! The tone ring is the stock Explorer ring (OEM)so I trust that it is located correctly on the damper since it came from the factory. My motor is the HO and I've researched the firing order for the Explorer and they are the same. Checked the spark plug wire locations over and over and they are correct. After some further poking around on the internet I've discovered that several people with this conversion on various engines have similar issues and often the solution is to put resistor spark plugs in place of the standard plugs. I'll try pulling the spout tomorrow and I'm also changing the plugs tomorrow.
 

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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#53
All modern spark plugs are resistor type, if your running a standard motorcraft plug or I suggest a autolite 105 your good there.
Do you have the capacitors on the 12v side of the coil connected to ground. They look like a small grey plug.
 
Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#54
Yes the capacitor is in place. It's interesting that only some of the plugs list their resistance in the specifications. Forgot to mention last night that the EMI shielding is in place for the CPS (VR) sensor and all of the other appropriate wiring.
 
Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#55
Pulled the spout plug and no change. Changed spark plugs and no change. Previously checked all grounds for continuity to negative battery terminal and they were good including the shielding on the VR wires. I'm thinking the VR sensor is either defective or getting interference but I'm just guessing.I have to find a way to check some of this stuff without an oscilloscope. The wiring diagram attached is what I used to connect the EDIS and coil packs.
 

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Feb 26, 2015
42
3
8
68
Central Texas
#59
I'm not sure of anything at this point. You can see in the photos that I put a white dot on the connector at pin #1. The diagram says the view is into the wiring harness connector but I'm beginning doubt that and may swap the wires and see what happens. I don't think it can get worse.