Digital Immigrant

Freeman2005 · Jan 29, 2019

I could tell some immediate differences--the AFR was leaner almost all the time. Got a little bit of pinging at max acceleration in 2/3 gear. Idle was wandering quite a bit. I thought the power on acceleration was actually better. I would like to fix the start/cold idle--it tends to stall a couple times unless I press the gas to keep it going and then it goes to high idle after about 20 seconds.

a91what · Jan 29, 2019

So this is the final copy i am going to provide, this has the tables rescaled to fit your driving style and the engine range much better. This will help you get the rest of the tuning done easier.

The last little bit is by far the hardest part to tune. Its the last few settings that need to be adjusted. in the Idle/startup fields.

a91what · Jan 31, 2019

Get me a datalog of startup and i can see what needs to be adjusted.

Freeman2005 · Jan 31, 2019

Thanks for ALL of the work you've been doing! I've been watching the videos and I'm going to work on it myself tomorrow on my day off and see if I can get it smoothed out. I won't learn this stuff unless I actually do some experimenting and some of the tedious work of tuning. I'm going to do what you did in the closed loop idle video and work through a range of timing to see where it pulls the most vacuum so I can get a good starting point and go from there. I haven't had time to load the most recent tune, so that will happen tomorrow as well.

a91what · Jan 31, 2019

I am currently working on a video detailing exactly how to run the test's.... If you dont do it correctly the test information will be wrong.
when testing the IAC valve lock the timing.
When doing a sweep of the timing lock the valve [warm-up mode] so the car idles at around 1100-1200.

failure to do either will skew the results.

Freeman2005 · Jan 31, 2019

I figured I would have to lock the timing, but didn't think about the IAC. Thanks much!

Freeman2005 · Feb 3, 2019

This is what the truck gets used for when I'm relaxing: 280 lb. feral hog I shot Saturday night.

stanglx2002 · Feb 3, 2019

He's a big pig yep yep yep

Freeman2005 · Feb 18, 2019

I know this doesn't quite fit in the tuning category, but thought I would post a couple of places to see if anyone can help. It was running fine with the stock distributor and TFI so I decided to install the EDIS. I already had the Explorer FEAD on the front of the engine and that made it easy to install the EDIS 8 CPS. I completed all the wiring and attempted to start--nothing. Changed the polarity on the VR sensor--nothing. Changed the VR sensor and got some fire but not running. Finally went over the wiring again and decided I had the A/B coil mis-wired, so I swapped those and it started and ran horribly like it is on 4 cylinders. Won't idle. Swapped out the C/D coil today because I broke the connector on the coil. Tried to start and just got some backfires through the intake. I attached my log from it's short run. It is advancing the timing, so it must be getting SAW and PIP which I hope means the VR sensor is working. Got any ideas?I locked the timing at 10 degrees so I could use the timing light and trigger wizard after I get it running.

a91what · Feb 18, 2019

Remove the spout to rule out anything ECU related. It should lock timing at 10*

Now let's figure out our cylinder pairs, the pairs on the coil are for an HO motor... what is your engine out of? How did you mount the tone ring? Pics please.

a91what · Feb 18, 2019

Oh and this kind of stuff is exactly what this area is for.

Freeman2005 · Feb 18, 2019

Thanks for the reply! The tone ring is the stock Explorer ring (OEM)so I trust that it is located correctly on the damper since it came from the factory. My motor is the HO and I've researched the firing order for the Explorer and they are the same. Checked the spark plug wire locations over and over and they are correct. After some further poking around on the internet I've discovered that several people with this conversion on various engines have similar issues and often the solution is to put resistor spark plugs in place of the standard plugs. I'll try pulling the spout tomorrow and I'm also changing the plugs tomorrow.

a91what · Feb 18, 2019

All modern spark plugs are resistor type, if your running a standard motorcraft plug or I suggest a autolite 105 your good there.
Do you have the capacitors on the 12v side of the coil connected to ground. They look like a small grey plug.

Freeman2005 · Feb 19, 2019

Yes the capacitor is in place. It's interesting that only some of the plugs list their resistance in the specifications. Forgot to mention last night that the EMI shielding is in place for the CPS (VR) sensor and all of the other appropriate wiring.

Freeman2005 · Feb 20, 2019

Pulled the spout plug and no change. Changed spark plugs and no change. Previously checked all grounds for continuity to negative battery terminal and they were good including the shielding on the VR wires. I'm thinking the VR sensor is either defective or getting interference but I'm just guessing.I have to find a way to check some of this stuff without an oscilloscope. The wiring diagram attached is what I used to connect the EDIS and coil packs.

a91what · Feb 20, 2019

I do not see the capacitors installed in that picture...

Freeman2005 · Feb 20, 2019

On the left upper corner of the left coil--the gray connector is out of sight under the plug wires.

a91what · Feb 20, 2019

Are you certain coil pairs c/d are not mixed up?

Freeman2005 · Feb 20, 2019

I'm not sure of anything at this point. You can see in the photos that I put a white dot on the connector at pin #1. The diagram says the view is into the wiring harness connector but I'm beginning doubt that and may swap the wires and see what happens. I don't think it can get worse.

a91what · Feb 20, 2019

I had this same issue when I first put the edis coils on my setup.

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